Rear axle won't come out....D44

[SoCalCruiser]

What is the trick with changing out the bearings? First I couldn't get the nuts off the axle plate. I tried open ended wrenches, bought a set of flaired wrenches. That was a PITA. Once I finally got them off I went to the 'Zone and rented a slide hammer, but I guess it's the wrong kind because there's nothing for the teeth to grab on to.

After 3 days on jack stands and not making any progress, I packed it in. I'm pissed and bummed.

I'm always amazed that the GW is really big, but all the parts have to be so close to each other. Venting.....

What's the trick to this job? I didn't see a write-up in the Tech Lib.

TIA,

Craig

[2ndtimearround]

Craig:

I you have removed the retaining plate (behind the flange witht the lung nuts) correct?

The slide hammer is the correct tool to use. There is a spider looking adapter that you attach to three of the lugs with lug nuts to remove the axle. Ususally takes about 2-3 hits with the slide hammer to pop it free.

It looks like the top piture on this web site:
http://www.mm-inet.com/auto_parts/hub-axle-puller-with-slide-hammer.htm

Lawrence

[SoCalCruiser]

I took off the lug nuts, tire, drum and the 4 nuts that hold on the plate. I took out the bolts to replace (because the factory manual said not to re-use them). The slide hammer I rented had either 2 or 3 claws (depending on the adaptor used) that are supposed to grab on to something, but they wouldn't grab on anything, that I could find. I think the slide hammer I got wouldn't work, but that's the only one they had. I was able to get it to kind of grab and got some good hits, but nothing.

I guess I need to find the right slide hammer.

Craig

[Crazy_Jeepman]

Put the tire back on, hit bottom of tire with sledge hammer, turn hit, turn hit, till it comes off. Be sure its blocked well and you are clear if it should come off the blocks. These bearings are pressed onto the axle but not into the housing, unless run dry of oil causing failure these bearings are just sitting in the housing. I have also put the drum back on with wood against the backing plate and tightend a couple lug nuts down to the drum to pull against the axle. However that will crack the drum or bend the backing plate if the bearing is stuck.

[Stuka]

Your axle flange should have a hole in it, this allows you to get to the bolts that hold the backing plate on with a wratchet and just a open end to hold the head in back. Then stick a 5 pound slide hammer into this hole, and start hammering. If they are factory they will be stuborn. If that does work, use petes suggestion witht he tire being on.

[SoCalCruiser]

I used that hole and tried to grab on the other side with the hooks of the slide hammer, but couldn't get a very good lip to catch on.

I'm going to find the slide hammer that 2ndtimearround suggested because I was going to just switch axles with my '90 instead of getting new bearings right now. I really don't want to go through this same thing again on the '90.

Where can I get that kind of slide hammer? Sears?

Craig

[SoCalCruiser]

Not Sears but Harbor Freight has them, $29.99. I'd rather rent one than buy one.

Craig

[nxcj]

You should be able to find it at Sears. The plate on it looks sort of like the plate on a balancer puller, except that the attachement points are stepped out.

Try the tire advice. It shouldn't be that big of a deal. I can usually pull them with my hands, while bracing my feet against the springs.

Good Luck!

[mountaincrusher]

The other trick i use is to whack the axle dead center with a dead-blow hammer a few times, usually pops them right out, kinda uses the bearing race as a reverse wedge.

[SpruceMoose]

1. jack up waggy.
2. remove wheel nuts.
3. remove wheel/tire.
4. remove brake drum.
5. reinstall brake drum backwards with 3 nuts turned in just a few turns.
6. use brake drum as slide hammer.
7. continue with the rest of the project.

sm.

[Stuka]

Originally posted by SpruceMoose:
1. jack up waggy.
2. remove wheel nuts.
3. remove wheel/tire.
4. remove brake drum.
5. reinstall brake drum backwards with 3 nuts turned in just a few turns.
6. use brake drum as slide hammer.
7. continue with the rest of the project.

sm.You can break a brake drum like that. They are cast iron, and dont hold up well to that kind of stuff.

[SpruceMoose]

oh well, works every time for me! in fact, it was a tip from someone else on here a couple of years ago when i was trying to do my rear bearings.

as always, YMMV!

sm.

[SoCalCruiser]

If it's supposed to be that easy, I'm surprised that it didn't come out with the 10 good hits I got. Can they get rusted in there?

Craig

[SpruceMoose]

sure, if it wasnt getting any lube up to the bearing, and water got in. but usually they come out fairly easily. at least the few times i have had to do mine.

sm.

[jode]

Originally posted by SoCalCruiser:
If it's supposed to be that easy, I'm surprised that it didn't come out with the 10 good hits I got. Can they get rusted in there?
Sure they can get rusted, but (not to step to your skills) it is starting to sound like you forgot to pull a nut or two or something...can you take a digital pic so the masters can confirm that you have everything apart that is supposed to be apart...

I dunno if these are D44 s we are talking about ( I kinda doubt it) but if they are of is the AMC20 is similar, it really shouldnt be THAT hard to get them out (I bet you LOVE hearing that) - I just gave my D44 shafts the tap-tap-tapparoo and they came right on out with some crowbar persuasion - nothing so sophisticated as a slide hammer and it really wasn;t that big a deal... :(

EDIT - hello - I see that you are talking about a D44 (right in the post title)

[ November 23, 2003, 10:50 PM: Message edited by: jode ]

[jode]

I thought those late 80 rigs had AMC 20s? If so, is the 20 a C-clip type?

[SoCalCruiser]

I have a Jeep Service manual and they are D44 axles. I had to triple check.

It says to use a Flanger-type puller on a slide hammer. I was at Pep Boys today and say a harmonic balancer puller that was $10 and it looks like the slots may line up with the lug nuts. The question is, will the threads in the center line up with the threads on the slide hammer.

I did remove the 4 nuts holding on the backing plate and was able to move it around freely, so I know I had everything ready to come off.

I had a pry bar but couldn't find a place to pry with all the break parts still together.

I was going to swap axles with my rust free '90 instead of having new bearings put on this axle for now. I guess I should try the '90 so I can get a better idea of what's going on here.

Craig

[1979 wagoneer]

I just did my rear wheel berrings. The easey way
to get axle out is to take a heavy long chain
wrap it around the flange, give it 2 or 3 hard
yanks, & out it comes! DO NOT STAND IN FRONT OF
IT, IT WILL HIT YOU!!! It's cheap & it works well.

[SoCalCruiser]

I'll try that way. There are 4 nuts and bolts holding the bearing in, right?? Those 4 bolts are holding the seal retainer plate to the axle tube.

I jacked up the '90 I have because I was going to take the axle from that Jeep and put it in the '91, but when I got it raised, that bearing was worse.

What parts are needed for this job? Autozone website says Timken Set 10 ($19.99) and a rear seal (about $7). Is that all?

Craig