D44 SOA Q's: Go for $450 High-steer, or cobble bent drag-link?

[Bob Barry]

Guy on my local board has a pair of flat-top knuckles machined for high-steer arms for sale for $140.

They are bare; no mounting hardware, no ball-joints.

Option 1: I was planning on reaming the stabilizer-hole on my Chevy tie-rod, and hooking in a stock-style drag-link with a slight kink in it to clear the right spring; with my 4" DPA, the bend would be slight. But, I'd still have to buy the tapered reamer, and maybe cut, machine, thread and bend a drag-link to work.

Option 2: Going through Parts Mike, I could get two high-steer arms, mounting hardware and new ball-joints for $288+shipping. Add in the cost of the knuckles, and I'm up to $428, which is partway toward a D60.

Option 3: I get one arm for the passenger-side knuckle, re-use the mounting hardware from the existing driver's-side knuckle on my axle, borrow the ball-joint press from Autozone and press in the good ball-joints from the current knuckles; I'd only be out about $220 for the whole setup. Tie-rod would remain low, but I could get by without a DPA (unless I went with more arch to the springs) and use the stock steering linkage.

Question: Nobody has a machined passenger-side knuckle for less than $140, do they? Or used arms? What does machining that flat-top cost? My current passenger-side knuckle is NOT a flat-top, so I'd have to find a core to machine, and they don't seem too common in these rusty junkyards around here.

I know that the second I invest nearly $500 into this axle, I'll come across the D60 front that I'm really hoping for; I'm not only cheap, but I'm looking to upgrade ASAP, so I don't want to make a heavy investment into this D44.

What's your opinions on the three choices I outline above?

[64Trvlr]

Sounds like you need to wait and upgrade to a D60.
In my opinion option (1) shouldn't even be considered, once you heat and bend the drag link it is an accident waiting to happen at the worst possible time.
Have you been looking on the Pirate sale board for parts? I got a pair already machined for $75.00 including shipping.
:cool:

[Bob Barry]

I wasn't going to heat the rod; was considering a cold-bend in a press.

But in any case, the PBB doesn't list any better deals that the one I'm considering.

I can't wait until a magical D60 front axle appears; it could be years before one becomes available around here for a decent price (there is not much of a 4x4 market up here, and parts-yards don't carry a lot of the older stuff; i.e. things are scrapped after 8 years as a matter of policy).

I'm leaning toward option #3. Lowest initial investment to get me rolling again.

[River Beast]

Bob.. I would tell you to wait for the 60... trust me.... I am now on my 2nd set of axles and high steer setup....why do it twice....like I did... if you know in the future you will get a 60, then wait and do the high steer on the 60.

If not.... there is a pair of flattops on EBAY right now... saw them yesterday... just do the pass side flattop and high steer it leaving the main tierod under the springs

[olin18]

Yeah, I check ebay every once and a while and there always seems to be some flat tops on there.
I would also like to know about how much it cost to get a knuckle machined flat, drilled and tapped. How much does a machine shop usally get for that kind of thing?

[The Donzi]

I'm working on the same problem!
I was also thinking about the 6"dpa
to use with the D44. But I don't know
how safe or sturdy it is?

[River Beast]

Mike at www.partsmike.net (http://www.partsmike.net) will do the machining and driling for you if you send him the knuckle.... since he has been doing this for a while.... I feel I would give him the opportunity to help you out... I think he charges like $50-$75 or so, but don't quote me.... I KNOW he will do it RIGHT... I got my 44 stuff from him and it was a GREAT JOB..

[tomd]

Originally posted by The Donzi:
I'm working on the same problem!
I was also thinking about the 6"dpa
to use with the D44. But I don't know
how safe or sturdy it is?Just so you know, a 6" DPA is not cheap, IIRC like $120-160 can't remember for sure.

[Kenall]

well dam RB ur running 38s...no wonder u go thru axles...

bob...u gonna run 36s or 38s?? if not the d44 will hand 33s no prob. iv been that way for 8 yrs on this 77 front d44, and im not talking SUV trails either, anyone that was at ouray can see the scars my Super has from the rocks. (or maybe thats cuz i cant drive:)

when i did my hi steer i got 2 knuckles brand nu
with Bjoints and arms for 700$ from tricounty gear in pomona CA. i ran the OE jeep tie rod between the two knuckles above the springs. (SOA of corse) didnt use a DPA or a custom draglink...

but then im not running 36s or 38s!

[Bob Barry]

Well, I'm going to get the flat-tops, hopefully delivered to my door, for $140. Then I'll get Parts Mike's high-steer arm for $80, and use the parts already on the axle.

No, the D44 is not the ideal axle for the 38's I'll be running, but it will work with what I do. At the very least, it's an 8-lug 3/4-ton front axle, so the housing is beefier. Maybe I'll get both steering arms, so the steering forces are not suffered by the right knuckle itself.

I'm not running it in tough-truck, and the axle-shafts are spindly, but I'll go easy on the loud-pedal and keep some U-joints and spare shafts handy.

[Kenall]

well i was reeding ur site and it said ud like some 35s or 38s but the combo u running right now works great on the trails u frequent...if that still is the case, y fix what aint broke?

i didnt like leaving the OE tie rod below the springs and having only 1 knuckle xmit all the steering force to the tie rod.

if u put the tie/draglink on top of the springs u can save $$$ by using the OE stuff.

[Bob Barry]

Originally posted by Kenall:
well i was reeding ur site and it said ud like some 35s or 38s but the combo u running right now works great on the trails u frequent...if that still is the case, y fix what aint broke?Well, that's just the thing; it is kind of broke. The front output shaft on my QT seems to be losing its splines, and on a lot of the trails I've been dragging my belly. So, I envisioned moving up to 37"-38" tires and a gear-driven case, with wider/stronger axles to compensate. Rather than go halfway with wide-track Cherokee axles (my first plan), I decided to go bolt-on SOA/rear shackle inversion with 3/4-ton Chevy axles and 4.10 gears, using stock springs.

Originally posted by Kenall:
i didnt like leaving the OE tie rod below the springs and having only 1 knuckle xmit all the steering force to the tie rod.

if u put the tie/draglink on top of the springs u can save $$$ by using the OE stuff.What I order from Parts Mike will determine which way I go. I may go for the two-arm setup, as it's just the cost of another arm and hardware kit.

[Panther]

Hey Bob, IMO 140 is too much for those knuckles.

I can't remember what it cost me, probably an hour labor to have mine done at Brookline Machine. That way you don't have to pay any shipping. Think it was an hour for both sides. It's not rocket science but you do need to resurface the "flat top" area so the arm sits nice and flush.

From the pic on your site, it looks like you already have the driver side flat top and hardware right?

Then you would just need the pass side (sorry if this was stated already). Anyway, I say get you a pass side flat top, get it machined, go to a GM dealer for the hardware and then figure out your linkage. IMO you won't really know your lengths for tie rod drag link until the arms are on.

Also, do you want to go with the raised drag link or both tie rod and drag link?

http://www.shakerbuilt.com/ has the best deal on arms that I have seen, got mine for 100

I don't have a running total for what it cost for the J20 front I did but it was alot in the end.
http://www.panther4x4.com/Panther/Hysteer.html

[Bob Barry]

Originally posted by Panther:
Hey Bob, IMO 140 is too much for those knuckles.

I can't remember what it cost me, probably an hour labor to have mine done at Brookline Machine. That way you don't have to pay any shipping. Think it was an hour for both sides. It's not rocket science but you do need to resurface the "flat top" area so the arm sits nice and flush.

From the pic on your site, it looks like you already have the driver side flat top and hardware right?

Then you would just need the pass side (sorry if this was stated already). Anyway, I say get you a pass side flat top, get it machined, go to a GM dealer for the hardware and then figure out your linkage. IMO you won't really know your lengths for tie rod drag link until the arms are on.

Also, do you want to go with the raised drag link or both tie rod and drag link?

http://www.shakerbuilt.com/ has the best deal on arms that I have seen, got mine for 100

I don't have a running total for what it cost for the J20 front I did but it was alot in the end.
http://www.panther4x4.com/Panther/Hysteer.htmlYeah, I'm sure I could come up with a flat top and get it machined for less than $140, but after perusing the PBB, it looks like a knuckle with the machine-work is going to cost me about that much that way, and as for finding a '76 or earlier K-10 or K-20 in a yard around here, pulling it, paying for it, then trucking up to Brookline and paying and waiting for the machine work... It's going to be worth it for me to pay the extra and have the knuckles here for me next week.

Man, I never thought I'd be paying more cash rather than spending the extra time, but I guess life has reached that stage.

Thanks for the reminder about Shakerbuilt; the pair of arms is $125 now, but I've seen their work first-hand and it looks pretty good. I can probably do both arms for under $300 including the knuckles, and maybe recoup some of that when I upgrade to a D60 and sell the axle.

One thing, though; those Shakerbuilt arms don't seem to have the degree correction so that the tie-rod end is perpendicular to the tie-rod. That'd be something that the Parts Mike arm has the correction for.

I'll root around on PBB and see what the consensus there seems to be on D44 high-steer arms.

[scotty]

i think you should just bend the draglink and see how it rides. you will prolly encounter some bumpsteer,but with flat springs it may be bearable.

i think you should stick with your instincts to keep expenses to a bare minimum. chebby 44s are alot harder to find round these parts,so you may find yourself scrounging for spare shafts,and either paying a high price for them,or swapping ot put for a 10 bolt or a W/T jeep 44. 10 bolts are a dime a dozen,and ive not any prollmes finding spare shaftas from jeep axles either,since the j10/j20 uses the 44 also

you could also consider makig a short draglink from the pitman arm to a modified arm on the driver side knuckle. it would look goofy ;) but should work jsut fine.

some more stuff to consider anyway

im swapping in a 10 bolt cause gears and spare shafts are super easy to find smile.gif im using 4.56 gears that came from a rear car 10 bolt

i have had minimal trouble with my front 44 and 38s,and im not nice to mine rig either. but were not going to have that debate again ;)

[Kenall]

DO NOT BEND THE DRAGLINK...been there done that.

[River Beast]

Originally posted by Kenall:
DO NOT BEND THE DRAGLINK...been there done that.Ditto... once you bend it... it will keep bending... and bending... and bending.....

[Bob Barry]

OK, been over to PBB, and decided to go with PartsMike's arm, maybe even his HD arm, which is twice as thick as the Shakerbuilt arm (1.5" vs. .75"; a number of pics of bent Shakerbuilt arms over ther). I'll use my existing hardware, which will keep price down to $90-$120, depending on which arm I go with.

More importantly, I can get it done in the meager time I've got available. smile.gif

[River Beast]

Bob... I saw that D60 arm that was bent on PBB... He had to do something CRAZY to do that as I have the same arm from Shaker for my 60.... VERY high quality.

Go with parts mike for the 44 arms

[Kenall]

PBB???

[River Beast]

PBB= Pirate Bulletin Board :D

[Kenall]

thot so
thanks.