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rangerkh
11-17-2002, 01:51 PM
had my 360 rebuilt - been sitting for a few weeks and forgot what type of oil should I use for the break in after I get it installed? On a side note I have a few left over parts from the engine that donated the crank and block. I have the heads and oil pan and valve covers from that engine. do the heads have any value or should I turn them in for a core charge or does someone want to buy them?

Thanks

Bob Barry
11-18-2002, 02:02 AM
The heads have some value, just not a lot. How much core value would they have for you?

The oilpan would be useful for us rust-belters; they tend to corrode and develop pinhole leaks.

As for break-in, I just used 10W-30, then drained it and put in fresh oil after the first 30-minute run-in. Then I change the oil after the first 500 miles, then ever 3,000 afterwards.

turtlejoe
11-18-2002, 04:12 AM
An engine builder I've talked with in the past tells all of his clients to run straight 30W for the first 500 miles, then drain and replace with 10W-30. I have no experience with this, but thought I'd pass it along.

kidatforty
11-19-2002, 04:31 PM
I built a lot of engines when I was in the auto business. My recommendation has always been 30 or 40 weight non-detergent oil. Change 200-300 miles to detergent type 30w or 40w depending on ambient temp.or multi-viscosity if you drive from one extreme to another. Change every 3000mi thereafter. I recommend valvoline, then castrol in order of preference. I never liked pennzoil. I could always tell when a client used pennz. by all the excessive black , waxy sludge in the block and on the rocker arms. They would always say: " How did you know?"