question for NP229 x-fer case experts?

[waggin'ear]

I was driving along and stopped to look at an '83 Wag that was for sale this weekend, and i have questions for you guys.

It has a 360, 727, and NP229.

The front driveshaft would not engage, and the range lever would not budge (it was in high).

When i say the front driveshaft would not engage, i mean that i could spin it freely by hand, even when the mode switch in the truck said 4wd.

Does this sound like a vaccum problem related to the switch motor?

I know that the range lever won't go into 4-lo if the truck isn't in 4wd, but i wasn't sure why it wouldn't go to neutral.

Heck i'm not even really interested in buying this thing, I just want to learn.

Thanks.


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adam
'82 wag ltd, 152k
360 AMC, 2vl, NP219, 727
stock, down to the original radio (w/cassette player!)

[BobBarry]

It definitely sounds like the vacuum routing to the front axle. You can test it out by using a vacuum hand-pump to lock in the front axle and then see if 4wd engages.

The NP229 seems to be locked INTO high range when in 2wd, rather than locked OUT of low-range, so you can't move it into "N" when in 2wd (not without breaking it, I'm sure).

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Bob Barry<UL TYPE=SQUARE>* '78 Cherokee 4-door
* '88 Grand Wagoneer[/list]http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/

[waggin'ear]

Thanks. How expensive is it to replace the switch motor, as i assume this would be the most expensive part?

This guy might get rid of it really cheap if the 4wd is broken.

ps i shouldn't even be thinking about buying this thing, but it pretty hard not to.

Hello my name is adam, and i'm and FSJ addict.

[BobBarry]

&lt;all together&gt;

HI, ADAM!

The first step is admitting that you've been infected by the bug.

The second thing is to ***** and moan to the seller about how hard it's going to be to fix the 4wd on this thing ("yeah, the transfer case alone costs $1200, then you're looking at TEN hours of labor for replacement!")

The third thing to do is to drag the truck home, loosen-up the shift-fork for the front axle if it is binding (I seriously doubt anything would need to be replaced, apart from some vacuum lines), and run vacuum to it full-time so the front axle is always engaged. That way you can have full-time shift-on-the-fly 4wd on your new Wagoneer! http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/smile.gif

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Bob Barry<UL TYPE=SQUARE>* '78 Cherokee 4-door
* '88 Grand Wagoneer[/list]http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/

[andy d]

on my 83 and 84 wags when the 4wd went out,i repaired it in a coupla hrs with about 5$ wortha vacuum hose. tell the guy you know that the transfercase costs big money to fix as a bargaining tool.

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'88 gwag,pure stock

[Dutch]

You guys are better than my wife antique shopping, talk about your professional hagglers. (Chuckle)

Dutch

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360 Bored and Smoked
Edlebrock Carb, Cam, Covers and Manifold (They have a line item on my pay-stub).
K&N, MSD, Taylor, American Racing,
Goodrich, ConFerr, blah, blah, blah...Way to many stickers (for my wifes taste)

[ironroad29]

besides you can always swap in a 205 and use the flag lever as the shifter .... but yea argue about the price ...sounds like a bad t case to me"hint hint "

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"If a jeep can't take you there, maybe you should think twice about going"

[Dude]

I am going to be rebuilding the 727 soon and need to learn what to look for on a worn 229. While I have the tranny out I'd like to address whatever needs attention on a 229 w/ 200,000+ miles (no jokin' in Hoboken) on it. Mine operates flawlessly and just makes some normal straight gear noise in 4-Low.
Who has been inside one of these things?? Does the Jeep X-Fer Case Manual really cover everything?? What should be replaced??
As an aside, what temp should this thing run at highway speed on an 80F day? Has anyone had any REAL luck w/ an oil additive (or any other means of) reducing this temp??

Thanks
Dude

[scotty]

there are a million little sticks(needle bearings) around the output shaft,so make sure you dismantle it with the rear yoke pionting straight up,after youve broken the front and rear yoke nuts loose,of course. that way the tailshaft wont fall off the diff and send all your sticks rolling around.

also there is a gear that has very little engagement while the xfer is 2wd.dont know how else to explain it,but as the shift pads and forks wear out(which is another common prollem),this engagement becomes less and less until the gear strips itself out.

also pay attentionto the fluid that comes out.a wierd silvery,metallic substance mixed in with the fluid could mean that the viscous coupling is leaking out uts silicone fluid. check the v/c very carefully for cracks-a friend of mine had one that puked out all his silicone then a short time later split wide open.the v/c works by plates shearing thru the silicone. i am not sure if the v/c can wear out,other than leaking out its fluid.at any rate,its not a part id likely replace for the heck out it,unless it has visible damage,as one will run you a couple hundred smackers.

check the case halves also very well for cracks. the 228/229 for some reason seem alot more likely to crack casehalves than any other aluminum case xfer,including the bw qt.i have seen and talked toalot of people wit this pollem.

other than that,im sure a 200k+ xfer will need a chain,bt thats vout all i can think of off the top of my head,hope it helps.

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scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/t18/spicer 18 with pto/widetrac offset d44s/rear discs
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

vw turing brake,BIG tow truck PTO winch and full roll cage install very soon
4.0 aquired-4.5L stroker someday...

now we can do some 'wheelin!