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Treetopflyer
10-05-2002, 01:14 AM
Being fairly new to Jeep (or 4x4 for that matter) ownership, I had to investigate the capabilities of my new rig ('74 J-20). Of course I chose to do this alone, on private University of MN land, and without a cell phone. In short, I found the limitations in a mud / water hole. "It didn't look that deep" It was. I stuck it bad. with the cab flooded to the seat. After hiking out of the mosquito infested woods (4 miles), I got home to find all of my 4x4 friends had already had too many cocktails for the rescue. So I had to pull it out the next morning. This seems to be indicitive of many of my adventures.

I have slowly been trying to take care of any problems the overnight submersion may have caused. So far:

1. new starter
2. all fluids (oil,tranny,diffs,transfer)

I need input on what other items I should attend to in order to avoid problems. No water got in the engine as far as I can tell. However, I waited on repacking the wheel bearings and think I may now pay for that.

My first ride out I heard some dragging, grinding from the front left wheel area. I assume it to be a failed bearing from the 'big sink' Now, call me mechanically un-inclined but I have disassembled the front as far as I can get and AM FRUSTRATINGLY STUCK. I can see no more snaprings and don't recognize anything as a locknut. The pictures in the Haynes manual look completely different from my setup on my truck. My suspicions is that the truck may have been converted from full-time 4x4 to part-time. The warn hubs have six BOLTS (not allen heads) and are a different setup than the newer models. Would someone, within this vast experience pool, take a look at the pictures on the following website and tell me how to proceed from here ??

http://www.treetopflyers.org/JeepJ20Axles/index.html

While we are talking axles, I believe I have Dana 60 FF on the rear (also on the site, is that right??) How are the bearings in those wheels lubricated ?? The Haynes manual seems to suggest packing them with grease but aren't they lubricated by the rear diff ?? Highly confused on this one.

I hope someone figures this out. I will be interested to hear the opinions that follow. Feel free to take a few shots at me about getting myself into this situation in return.

Thanks Folks,

Doug Beck

jasonthomasfrance
10-05-2002, 01:43 AM
Welcome! I can't help with the axle... sorry... But I'm from Minneapolis... My sister decided to go to the UofM at Morris, since it was cheaper... I almost sent my jeep up to her, but it's not in that good of condition...

I sunk mine pretty bad too. If you notice your tail lights and tailgate not working in a couple days it might be fuses or ground. Mine still isn't working...

The starter was easy to replace in mine. Couldn't believe how mch water came out of the starter... sheesh...

seabell
10-05-2002, 03:15 AM
Was the puddle as deep as this one?

http://www.minca.cz/suzuki/

dnixon
10-05-2002, 04:40 AM
Originally posted by seabell:
Was the puddle as deep as this one?

http://www.minca.cz/suzuki/I love that one.. driving driving..floating.. ahh sinking!!!

Panoscopic
10-05-2002, 04:56 AM
Originally posted by Mr. Toad's Wild Ride A.K.A dnixon:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by seabell:
Was the puddle as deep as this one?

http://www.minca.cz/suzuki/I love that one.. driving driving..floating.. ahh sinking!!!</font>[/QUOTE]How in the heck did you find this???

seabell
10-05-2002, 07:27 AM
Someone posted it to the mailing list...
We're not helping Doug much here, are we?
Sorry, Doug, I looked at your photos but it's a different setup to what I'm familiar with.

Brown Bear
10-05-2002, 07:53 AM
Some lessons from me putting a Toyota Camry into a bigger puddle than it could handle:

1) open all the doors, and leave em open for a few days. Take a hair dryer and have fun with it for a few hours. Also, get a shop vac and try to get as much water out of there as you can.

2) Just in case, take out all your spark plugs, spray some wd40 into each cylinder, and turn it over for a few seconds. Pray that no water comes out. If it does, turn it over for a few seconds at a time, letting it rest inbetween, until no water comes out anymore. You can easily hydrolock a cylinder, which cost me $900 for one cylinder on my camry.

3) Jack up the front end, to let as much water as possible come out the exhaust.

4) Pray that everything works right when you start it up again.

5) Stay out of mudholes until you know how deep it is, less you end up like the Suzuki.

dnixon
10-05-2002, 09:25 AM
Originally posted by Panoscopic:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Mr. Toad's Wild Ride A.K.A dnixon:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by seabell:
Was the puddle as deep as this one?

http://www.minca.cz/suzuki/I love that one.. driving driving..floating.. ahh sinking!!!</font>[/QUOTE]How in the heck did you find this???</font>[/QUOTE]one of the best websites on the net... www.collegehumor.com (http://www.collegehumor.com) I am a campus representitive for them at my school.. but since they had a money problem this year that didn't amount too squat...

TEX
10-05-2002, 11:52 AM
The next thing I would check would be all of the electrical systems. make sure there are no shorts. you dont want your fsj burning down.

Sycho15
10-05-2002, 12:41 PM
All I can add is that you are correct on that being a Full-Floating D60 rear axle.

seabell
10-05-2002, 01:24 PM
If it's a full floater, why did his Jeep sink?

Yeah, I know: "Shut up, Charlie"...

alaska dillon
10-05-2002, 01:35 PM
Am no help on the hubs. On my 64 J-300 I pulled the vent caps on the diffs, t-case, and tranny, attached hoses from there to near the top of the firewall (rear diff line up by fuel fill in bed) and attached small K&N filters. This keeps the water/mud/critters out when the water is deeper than I thought. (believe this was posted elsewhere on this site, many thanks to the originator of this mod.) It has saved me lots of grief.

Bob Barry
10-05-2002, 03:19 PM
The rear bearings on a full-floater are greased like the front; they ride between the spindle and the hub, so axle fluid won't reach them in sufficient quantities to lubricate them.

Those hubs look like automatic locking hubs; they have a ramp and roller style clutch, which is used in one-way applications. I have no idea how those would be disassmebled; sorry. :(

Iron Horse
10-07-2002, 05:52 AM
Go HERE (http://www.napco4x4.org) for some warn hub info. Click "tech tips", then click "warn hub disassembly". Looks like the picture links are crap....but the write-up is good.

I'll look some more. smile.gif

****Edit: Heres some more diagrams

PAGE 1 (http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/Series/warnhub1.html)

PAGE 2 (http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/Series/warnhub2.html)

[ October 07, 2002, 01:16 PM: Message edited by: Iron Horse ]