Safely Removing "Wood" Trim from a Donor?

[SamoyedSled]

After drilling out the rivets that hold the wood trim on, can I use a puddy knife to remove? I don't want to damage it. I'm missing my left rear quarter pannel plastic/wood trim and found a donor which still has it's wood trim in good shape.

Should I use heat to losen the adhesive? Thinking of using torch on sheet metal to warm it up, but not melt the plastic.

Any ideas or experience? Maybe a solvent?

Thanks,

Jeff

[JB]

I used a straight razor as to not damage the metal.. very long time consuming project when I took it to get painted the fokes told me I wasted my time and did more damage than good.. They told me I should have sparyed oven-cleaner on it and let it sit overnight and it would have pealed right off..

[JB]

let me be a little more specific the guys that told me to use oven cleaner own a "ski nautique" dealership and they use it to remove the stickers on the fiberglass boats , They were friends of mine painting the vehicle on the side.. sooo Im not soo sure they knew what they were talking about with the wood grain removal..

[Joker]

I have a 83 and the plugs in the molding are just for looks. It should just pull off. I knocked some of mine off trailing and found out, no rivets just black glue. Hope this helps.

[SamoyedSled]

Joker,

Thanks, Guess I'll try a putty knife and hammer to get behind the "plastic" wood and hope it comes off in one piece.

What kind of stuff did you use to re-apply on your vehicle? if not riveted.

Thanks again,

Jeff

[Sgt. Dave]

Junkyard trick- get a broken GM hood release cable ( they always break at the latch end)One end will have the plastic handle in it. Wrap the other end around a dowel or a 1\2 inch extension at a convient length.Starting at a corner, or at an open end, "saw" behind the trim with the cable, keeping pressure against the metal side. Works like a charm. You can remove glued in window glass the same way. ;)

[Iron Horse]

I had the best results removing mine on a nice HOT, sunny day with a plastic putty type knife. My 88's trim was rivited in most of the corners, the 82 parts rig was just glued on and came off real easy....not so with the 88. Whatever method you do use.....take your time.

[nxcj]

Like Iron Horse said...take your time. My '83 came off VERY easy just by pulling steady as there are only a few rivets up front. My '86 was an entirely different story. The adhesive on the newer Wags is much, much stronger. I'd use a putty knife to "cut" the adhesive as you pull it off. Don't pull hard because the trim will snap in half...

-Nick

[shadowfax101]

I used a putty knife and it worked great. If you are worried about the car it is coming off of, then I would use more caution

[CSmith]

There is a spray on woodgrain remover that is available from autobody supply stores. I have had good luck using either a heat lamp or letting it sit in the sun. If it gets too hot it just melts and tears (usually from the localized heat of a heat gun). The autobody supply should also have plastic razor blades which will come in handy if you are trying to save the paint. To reapply the adhesive mouldings, you MUST remove all old foam and glue. Cut the foam as close as possible with a metal razor blade. Go slowly and at an angle while you pull up on the backing. When you are down to mostly glue, use lacquer thinner to soften it and scrape with the blade (put the blade in one of those little plastic holders so it won't catch while you are scraping, flip, and send you to the doc for 3 (or more) stitches. The absolute best stuff to reapply with is the 3M Super Duty trim adhesive in the width closest to the moulding. Don't let the guy tell you that the standard stuff is good enough, GET THE SUPER DUTY. Lay a piece of masking tape as a guide before you apply the moulding, and use it as a guide. If done as stated, the moulding will NOT fall off :D Good Luck!