View Full Version : pictures of engine cut in half
jeepsr4ever
11-27-2003, 12:28 PM
this one is for my tech buddies
http://www.bulltear.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=837
Rogue
11-27-2003, 12:34 PM
cool...refresh my memory what is minimum wall thickness? the spec that is.
[ November 27, 2003, 07:34 PM: Message edited by: RogueStar ]
jeepsr4ever
11-27-2003, 12:39 PM
minimum wall thickness depends on the block material.
If your ASE then you have some ideas of wall thicknedd but i tell you what we have done a .120 over 304 stroked before and on the same token weve doen a .060 360 and had a crack in the cylinder. But ive also gone .095 over with a 360 with no problems. I guess of you want to go extreme it is always a good idea to get a X-ray done
jeepsr4ever
11-27-2003, 12:45 PM
Mopar calls out .040 max but ive seen these block with at least 3 different wall thicknessess
For what's worth. Factory recommended max overbore for AMC motors:
290-304 0.125
343-360 0.045
390-401 0.0225
jeepsr4ever
11-27-2003, 12:48 PM
i love it joe they say 401 .0225....LOL
Ahh but oh well that factory spec
Rogue
11-27-2003, 12:56 PM
if my memory is right, which is once a year, than i think that minimum wall thickness is something like .125 or .250, i just don't remember
Rogue
11-27-2003, 12:57 PM
oh i just got what you said sorry turkey making me sleepy....
jeepsr4ever
11-27-2003, 01:00 PM
yeah triptofan...gotta love it...LOL
I try to stay around .240 for a minimum no matter what block is being built, but when we did a BIG BORE 258 we used 3/16" 4340 sleeves...dang i wish i had pics of that buildup....maybe i will do another
AMX factor
11-27-2003, 01:08 PM
I've seen many a 401 go as much as .060 over bore. The factory rating of .0225 is the safe bore before the overheating monster rears it's ugly head. The AMC block with it's high nickel content is far superior in strength and anti wear tolerances to any Chevy, Ford or Dodge engine. Hell if you wanna have fun punch out the block and resleeve and go .120. Ain't nothing like adding 12 cubic inches(approx) to your motor.
jeepsr4ever
11-27-2003, 01:11 PM
AMX i like your thinking
mark j
11-27-2003, 01:13 PM
How do sleeves work? Do you seriously overbore the block to put them in? How technical is it- can any decent machine shop do a good job- or is this something you should ship out? I have a 401 I am going to rebuild and I am wondering if sleeves might be in order. Looking at the wall thickness on that block makes me wonder though. Thanks.
bigun
11-27-2003, 01:16 PM
In the late 40,s there were some guys up in Co running flat head V8,s like everybody else but they were always wining then pulling their motor and replacing it. It was found out that they had bored all the way through the water jackett sleaved it and ran it with out any coolant it was good for about 50 Laps then it would lock up and they would throw it away. LOL
jeepsr4ever
11-27-2003, 01:16 PM
how much over are you?
Sleeving means overboring the block a ton..sleeves are done by most automotive machine shops and a sleeve is JUST as good as the factory bore when done right, where i am at i charge 75 per sleeve but thats high
bigun
11-27-2003, 01:17 PM
NItro fuel engines are all sleeved as are detroit and other deisel engines
jeepsr4ever
11-27-2003, 01:20 PM
yeah i have heard of that too....LOL about the flatheads
bigun
11-27-2003, 01:21 PM
From what I understand they almost hada linch mob after them LOL
jeepsr4ever
11-27-2003, 01:22 PM
yeah ive been in a lynch mob, when a guy came to me with a 401 he bought from a guy for 600....didnt bother to see the 304 cast in teh side of the block.....LOL
bigun
11-27-2003, 01:27 PM
buyer beware I know where there is one cheaper
Originally posted by AMX factor:
I've seen many a 401 go as much as .060 over bore. I've "heard" of them but never seen one. I have personally seen two that went 60 over(the only two I've seen at 60 over) and one does run...with an exotic alum rad, aux cooling fans, trick water pump, trick coolant and still runs warmer than it should. The other motor my fiend got tired of fighting it and tore it back down and had it sleeved and rebuilt it with stock parts. Works fine now.
Ask SnakeEyes(member here) how long he fought his 60 over 401. Last posts I saw of his he was selling the crank and rods from it.
It's your motor folks. Do as you see fit. smile.gif
millertime
11-27-2003, 02:13 PM
Dont all aluminum block engine use sleeve inserts? Bronze or a composite?
bigun
11-27-2003, 02:35 PM
yes sir,chevy tried to do with out them in the vega cosworth motor and it was a disaster.
jeepsr4ever
11-27-2003, 05:01 PM
LOL
Lindel
11-27-2003, 10:45 PM
Sleeving an engine is the way to go, if you want some serious cubes out of it. The can pretty much install any size sleeve that they have in a block, once they punch it out.
The primary concern is if/how they pin the bottom of the sleeve, if not done correctly then you'll trash the sleeve, piston and possibly the rod when the sleeve gets pushed/pulled out of place.
Most aluminum blocks have sleeves, yes. Aluminum doesn't stand up to the wear and tear that steel can, so the blocks are sleeved.
No worries when a sleeve is done correctly, as already stated. Top fuel dragsters/funny cars use sleeves in blocks that make well over 6000 HP, and in big diesels that make well over 1000 ft-lbs of torque.
Sleeves also make for a cheaper, easier rebuild, once the job is done. Trash a cylinder, yank the sleeve and start fresh.
AMX factor
11-28-2003, 01:07 AM
My brother runs a street 401 in a 74 Javelin. He's .060 overbore, runs the same alum radiator I run in my GW, custom cam, valvetrain. Runs mid 12's quarter mile. He actually amazingly enough has no heating problems. Runs on the street at about 200-210 degrees all the time. $75 is not a bad price. Place I worked at in college was $100 a hole for boring and sleeve and installation. High price but to save a hard to find block from the scrap heap that's cheap.
bigun
11-28-2003, 02:39 AM
It's just to bad he is so far away
jeepsr4ever
11-28-2003, 04:46 AM
LOL yeah your blocks might get frostbite up here
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