PDA

View Full Version : Rear window defroster soldering


ClarkstonGT
12-07-2001, 08:32 AM
Hey guys, a question. My rear window defroster hasn't worked from day one. I traced the problem to where the wires attach to the busbars on either side of the window. The joints are broken. I have tried soldering the wires with one of those cheap AutoZone soldering irons, but it doesn't get hot enough. I am considering removing the window this weekend and soldering it using a torch. Anyone ever done this? Will this damage the window (i.e. break it)? Any help/experience would be appreciated. Thanks.

reddog
12-07-2001, 09:01 AM
I have not done it but think a torch would be likely to break the window. I suggest a soldering gun with good output. Flux it well.

Kerry

WINGO
12-07-2001, 09:11 AM
NO do not use a torch!

Go to a Radio Shack and pick up some good high tin solder. You can melt this with a match.

Also try using a high wattage soldering iron.

What wattage iron have you been using?

wagdriver
12-07-2001, 09:38 AM
Wingo is right on the money. You need pretty good size iron to solder these connections because the glass acts like a huge heat sink and draws heat away from the solder quickly.
It must be large enough to melt the solder to its fully liquid state which will allows the solder to flow completely through the wire and braid that the wire is attached to. Don't froget to clean the joint to be soldered completely and use electronic specific flux and solder. I use a small stainless steel wire to clean the area completely and then apply the flux. Tin the wire prior and the braid separetely and to ensure good solder contact. Then place the wire on top of the braid and the soldering iron on top of the wire and braid. After the solder becomes liquid hold the wire in place and remove the iron, and allow the solder to solidify. Clean any excess flux with alcohol. Your defroster should work now. ;)

[ December 07, 2001: Message edited by: wagdriver ]

ClarkstonGT
12-07-2001, 10:07 AM
Thanks for the warning. I bought the biggest iron they had at AutoZone (35 watt I think). It was nowhere near powerful enough. That's why I thought about the torch. I really don't have much use for 1000 watt soldering iron. I think I will just borrow one from work overnight. Thanks for the info.

wagdriver
12-07-2001, 11:16 PM
You will probably need something larger than 50 watts. I had a large Radio Shack(the printing for the wattage has long since gone)that I used on mine. The soldering tip needs to be at least 1/4 inch in diameter. Good luck! ;)

Dan G
12-08-2001, 12:04 AM
You could also consider a soldering gun, usually they are between 100 and 500 watts.

Ernzo
12-08-2001, 02:25 AM
NOt to be a DS, but I did the job with a Wal Mart POS tool. A better tool would have been faster, but it's a Jeep. Who's in a hurry? Frankly, the hardest part was figuring out how to clamp the darn wire on while I held the solder with my teeth, but that is a Typical Jeep Job (TJJ).

I did regret using POS solder. DOn't forget to r&r the wire using some zip tie, there are alot of moving parts down in there, and it will pull off easily.

wagdriver
12-08-2001, 11:17 PM
The reason you use electronic specific solder is that it is resin based flux in the core. Other solder such as used for plumbing and such are acid based flux's and will corrode badly if left to the weather and will release that acid in places we don't need it on our Jeeps. ;)