fulmetal
02-08-2001, 01:29 PM
I ahve been asked by Adamstrator to write a short description of the mods that I found to be needed to correctly accomplish this Modification. I must say first that what worked for me was what I felt to be the safest and maybee not the fastest. I will try to warn you of the pitfalls that got me. That way you will not have to fall in the same ones.
Just to say this all started at my buddies shop with the install of a 3" body lift. Well as you see the body lift was returned to the store. I will try to provide a link to the pic as I go that best describes the set up
OK here we go, First off you will need to locate the front knuckles off of a D 44 from a chevy donor. At this point if the dollars was not at an extreme issue you could locate a 78'ish F-150 D-44 and have it retubed. This would do two things it would give you the reverse cut (high pinion) diff which would aleviate a lot of hassels later and 2) it would give you the opertunity to propperly set up the camber and caster. If i had to do all over again I would go this route I might just go this way w/ a D60 http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/smile.gif
Once you have the parts tou need to have the steering arms made and the spacer blocks made to look something like these. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=187566&a=11248759&p=40358579
The bolt pattern imitates the pattern on the driver side bolt pattern on the knuckle. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=187566&a=11248759&p=40358571
You will need to remove the axle and be able to hold it level while you weld the new spring pads on the diff. Take notice the cast that has to be ground away to let the pad lay flat on the top of the tube. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=187566&a=11248759&p=23652642
As you can see the tube was reinforced to add some strength around the cast
I will also tell you not to weld the perch on all at once it might distort the tubes. OK what next?
You can then hang the diff on the rig. Once that is accomplished you should be able to install the knuckles (with new ball joints of course) and reassemble. You will need to mount the shocks in a new location and the stabilezer along with the sway bar. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=187566&a=11248759&p=40358575
Once the diff is done you will need to modify the crossmember to allow for the drop in the dront shaft( this is where a reverse cut D44 would be great)
There are a lot of little things that I am sure that I skipped over but they should obviouse to the person doing the work.
Last note I put two tie rods on my rig because I was knocking the Toe out on the rocks. Since I have the dual set up there has been no probs
Here is a link to the complete high steering setup. If you have any specific question please feel free to E-mail me and I will help you where I can. Good luck
------------------
84 Grand Wag
360, soa, headers,
33 bfg,on board welder,air
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=187566&a=7042531&p=23652635
Just to say this all started at my buddies shop with the install of a 3" body lift. Well as you see the body lift was returned to the store. I will try to provide a link to the pic as I go that best describes the set up
OK here we go, First off you will need to locate the front knuckles off of a D 44 from a chevy donor. At this point if the dollars was not at an extreme issue you could locate a 78'ish F-150 D-44 and have it retubed. This would do two things it would give you the reverse cut (high pinion) diff which would aleviate a lot of hassels later and 2) it would give you the opertunity to propperly set up the camber and caster. If i had to do all over again I would go this route I might just go this way w/ a D60 http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/smile.gif
Once you have the parts tou need to have the steering arms made and the spacer blocks made to look something like these. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=187566&a=11248759&p=40358579
The bolt pattern imitates the pattern on the driver side bolt pattern on the knuckle. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=187566&a=11248759&p=40358571
You will need to remove the axle and be able to hold it level while you weld the new spring pads on the diff. Take notice the cast that has to be ground away to let the pad lay flat on the top of the tube. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=187566&a=11248759&p=23652642
As you can see the tube was reinforced to add some strength around the cast
I will also tell you not to weld the perch on all at once it might distort the tubes. OK what next?
You can then hang the diff on the rig. Once that is accomplished you should be able to install the knuckles (with new ball joints of course) and reassemble. You will need to mount the shocks in a new location and the stabilezer along with the sway bar. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=187566&a=11248759&p=40358575
Once the diff is done you will need to modify the crossmember to allow for the drop in the dront shaft( this is where a reverse cut D44 would be great)
There are a lot of little things that I am sure that I skipped over but they should obviouse to the person doing the work.
Last note I put two tie rods on my rig because I was knocking the Toe out on the rocks. Since I have the dual set up there has been no probs
Here is a link to the complete high steering setup. If you have any specific question please feel free to E-mail me and I will help you where I can. Good luck
------------------
84 Grand Wag
360, soa, headers,
33 bfg,on board welder,air
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=187566&a=7042531&p=23652635