Got the Waggy back, now Q's

[Doc Savage]

Well finally picked up the 78 Waggy friday after 8 months at the shop (took them forever to get to it). They took care of my big problem (getting it running) however there are a couple of little things I'm not sure of.

They put a new chain in the QT for me. This vehicle has been sitting for a couple of years, and I'm getting what I think is "stick slip". Understandable given it has sat so long, but after ~150 miles it still does it. I plan to check to make sure they uset QT fluid. Does that sound reasonable, or should I wait longer? It wasn't doing this before that I remember.

Also a couple of fuel tank questions. They replumbed all the fuel lines. I have 2 tanks, main tank is an add in where the spare went, and stock is now the aux tank. They were plumbed where the main tank would fill first then flow into the aux. Checked the plumbing and everything looks good, but I couldn't put enough gas in to get any in the aux tank, pump kept shutting off on me. Could this be too sensitive a pump, or should I look for something else.

Also the fuel guage was switchable between the two tanks (each had it's own sending unit). Worked OK previously, but now won't. I can follow the wire to the new main tank (aux tank still uses stock wireing harness as near as I can tell, switch is at the dash and switches the wire to the guage from one sending unit to the other). Should there only be one wire from each sending unit? Are they grounded thru the tank (chassis) and should there be a ground wire somewhere. As the tanks were dropped to replumb the lines something like this could have been missed.

Also have an exhaust leak on the passenger side. It went to a muffler shop for a new Y pipe (I had new manifolds put on and they didn't quite line up). The shop had issues with a "block" that went between the manifold and the Y pipe previous to taking it to the muffler shop. This "block" appeared to have a valve to shut off the exhaust (spring loaded that might be temperature sensative). Anyone seen something like this before? This is where the exhaust leak is (almost like it needs a gasket).

Did have a power problem when I first got it back. Had to run with the pedle on the floor most of the time and couldn't get the 4 barrel to kick in. Ended up rebending the throttle peddle for more clearance ;) must have gotten bent over the years. Everything is fine now.

Robert

[Don S]

Robert ... Make sure your QT is not in e-drive
… "A way to check your ‘e-drive’ is to find a big graveled parking lot. Do some tight figure 8s and listen to the noise level of the gravel. Then put it in e-drive, you may have go straight and lightly rock fore & aft, a red light should come on in the instrument panel. The light could be burned out or the sender unit bad. Do the figure 8s again.... The gravel noise should be louder and the FSJ should buck and snort a little more… if not the system may have problems.
… If you GOT IT IN, straighten the wheels, turn off e-drive and go back and forth 'bout 50' a few times or till light goes off. If no light do 8s and see if gravel noise is LESS."
... If you have a bad case of slipstick there wouldn’t be very much change in the gravel noise level between standard drive and e-drive. If this is the case you will only get a little additional wear on tires and gears.

… Did they put a vent hose on each fuel tank?

… The ‘BLOCK’ is a ‘exhaust gas heat-riser’ designed to heat the manifold and help the choke system to operate correctly. I removed mine and installed a manual choke
… I will pit some QT links here incase you need them… I quoted myself from one of the links..
Good luck and CUL ;) … ds..

http://groups.msn.com/JEEPTECH101/jeeptech.msnw QT TESTING
http://www.frontier.net/~mystkblu/qt_cutout.htm Flints QT cutaway pic
http://www.t-r-j.com/Auto/QT/quadratrac.htm QT
http://home.earthlink.net/~riverbeast/qt01.htm RBs QT
http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=005416
http://groups.msn.com/JEEPTECH101/jeeptech.msnw QT TESTING
http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=007239 FSJ QT1339 CONES
----------------------------------------------
76 406 QT TruTrac 2"lift 31x10.50s been over 261 Colorado MTN Passes since '85-BRC#30093 http://www.sharetrails.org/ –Join and save your Trail
http://groups.msn.com/isapi/fetch.dll?action=MyPhotos_GetPubPhoto&PhotoID=nIgAAAI4JqH2Ksz*nK5VJBwdYFUSEpR9kgKNYAbNSM xIpFdfjx98wr79lCDjSYm5!E0yuchGUqNsJeep of the Month http://www.auburn.edu/~hawkijf/test.html
http://communities.msn.com/ATexasOklahomaJeepClub/yourwebpage.msnw 2003 OURAY Invasion tips ABOVE & Abbreviation - Acronym list BELOW
http://groups.msn.com/ASW4x4CampingTrailTravelClub/abbreviations.msnw

[Desert Beast]

Originally posted by Doc Savage:

Also a couple of fuel tank questions. They replumbed all the fuel lines. I have 2 tanks, main tank is an add in where the spare went, and stock is now the aux tank. They were plumbed where the main tank would fill first then flow into the aux. Checked the plumbing and everything looks good, but I couldn't put enough gas in to get any in the aux tank, pump kept shutting off on me. Could this be too sensitive a pump, or should I look for something else.

Roberti have that same problem what i did to help the situation is put the pump in and then turn it upside down. you might have to play arount w/ it for a bit but it seems to work with me.
just my .02

[Doc Savage]

Originally posted by Don S:
Robert ... Make sure your QT is not in e-drive
… "I don't think it is in e-drive. There was a vacume leak sound under the dash (I think the switch may be leaking). I had to pull and cap the vacume hose from the engine to stop it. (plan to sort out the vaucme stuff later).

Did they put a vent hose on each fuel tank?Yep, there is a vent from each tank that comes up to a "T" and then feeds up to the vent at the filer tube.

The ‘BLOCK’ is a ‘exhaust gas heat-riser’
I thought the heat riser was the jacket type thing surrounding the manifold. That is what appears to be conected to the tube that leads up to the breather.

Thanks for the help. I'll check out the sites you sent.

Robert

[Doc Savage]

Don,

Also forgot to mention that I did try with the e-drive in both positions and didn't notice a difference (didn't try on gravel though). E-drive light doesn't come on either (but then the dash lights do seem to be screwy, no illumination lights, and seatbelt stays on continuously.

Robert

[Don S]

Originally posted by Doc Savage:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Don S:
Robert ... Make sure your QT is not in e-drive
… "I don't think it is in e-drive. There was a vacume leak sound under the dash (I think the switch may be leaking). I had to pull and cap the vacume hose from the engine to stop it. (plan to sort out the vaucme stuff later).

The ‘BLOCK’ is a ‘exhaust gas heat-riser’
I thought the heat riser was the jacket type thing surrounding the manifold. That is what appears to be conected to the tube that leads up to the breather.

Thanks for the help. I'll check out the sites you sent.

Robert</font>[/QUOTE]That thing on the manifold is a ‘hot air’ riser… not an exhaust gas riser. … A heat-riser valve (in the exhaust system) stuck in the closed position will route some of the exhaust from one manifold through to the intake manifold and in the case of a lot of V-8 engines, out the other exhaust manifold, which will raise overall engine coolant and oil temperature. My '76 came with both heat risers.
… You may be in e-drive now… not good…
Good luck… ;) CUL… ds..
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
76 406 QT TruTrac 2"lift 31x10.50s been over 261 Colorado MTN Passes since '85-BRC#30093 http://www.sharetrails.org/ –Join and save your Trail
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/1963-1983-Wagoneers/76401.s.jpgJeep of the Month http://www.auburn.edu/~hawkijf/test.html
http://communities.msn.com/ATexasOklahomaJeepClub/yourwebpage.msnw ..
2003 Ouray Invasion tips ABOVE*&*Abbreviation & Acronym list BELOW
http://groups.msn.com/ASW4x4CampingTrailTravelClub/abbreviations.msnw

[Doc Savage]

Originally posted by Don S:
Robert[/qb]That thing on the manifold is a ‘hot air’ riser… not an exhaust gas riser. … A heat-riser valve (in the exhaust system) stuck in the closed position will route some of the exhaust from one manifold through to the intake manifold and in the case of a lot of V-8 engines, out the other exhaust manifold, which will raise overall engine coolant and oil temperature. My '76 came with both heat risers.
… You may be in e-drive now… not good…
Good luck… ;) CUL… ds..[/QB][/QUOTE]

Don thanks for the info. I believe the riser is starting to close more now. Vehicle was running very cool for a long time, and now is starting to heat up more.

As for the e-drive, I thought that without a vacumme I should be out of e-drive. I haven't found any vacume diagrams in my shop manual either. Do you have info on how the vacume should be routed between the motor and switch and tcase?

Robert

[FrankenJeep]

Originally posted by Doc Savage:
Also forgot to mention that I did try with the e-drive in both positions and didn't notice a difference (didn't try on gravel though). E-drive light doesn't come on either (but then the dash lights do seem to be screwy, no illumination lights, and seatbelt stays on continuously.I rebuilt few vacuum switches in the spring. Here's the thread. Hope you find it helpful.

Vacuum Switches - Lessons Learned (http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=009894)

Frank

[Doc Savage]

Frank,

Thanks I'll have to try that.

Robert

[Doc Savage]

Well I'm pretty sure it isn't in e-drive now. I applied vacume directly to the transfercase and thought it switched in and out. I even went to the back yard and turned donuts and didn't tear anything up, do still get a little stuttering/clunking sound, worse on left turns.

Working another issue now. Was having a problem at high speeds and when I romped on the accel and opened the secondaries (401 with Motocraft carb- all stock, carb is a replacement, remanufactured). I replaced a fuel filter and that helped for a little, then had problems again. Shop said not enough fuel pressure and installed an electric fuel pump. Better but still have the problem, at least it will recover and not stall now. Fella here at work used to rebuild carbs and race cars. He suggested either a bad booster pump on the carb or clogged fuel sock. We checked the gas going into the carb yesterday. Didn't have the pressure he expected, and was dirty. Pulled line from fuel filter and filter had some really nasty stuff in it. Decided tank had junk in it.

I dropped the main tank (a trail blazer add in at the spare position) last night and rinsed it for 1 hour then drained it all out and checked the sending unit. Sending unit was all rusted up and the float was cracked. Looked in the tank and noticed surface rust on everything pretty bad even after the rinse. I started running my finger thru all the vent/filler openings, and turns out the one I drained the tank thru was completely clogged with garbage. Rinsed the tank again and plan to POR-15 it after I get back in town next week.

Now I need to find a new sending unit for a custom tank. I've tried web searches for Trail Blazer from Bosie ID and can't find them. Think they might have gone out of business. Also need to drop the stock tank and clean it out.

Robert

[ November 22, 2002, 08:03 AM: Message edited by: Doc Savage ]