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NomadJack
08-10-2003, 05:58 AM
Anyone know the specs for the harmonic balancer bolt on an '88 360 (guage and length). I need to pick up a longer one to install the balancer.
Thanks.

Millerluck
08-10-2003, 09:05 AM
1/2"-20 Threads per inch

Get a 3' threaded rod at the hardware store and a nut. Saw off a chunk and grind a chamfer on the ends and you are good to go.

Larry Miller

[ August 10, 2003, 03:08 PM: Message edited by: Millerluck ]

Cliff
08-10-2003, 09:00 PM
I wouldn't use threaded rod, unless you can get it grade 8. Also, wouldn't the torque specs change from a bolt to a stud? It may be negligible but just wondering.

[ August 11, 2003, 03:01 AM: Message edited by: Cliff ]

River Beast
08-10-2003, 11:47 PM
I think Millerluck is wanting him to use the rod with a long enuf piece to seat the HB pulley... not use it as a stud.... it works

Zac
08-11-2003, 12:56 AM
I should of used a bolt to pull mine on I just hammeres mine on and now the stupid pulley wont fit.
Zac

Hammer
08-11-2003, 01:02 AM
I think they make that outer lip soft to keep the balancer from being hammered on. I know I did it once and found the folly in it.
The stud idea for installing the balancer is really the best idea so that your threads in the end of the crank do not get damaged. Hint, use the washer when doing this, but oil the threads and the washer where the nut will hit it. Makes it go a lot smoother (50/50 engine oil/cam lube works great here).

Millerluck
08-11-2003, 12:25 PM
Yeah just to install. Then use stock bolt.

Larry Miller

NomadJack
08-12-2003, 12:47 PM
OK, here's what I did in case someone else has the same problem. I had already damaged the first few threads in the crank trying to install the HB with the stock bolt last year, big mistake, don't ever do this.
Per the advise of the board members, I went to a number of hardware stores (including Lowe's) to find a threaded rod of the right gauge. Unfortunately, the only gauge available is 1/2-13, not the 1/2-20 needed on this crank. So I decided to get a 4" 1/2-20 bolt and a nut, broke out the tap and die set and took the threads all the way to the head. An hour and a half, much cutting oil, and a hell of a lot of heat later, I had a servicable installer that I threaded into the crank with the stock washer (well lubed), with a box end and offset wrench I was able to crank that thing down in about 5 minutes.
It took a fair amount of work, but it's a heck of a lot better than investing $50 in an installer tool and works nearly as well.
BTW, thanks for all the help.