Long Drawn-out Torque Converter Question

[Quartermaster]

With 130,000 on the odometer, I have removed the engine from my GW and am in the process of a rebuild. There will be an increase in torque and horsepower over the original engine in hopes of a better trailer (5000 lbs) towing experience. Off roading will be limited to parking in grassy parking lots and maybe a dirt road once in a while to get the boy scouts to camp. It appears to have come with the trailer towing package because when I bought it it had a large factory transmission cooler, 3.73± axle ratio, factory hitch and the light relay on the rear crossmember. The 727 transmission has been a real jewel as it has done nothing to make me think trouble is just around the corner. I was reading in a trailering magazine that a large percentage of transmission failures could be prevented had the faulty torque converter been replaced (granted it was an add for a torque converter manufacturer, consider the source).

1) So the main question is, should I replace the torque converter while I can get to it easily?

Follow up questions:
2) Who makes a decent/dependable torque converter?
3) Since there will be very small amounts of transmission fluid left whenand if I replace the converter, should I replace the stock transmission fluid with Amsoil?
4) Should I replace it with a lock-up converter? After reading recent posts there is some debate weather lock-up converters were used on these vehicles.
5) I consider myself above average when it comes to repairing vehicles and have never had second thoughts about taking anything apart....except an automatic transmission. What's the success rate of home rebuilt transmissions?

Okay, I'm done (for now)

[AMX factor]

I have an 87 GW with 727 and trailer package. It has the lock up converter. I think most after 84 or 85 had lock up converters. If anything I'd drop the whole tranny and have a shop go thru it. Have the converter checked out, they can pull them apart and clean them. I personally have built many engines, manual transmissions and rear ends but would never attempt to do an auto tranny. I let the pros do it, plus many will guarantee their work, I liek warranties. Might look into a larger tranny cooler and extra capacity pan also. The more heat you can pull from the tranny the longer it will last.

[Joe Guilbeau]

The AMC 727's are Chrysler Torqueflites in AMC housings, and are very strong.

Used in 426 Hemi's, in that era. Non lock-up torque converters are generally found for the 27 spline trannys used in most jeeps.

The lock up torque converters have an internal mechanism for locking the turbine and impeller in direct drive (when in 3rd gear) thus reducing slippage and therefore heat.

Inside a lockup module is attached to the valve body, and a switch velve in the valve body which is the converter control valve modified for lockup.

The torque converter should be replaced, and is not recommended for service. I believe that the transmission input shaft and valve bodies must be changed also.

I believe that they are come in Low Stall and High Stall versions.

This is mostly from memory when I had my 727 overhauled in 1994.

[gsmikie]

i would run type (F) fluid in it and replace the converter with a rebuilt stock converter the things that go bad are the pot metal gear sleeve inside the converter that the input shaft goes into from the trans and spot welds that hold the turbine blades that drive the fluid in the conferter as for lasting the 727 will last as long as you matain it regular fluid changes and band adjustments the 2 things that kill a auto trans is heat and a lack of clean fluid