Manual tailgate conversion

[Rusty84]

I am in the middle of swapping in the new manual regulator and I tried to connect the crank to the gears and there's too much space in between. Do you resuse the spacers that were between the electric regulator and the tailgate body? It doesn't look like it would work without them.
Also how do you remove the lock cylinder from the housing?
Thanks
AW

[Crazy_Jeepman]

Yes you need to use the spacers, no idea on the lock cylinders. Is it a Crown conversion you have? They are junk, and generally don't last. Don't toss your electric one away to fast

[FSJeeper]

Originally posted by Crazy_Jeepman:
Is it a Crown conversion you have? They are junk, and generally don't last. Don't toss your electric one away to fastI want to go manual on my Cherokee WT, is the kit BJ's sells any good? If not, where can I get factory original quality?

[Crazy_Jeepman]

You would have to find one from a wrecking yard, I have none left. As far as I know ALL aftermarket are made by Crown.

[Masato]

I have the manual crank, I've replaced it three times with the OEM. There's a problem with the whole design 'cause the handle screws to the sheetmetal and the regulator is in a fixed position, so there's never a solid engagement and the splines in the handle get stripped. I wouldn't get rid of the electric.

To get the lock cylinder out you have to insert the key and unlock it.

In the left side with the handle pointing down there is a pinhole.

You line up the hole with the one on the body and insert a wire (like a paper clip)all the way through the handle and the lock body.

You turn the key and the cylinder shoud pop right out. Good luck.

[Rusty84]

I don't know the brand, I just bought it from my local Jeep 4x4/salvage. You can't install it backwards and if you are supposed to keep the spacers, why isn't it working?
AW

[Crazy_Jeepman]

No idea, the spline for the handle still to far away? Sounds like the spacers are not in the right spot maybe?

[Rusty84]

Its a pretty cut and dry install. The spacers are threaded, so they only fit in the right way. I am clueless. I am going to go back to the shop tomorrow. I would like to find a way to get it to work since I already removed/cut all the power guts.
AW

[JeepBountyHunter]

You do not reuse the spacers from the original, nor the screws made to go with those...I did it that way first, and of course the crank did a poor job......you must buy new 1/4 machine screws , pretty cheap at Lowes etc...the new manual regulator, mine was from BJ's, lays flat against the tailgate mount, screw it down, and hook the clips the arms, and the crank will work properly...if you have a waggy...trim back the woodgrain trim on each side of the crank by an inch and a half, don't try to crank it till you have clearance for the crank......It works just fine that way.....also get yourself a third torx screw, or just buy three new phillips screws to mount the crank...don't reuse just the two...you need three to mount the crank base properly...
Good Luck...if you need pic's let me know, because I still need to replace a clip on one regulator arm but haven't gotten to it, and will be reopening it up again......
Aaron

[Crazy_Jeepman]

I believe he has a OEM Manual Crank setup, if this is the case it DOES use spacers.

[JeepBountyHunter]

Also, as far as alignment problems, you should have some room to 'manuver' the regulator, with the mounting screws loose. Mount your crank, then stick the regulator to it, align the regulator to the glass channels, and crank the window on a test one, gently..to make sure the glass is in the right place.sometimes it might sag on one side..just note this, and tighten the regulator down when you think you have a good alignment......my problem was the lock cylinder I got with it...the clip stuck in and stay'ed in...so hence it doesn't work...but all the same, I'll modify the original lock cylinder to work for it...otherwise it cranks freely up and down..oh yah one more thing...I put white lithium grease spray in liberal amounts along the window track, and the gears and the channels.......just have fun with them darn clips...ugh.....I used a socket above the clip, and then pushed the regulator arm up into it from underneath...they snapped in okay on one side...but the other one has been misery for me so far.....one of these days!

[JeepBountyHunter]

Hmmmmmmm.....never seen the OEM set ups.......thanks Pete...

[Rusty84]

I doubt its OEM, its also shiny and new, but it was just a dusty kit he had laying around. Who knows, I will try it without the spacers.
Thanks for the help
AW

[JeepBountyHunter]

Let us know how it works....
Aaron

[mdill]

Don't use lithium or any other oil based grease on ruber parts ! (use plenty on the
gears and bearings and the slider) On the rubber parts use only food grade or pure
silicone spray (Not WD-40 which contains oil along with the silicone) Oil or petrolium
based products eat rubber for lunch.

Mike D.