Must...kill...tailgate

[Shaggin' Wagon]

OK. Got a buddy with a bad key switch. Works 1 out of 30 tries. I can't see how to get at it once you remove the lock. Should I just bypass it and if so how would I do it? How difficult would it be to replace? **** those infernal tailgates! :mad: :mad: :mad:

Keith

[Retro93]

Now for the bad news. To get the key switch out you have to remove the glass and lift mechanism. Major PITA...not a real good design.

Kim

[Shaggin' Wagon]

Had a feeling it would be. What about bypass? Thanks.

Keith

[coolram]

An idea I have for mine is using output of remote entry for back window as my key switch doesn't work either.

[MuddyWag]

The rear key switch works intermittantly, what about the switch on the dash? If it has any trouble as well, look to the safety switch on the drivers side.
These tailgates are the only things I change about our wag/chers.

[Shaggin' Wagon]

It isn't the safety switch for sure. The dash switch didn't work either but I believe that is because of a fault with the key switch. They seem to be related. Will check it out though. Anyone done a bypass?

[andy d]

the later model t/g switches are independent of each other,iirc. the older stuff ,79 and down, i think, were seriesed to gether. experience has taught me to try the safety switch first. push at the top of the left side. is there play in the gate? now try a switch. i guess ive been lucky. the previous 3 wags succumbed to rust before the t/g electrics died. onliest elct trouble has been a balky safety switch. the arm can be bent carefully to engage the stop. some guys jump them out.

[Shaggin' Wagon]

Definately not the safety switch, I bypassed it already.

[Bob Barry]

The motor has to ground through both the tailgate switch and the dash switch on the '79-up models. If either fails, the whole system goes kaput. I know because that was the problem with my '88; the nub on the tailgate switch plastic paddle broke, allowing it to move outward enough to break the normally-closed ground contact in that switch.

You could jumper the wires, but then you may as well remove and replace the switch, as you'll have to have the regulator out to do either job. Once you're in that far, though, the regulator is only six more screws (five on my '88, though there was a threaded hole in the sheetmetal for the sixth that the earlier trucks used).

I've been planning a way to replace this Rube Goldberg contraption with a pair of DPDT 5-prong Bosch relays that I would mount in the rear quarter-panel. These relays could be activated by the stock switches as well as additional switches or a remote switch. Best of all, most of the stock wiring can remain in place, and the relays would only cost a few bucks. I'll post the diagrams once I finalize them so any electical experts we have here can review them and make sure they won't blow anything up... smile.gif

[Shaggin' Wagon]

Thanks Bob. I really don't like the idea of removing the gears and glass so I may leave it up to the pros. It's not my Wag and I'd be afraid of causing more probs tthan it's already got.