YORK ?????

[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

ARE ANY OF YOU GUY'S RUNNING THE 134-A IN THE YORK??,I KNOW HOW TO DO THE CONVERSION,I HAVE ALL THE TOOL'S VAC,O RING'S,GAUGE'S*** JUST WANT TO KNOW IF IT WORKS,AND HOW IT'S HOLDING UP!!!!CAN YOU DO IT!!! GEMOBX/77/701"THIS GOOF IS ASKING ABOUT AIR AND THE ROD'S IS A RAPPING"

------------------

[87grand]

sorry i'll remove post

[This message has been edited by 87grand (edited May 08, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by 87grand (edited May 08, 2001).]

[River Beast]

No not on-board air... he is referring to converting the R-12 (freon) A/C To the enviro-friendly R-134A

I haven't done it.... I've talked to some that have converted other R-12 systems and lost about 15 degrees of cooling. they say the o-rings all need to be replaced but others disagree. I know the system must completly clean for the R-12 PAG oil due to imcompatability with the R-134A lubricant. Also the dryer replacement IS A MUST.... but that's only around $40-$50. If you have the "know-how" to do the A/C yourself.... you can save alot of $$$$... even more if you have access to the evacuation system to 'clear' the system... you would be in GREAT finacial shape for the conversion.

------------------
Todd
"River Beast" (http://home.earthlink.net/~tjnkk)
http://home.earthlink.net/~riverbeast/rbthnl.jpg
14" of total Lift on 39.5" Swampers
44's locked with 4.89's
...and other stuff...
My Original FSJ site (http://www.geocities.com/spazz4life)
riverbeast@earthlink.net
"When approaching an intersection, remember...
the vehicle with the BIGGEST TIRES has the right of way..."

'93 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban...a.k.a. "FSJ Hauler"

[Ralph]

Cool graphic, 87Grand.

GEMOBX, the answer to your question is: "Yes, you can." It's no different than any other retrofit to R134a.

But IMHO you'd be sacrificing your opportunity to keep using R12, for which your system was designed. I went online and ordered a take-home exam for $25 and got certified to buy R12. Your vehicle requires 36 oz. of R12, which can be bought at any auto parts store for about $70 (three 12 oz. cans x $22/can), or get it a bit cheaper on eBay.

Since you can legally use R12, you should do so just because it's a much more effiicient refrigerant than R134a. So, for the same effort your engine uses to turn that compressor, you'll get much more control over how cool you want to keep your vehicle's interior.

------------------
J ust
E mpty
E very
P ocket

[JEEPRZ]

I converted mine to 134a a few years ago, but im about to de-convert it back to R12. It just didnt cool enough.

------------------
Dave
83 GW
360/727/229
No longer a tow rig...now its buildup time
3"lift, 31s, 3.31s, edlebrock intake, cam, TBI, custom DIY exh, rebuilt trans, shift kit and factory aux cooler,modified 229 (no viscous coupling, *improved* vacuum system), lotsa squeaks, leaks, and rattles

[Coley]

I converted to R-134, and mine is cooling FANTASTICALLY, and I'm running a York. We didn't change out the dryer, just evacuated all the oil & such out of the compressor, put in the oil, and charged her up. I can hang meat in the Wag on a hot louisiana day. No tint to help it, either. Think she's blowing ab. 38-42 degrees.


------------------
Daddy's Ice Cream Truck (3 yr old daugter named it)
360 727 NP229
Totally stock
"You're obsessed with that thing!"

[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

THANKS, YOU GUY'S!! RIVER BEAST, YOU'RE RIGHT ON THE DRYER,BUT I'LL TRY TO USE THE OLD ONE.AS FOR THE O RINGS,I THINK THEY SHOULD BE REPLACED. RALPH,AS YOU KNOW THE 134-A IS OH,$2.50 TO $4.00 A CAN, HELL WHY NOT GIVE IT A SHOT.JEEPRZ, I THINK YOU HAVE TO PULL THE VAC, FOR A GOOD HR OR MORE,AS FAR AS COOLING GOE'S, THAT'S JUST MY THINKING.AND COLEY,WELL IT WORKED FOR YOU. GEMOBX/77/401

------------------

[Ralph]

JEEPRZ, if you're going to switch back I'd recommend that you have a professional A/C technician do the work for you. Not that it's difficult to do, but you'll want some kind of warranty involved in the job in case the R12 mixes with even a teeny tiny amount of R134a residue -- it'll cause severe internal corrosion and ruin your entire A/C system. So a really thorough flushing and vacuum draw (to boil out moisture) is in order.

You might have the level of R134a checked first, just to make sure your system is full.

------------------
J ust
E mpty
E very
P ocket

[JEEPRZ]

Due to the boiling point of both of these refridgerants, its tough to have any residue of either. Its quite simple to flush the oil out as well. I think part of my problem may be my compressor. The reed valves are not in the best shape, and I dont think the system is buildin enough pressure for the 134a. I have a new set of valves which will be goin in before the 12 does, so that problem will be fixed regardless.

------------------
Dave
83 GW
360/727/229
No longer a tow rig...now its buildup time,axle swap and possible coil conversion??
3"lift, 31s, 3.31s, edlebrock intake, cam, TBI, custom DIY exh, rebuilt trans, shift kit and factory aux cooler,modified 229 (no viscous coupling, *improved* vacuum system), lotsa squeaks, leaks, and rattles

[Coley]

Notes:
I also had to:
1. Splice the top hose on the compressor because it had blown (made it longer, routed it further away from the engine above the passenger wheel well). I've seen this setup on a few boneyard wags. Mine blew because it was so near the engine and rubbed up against the AIR injection tubes. Routing it away from the engine heat may also be one reason mine cools better than some folks' rigs.

2. Replace the fitting for the top hose to the compressor-the metal piece that actually screws into the compressor (new hose had a different size nut)

3. Replace the o-rings for the new fitting.

4. To evacuate the old oil, we hooked a fitting onto an air compressor hose that had a small hose attached to the bottom. This let us suck up the oil and blow it out the nozzle.

5. Put a vacuum on it.

------------------
Daddy's Ice Cream Truck (3 yr old daugter named it)
360 727 NP229
Totally stock
"You're obsessed with that thing!"

[This message has been edited by Coley (edited May 08, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by Coley (edited May 08, 2001).]

[DLyons]

This may be a stupid question, but what fitting on the york is the low side for charging? My AC would keep ice cream frozen last summer. This year it dosn't cool at all. I may have moved the compressor around too much this winter while replacing the waterpump. Who cares about AC in December when it's ten below.

------------------
DaveLyons
84 Grand Wagoneer
74 Grill & Round Headlights
360-727-229-3.31s
2" Suspension Lift
2 1/2" Body Lift(HomeMade)
Krylon Burgundy
Product of "Redneck Engineering"
88 Chevy Beretta GT (Work car, gas mileage, high speed cornering)

[jeeper28]

just finished doing retro 134,rebuilt york compressor.I replaced dryer as most said might as well and I did not want any more problems like last summer(80 bucks for r-12!)output temp was 34.7 gotta love it.My friend did same to 79 wag last year and it is holding up great,my only recommendation is to replace dryer at time of conversion to save headaches down da road!

------------------
360,th400,31x10.50,no lift ..yet,the big brown turd

[rawdave]

did the 134-a conversion and it works great.

------------------
87 Grand Wagoneer
TFI Upgrade
Thorley Headers
Working on GM Multi-Port EFI

[Mud Thrasher]

Ok for those of you who didn't change out your dryers I'll try to explain why you should have or still should. Anytime that you open an a/c system it allows moisture into your system. Your accumalator/dryer does exactly as it says. It collects any moisture in your system. Moisture in your system causes a chemical reaction with the freon that creates an acid which in turn corrodes your system. If properly done 134 refridgerent works just as well as R-12. For those of you who don't want to do the 134 conversion then there are other products out there that are available. One such is HotShot. There are others but cannot remember the names right now. Also, not changing the dryer WILL cause premature compressor failure.

------------------
'78 Chief 360/quadra-trac
D-44 f&r/3.55 r&p/31x10.5x15 G/Year Mt's
dual exhaust
Mallory Unilite Dist.
Edelbrock 4bbl 1405 carb
lined gas tank
free rust/new body soon

[Panoscopic]

Hey guys, I wish I would have read this before I went to a shop for a 134 conversion. The guy seemed to know what he was doing, but the results were not good. He evacuated the R12, and installed the new oil and 2.5 lbs of 134. The output only gets as good as 58 degress for a little while - the system has a very short cycle time now and seems to run cold during the cycle, but cycles off after a very short time. It is not hot here in Chicago yet, but I know this won't work when it gets hot. What should I do now? I've read a lot and this conversion seems more of an art than a science because there a so many differing results.

Panoscopic

[bchesley]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Ralph:
JEEPRZ, if you're going to switch back I'd recommend that you have a professional A/C technician do the work for you. Not that it's difficult to do, but you'll want some kind of warranty involved in the job in case the R12 mixes with even a teeny tiny amount of R134a residue -- it'll cause severe internal corrosion and ruin your entire A/C system. So a really thorough flushing and vacuum draw (to boil out moisture) is in order.

You might have the level of R134a checked first, just to make sure your system is full.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

How much should it have in it. Mine takes a long time to cool down. I will eventualy get cold enough to cool the truck but not what it should be.

Brad

------------------
1989 GW
No Mods Yet!!