JOY'S of Jeep Mechanics!

[jeepjake]

Well......, to "save money", I decided to pull a crank from a junyard engine.

Since they were all still bolted up, I had to completely pull one (engine), yank it out, then strip the crank. Crank cost $15 (and 1 complete days labor). Stitches cost $75 (co-pay). So I saved myself $100 over a re-ground crank (not including the day it took to get the crank!)

http://complaint.virtualave.net/images/stitch1.JPG

More pics on the engine project as it procedes, but here's pics of the block with the oil mods:

http://complaint.virtualave.net/images/oilmods2.JPG

http://complaint.virtualave.net/images/oilmods3.JPG

[trssho]

Why are you using a junk yard crank if you are doing a complete overhaul. Both the 360's I have rebuilt hade wasted cranks.
As for the stiches... OUCH!!!

[jeepjake]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by trssho:
Why are you using a junk yard crank if you are doing a complete overhaul......<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Because I didn't want a .020 or .030 undersize (what you get with a "re-ground" crank), so I found a "pristine" one in a JY 360 that was wrecked (will polish up fine with NO grinding.)

The one I took out of the motor I'm building had an egg-shaped journal, TOTALLY wasted!

Had a 401 crank and looked into stroking the 360, but it was a nightmare trying to get it all together, especially before winter hits here.

The 401 I have in my '74 has already been bored to .030 (about 10 years ago), so it's not a candidate.

[Slippery]

Thanks for the pics, jake...I'm planning on doing the oil bypass, as soon as I figure out how to drill/tap an assembled engine without getting schrapnel all over the inside. I would also do the drainback holes if it was torn down.

Did you have any trouble locating the lifter-galley hole? Is there a way to measure it, or did you just eyeball it?

[jeepjake]

Slippery:

Pretty much just eyeballed it, you can see the oil feed through pretty cleary through the lifter bores. I did center punch it before hand and used a carbide tap drill.

I bought the kit from american performance, but felt jipped when I got it (paid $32 shipped!). It's just a piece of copper tubing and two brass fittings, all of which could be purchased for $3 max at any hardware store.

Will post pics and specs for everyone to go buy their own. The pics I've seen were of a steel braided line with AN fittings, not this hardware store stuff, I guess I didn't read far enough into it before ordering.

Anyway, DON'T EVEN TRY to do this with an assembled block, there is NO WAY you'll get all the chips out of the oil system and then you WILL have an un-assembled block!

[JohnnyJ]

I think it is similar to the punchline from the old joke about the retired mechanic who is asked to come back and fix a machine he once worked on. It had broken and none of the current mechanics could figure out what was wrong with it. So, he comes back and looks at the machine, puts a big chalk X on the broken part and tells the manager that he needs to fix the part with the X on it and gives him a bill for $5000. The manager squalks and asks for a breakdown on the labor charges. The old mechanic responds "chalk mark $1, knowing where to put it: $4999"

[jeepjake]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JohnnyJ:
..... The old mechanic responds "chalk mark $1, knowing where to put it: $4999"<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hah!!!