More Carb Problems

[grand_wag_85]

I got the gw running yesterday, I've been having some real trouble lately w/ the carb. I drove it around the block yesterday& it was fine, it stalled after running a while in my driveway afterwards. Now whenever I got to start it it sputters& dies after 5 or so seconds. If I put a good bit of quick-start in there it'll run for maybe 15 seconds or till when I step on the gas& it stalls, it's kinda gasping for air, or gas or something.

I coulda swore that I saw some quick-start coming outa the back of the carb when I sprayed it.

Yes, I have plenty of gas.

[brad_fsj10]

3 things I can think of:

I don't really know about what you may have seen concerning the Quick-Start but as far as the other stuff, have you been moving vacuum lines and wires around near the carburetor...

Check to see that all of the vacuum lines on or near your carb are in place. Secondly, associated with vacuum, the EGR's temp control valve may have failed open allowing manifold vacuum to the egr valve. After the engine is warm this valve should close and only allow ported vacuum.

Check to see if the wire to your choke is attached and gets 8-14 volts with the key on. If this wire is disconnected, the choke will cause the carb to load up after the engine warms up and cause flooding.

Check to see that your accellerator pump is working by looking down the throat of the carb (engine NOT running) and twisting the throttle. Is there a healthy squirt of gas? If not a new pump diaphram is in order.

[ March 16, 2004, 11:22 AM: Message edited by: brad_fsj10 ]

[J4GRAND]

Watch using large amounts of starting fluid. Most are ether-based and will flush oil from the cylinder walls if spray directly into the carb. This can really chew the cylinder walls up. If using starting fluid, try to spray in the air cleaner nozzle so it will vaporize before going into the engine.

[grand_wag_85]

$HIT! now I know not to use large amounts of that stuff! I just got in from "forcing it to run", I used quick-start to get it running @ first, then I sprayed a bunch down while I had someone step on the gas, the engine reved when the gas was stepped on ONLY while there was quick-start going down the carb, when I stopped it stalled w/a real healthy blast.

The only vaccum lines that are not connected are as follows:

My purge control valve is gone so the vac line is duct-taped to the spout under where the cap would go

I disconnected the lines@ the vac storage tank(black soup can looking thiny) the other day when it ran, I checked the vaccum on the hose then reconnected it

There is a decent sized vaccum line coming off of my front differential, it's been sliced& I got no clue where this goes

There are 2 white or blue I'm guessing vaccum hose nozzles off of the back of the carb housing, on the inside of it it says ford

It made it cross country twice(there& back) like this& these are the first major problem(s) the wag has ever given me while I've owned it

How much would a new fuel pump be?

Sorry about the LENGTHY post

[arter]

New fuel pump runs about $20 at most auto parts stores. Check the oil, if it smells of gas and/or is a higher level than you think it should be you may have a ruptured diaghram in the fuel pump.

[Buggzz]

Originally posted by grand_wag_85:
The only vaccum lines that are not connected are as follows:

My purge control valve is gone so the vac line is duct-taped to the spout under where the cap would goMake sure the hose is plugged up really well, That valve runs right off the carb base, little leaks there will really screw up a mixture. BB's or bolts work well.

I disconnected the lines@ the vac storage tank(black soup can looking thiny) the other day when it ran, I checked the vaccum on the hose then reconnected it

There is a decent sized vaccum line coming off of my front differential, it's been sliced& I got no clue where this goesThis is the Diff Vent. It is there to let the diff breath when it gets hot. It should just end somewhere around the wiper fluid res.

As far as starting and dying after a few seconds, I would think you have a big vacuum leak somewhere. I would invest in a vacuum pump/gauge ($28 at autozone) and a timing light (About $30) before I started replacing parts.

Just about all the engine controls on these things involves some vacuum gizmoes, and you can't check ignition timing without a lite. In my mind, that makes them indispensible tools.

On my Wag, I have found so many vacuum leaks that I am amazed it ever ran at all. Best of luck.

[electricdude]

It appears you've tried pretty much everything...
check the rubber hoses coming from the tank, so lift the back seat and the carpet so you can access the sender unit, you'll see the rubber hoses, with time they crack and therefore the fuel pump pumps air more than gas. That happened to me before.

Hope this helps,

Electric Dude.