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jode
11-07-2002, 10:14 AM
I am looking to start on the infamous TFI and I wanted to know if there is anyone who has done the TFI in stages.

What I mean is, is there someone who first did just the TFI, wires, and plugs portion without installing the upgraded ignition module, and then later (after having driven for a while) upgraded the ignition module.

What I am trying to get at here is the performance increase of the expensive ignition module (if there is one). I have always heard people talking about the cost of the TFI upgrade as somewhere around $100, but the MSD 6 costs more than that by itself....what gives?

As far as I understand, the TFI, plugs, cap, rotor, and wires is a pretty good install in and of itself...is this right....

Forgive me, but I found that writeup in the tech section a little hard to understand and I will be doing lots of research through all the posts on this topic, but any quick summaries of what y'all ended up spending (total cost and what it bought you) and any quick tips would be appreciated.
Thanks smile.gif

EDIT...
I jsut did a calculation from IRBOB's site and came up with $100 in new parts when a new ignition module is NOT bought. THat means that it shoudl come to around $240 with the new MSD 6 module :eek: IS that really the case and is that MSD REALLY worth an extra $140? :confused:

Oh yeah...one more thing...everything is always talking about 78 and up distributors, but I have a 76. It is not a points-type, so what is the difference? Also, I am going to buy a new distributor (the vac advance nipple is busted off the one I have now :eek: ) so should I just buy the dist for a newer (1979+) wagoneer?

Thanks again!

[ November 07, 2002, 05:40 PM: Message edited by: jode ]

jeepbob
11-07-2002, 10:51 AM
I run the TFI with a dura spark (stock box) and got quite an improvement. You can do the TFI for less than $50 if you are willing to use some used parts like the cap adapter and coil. Just get a good quality cap and rotor kit and Autolite wires. The Autolites are 8.5mm insulation and lifetime warrented. I kicked up my performance a little more by going to AC RapidFire plugs. There is a noticable difference in throttle responce and starting and my engine no longer breaks up at 5200 rpm. The 360 in the Wag makes power to about 5300 and noses over at about 5600. The 304 in the CJ makes power to 6000+ and this scares me as it is quiet enough and revs quick enough that you must watch the tach closely

jode
11-07-2002, 10:51 AM
Dang...lotso questions today.....do I really need to get my engine to TDC to change the dist? I would think that I could pull the one and drop the other one right in as long as the rotor is installed pointing in the same direction as the old one was....right?

jeepbob
11-07-2002, 10:52 AM
Yes you can.

jode
11-07-2002, 10:57 AM
ok...another one...
So if I buy the 78+ Motorcraft distributor, will it work with my stock 76 ignition module? Or will I need the new dizzy and a new Duraspark module.

(PS i dont know if the module I am runnning now is the crappy Prestolite or the good duraspark....all I know is that I have had to replace it several times B4)

Sorry for the haphazardness of this post, but I am sure you will understand? tongue.gif

turtle jim
11-07-2002, 11:48 AM
Hi Jode,
I recently did the tfi upgrade on my 76 wag and I know the problems you are about to face.I did the upgrade to get away from the problems inherent to the prestolight system.All the parts I used came from the boneyard and cost less than $25.

You can do it in stages as I have done.Currently I am in the running prototype stage.I do not have MSD.

The first stage is a big step for your wag.(same as mine)Ya gotta have the motorcraft distributor from a 79 or later wag, and duraspark control module and you SHOULD have the tfi coil.This is the main stage of the upgrade.

Now you can improve the dist with the adapter and big cap.The big cap will let you use hei style plug wires.

You will need to do a small amount of rewiring.My experience is that you will need a resistor between the hot 12v wire and the coil and also the red wire to the module.

Everything here,except the dist is available from mid to late 80s v8 fords.You can make it run for real cheap and then make improvements as the budget allows.

OH yeah,the difference in distributors is the manufacture.Jeep uses a lot other makers stuff and about 79 they started using the motorcraft dist.Their use of the ford dist allows us to use all the better ford stuff to upgrade.

letank
11-07-2002, 12:06 PM
i think you would be happier with a AMC or duraspark module than the MSD. I put an MSD and did not really notice a difference...... the biggest bang for the buck was the MSD blaster 2 coil

of course i am still running the point distributor with the pertronix magnet,... and this was a real plus

If you have the prestolite distributor you have the big black vaccum diaphragm

Michel
74wag

jode
11-08-2002, 05:10 AM
I keep hearing about these resistors, but what do they look like and does anyone have a P/N? Or will I just see them while I am at the junkyard?

BTW, my distributor has a big white plastic vacuum diagphram.

So what module do I have now? How do I tell if it is a Duraspark or otherwise?

Thanks

turtlejoe
11-08-2002, 05:24 AM
Jode, you may want to read the following post as well:

http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=014267

jode
11-08-2002, 06:43 AM
WHat's with turtle joe and turtle jim?

So resistor = Napa resistor # icr 24, and it gets installed in between the battery and the (+) of the coil?

turtlejoe
11-08-2002, 06:48 AM
LOL! As for me, TurtleJoe, it's just a nickname my loving older siblings gave me when I was 4 or 5. Don't really remember why ... I don't THINK we're related ... what say you, TurtleJim??

kong
11-08-2002, 06:53 AM
joe,

not all jeeps need the resistor. It is just kind of hit and miss. Nelson's '78 didn't need it, but his '86 did. Mine didn't need it, but Crane said that I might....
My advise is to get the resistor, but not splice it in till after you start the thing up. If it doesn't turn off, splice it in then, 'cause if you splice it in and don't need it. You have to take the dad-burn thing out.
It goes between the switched 12+ to coil.

Kong

jode
11-08-2002, 10:18 AM
Clear as mud
:confused:
:(

turtle jim
11-08-2002, 12:44 PM
My turn I guess.
In the 60s I explored desert back roads on a verrry tight budget,and learned that;
"Nobody ever breaks down from driving too slow"

jode
11-08-2002, 03:21 PM
Now what in the POoSticks is THAT supposed to mean?
:confused: