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View Full Version : How long to wait for oil change on new engine?


Benchill
05-28-2001, 11:57 AM
Just got the Wagoneer back this weekend after putting in a 360 long block. Bought the long block from PowerPro ( http://www.powerpro2000.com/long_block_engines.htm ). By the way, came without front cover or valley pan. Jasper's come with.
I want to run synthetic in it. I know to change the break in oil at 500 or 600 miles. Is it okay then to switch to synthetic. Is everything seated by then?

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1989 Grand Wagoneer
High Altitude Model
Still completly stock

joe
05-28-2001, 12:12 PM
What "I" would do and that doesn't mean it's right or what others would do but I'd run it on dino oil for 1500-2000 miles and then go to syn.

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Regards,
-joe
63 2-dr Wag, 72 J-4000, 73 J-4000, 82 CJ-8

Stuka
05-28-2001, 12:32 PM
Everybody has there own opinion, but this is what "I" do when i brake in a motor. When I first start it up, I run it for 20 minutes using Valvoline Non-Detergent oil. Then change the oil (gets rid of all that assembly oil and any thing that might have gotten inside the motor) The second time I Penzoil, and run it for 2 hours at 2000 rpm in neutral. Then change the oil again. Then run it for another 2 hours changing rpm every 30 minutes. Starting at idle, then working my way up to 2500 RPM. This allows the rings to seat better before you go off driving it. After that, I then drive it easy for the first 1000 miles. Change oil again with Castrol GTX, and the motor is good to go. Building motors this way is kinda in the family. Was passed down to me from my uncle. All the motors he has built have lasted a long time (I dont think any of them have blown yet, over the past 25 years)

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<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
1975 Cherokee
360 w/ Edelbrock Performer Intake and Carb
T18a
Spicer 20 T-Case
Dana44 w/3.54 Gears
[/list]

[This message has been edited by Stuka (edited May 28, 2001).]

YaZahX
05-28-2001, 01:21 PM
what i would do is go 2000 in first oil then switch to syn..

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John Z.
My 82 Larado (http://www.virtue.nu/yazahx/jeep1.htm)
YaZahX@aol.com
"Yes that is a Real Jeep, yes the Jeep is older than me."
1982 Cherokee Larado
Edelbrock cam
Edelbrock intake manifold
Holley Projection
31” BFGoodrich

joe
05-28-2001, 01:24 PM
Let me clear my above post up a bit. When I said run dino for 1500+ that meant after you've done the brake-in oil changes etc and have settled on an oil to run regularly. Then switch to syn after 1500-2000 miles.
So far as opinions on beaking a fresh motor in is like the syn-vs-dino, warn-vs-ramsey thread or worse and I'm not going there http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/wink.gif

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Regards,
-joe
63 2-dr Wag, 72 J-4000, 73 J-4000, 82 CJ-8

YaZahX
05-28-2001, 01:29 PM
i would go with warn! http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/smile.gif
it should be fine, they say(mixed on this) you can put syn in at any time... so my guess is that everything should be seated..(listen to others on this one)

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John Z.
My 82 Larado (http://www.virtue.nu/yazahx/jeep1.htm)
YaZahX@aol.com
"Yes that is a Real Jeep, yes the Jeep is older than me."
1982 Cherokee Larado
Edelbrock cam
Edelbrock intake manifold
Holley Projection
31” BFGoodrich

Snakeyes_Tx
05-28-2001, 03:23 PM
At the place I had my motor rebuilt, and at the dealership I worked for, we both recommended this set-up.

Break-in 0W-30 or 5W-30 - Start motor and run at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. Change filter and oil to:

10W30 Dino Oil - Run for 500 miles - Change filter and oil to:

10W30 Dino Oil - Run for 3000 miles - Change filter and oil to:

10W30 Mobil1 Synthetic Oil (It says you can change synthetic every 5,000 miles rather than 3, but I still do it every 3,000 anyway)

I had a 350 in my project car, and put well over 250,000 miles on it. When I took it apart, it still looked practically brand new inside. Synthetic has proven itself to me.

Also, this is the method I had done the break-in on my new 360 as well... it worked out very well in there too.

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http://www.virtue.nu/yazahx/rand/sig.jpg

Snakeyes_Tx
86 J-20 "The Rusty Dinosaur"
360/727/208/44HD/60 &lt;- 2nd of all of them.
"If you don't know what the numbers mean, you don't need to be here!"

[This message has been edited by Snakeyes_Tx (edited May 28, 2001).]

Slippery
05-28-2001, 03:29 PM
Stuka: Your break-in running time/mileage sounds fair, but what's with the Valvoline/Pennzoil/Castrol thing? Just "family tradition", or is there something more? Not mocking you, just curious.

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Jason K.
http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/e46e6dee/bc/My+Photos/Festiva.jpg?bcw0GX7Ax3rIxilV
'88 Ford Festiva
40mpg work car
Cost $150, paid for itself already
-----------------------------
'90 Chevy Lumina
Biggest POS in the 115-year history of the automobile
4 cylinders, less than adequate for a car half its size
Crappy rear disc brakes, $19M class-action lawsuit settled
------------------------------
Some other junk not worth mentioning

[This message has been edited by Slippery (edited May 28, 2001).]

Stuka
05-28-2001, 03:39 PM
I use valvoline for the non detergent because its has good carbon build up. So it will coat the back side of the valves like a non-stick frying pan. And penzoil also has a high carbon factor. And as for the castrol, I have never had a problem with it. And it seems to work very well. Motors have lasted well past 250k useing just castrol (except brake in) i spose I could get my uncle to write up the exact reason for all the stuff mentioned ahead, as he has only told me what i just wrote.

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<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
1975 Cherokee
360 w/ Edelbrock Performer Intake and Carb
T18a
Spicer 20 T-Case
Dana44 w/3.54 Gears
[/list]

[This message has been edited by Stuka (edited May 28, 2001).]

SpruceMoose
05-28-2001, 11:23 PM
just make sure that your oil consumption has stabilized (dropped to normal levels) before you switch to synthetic. if you switch too soon, the break-in process may not finish, and you will be stuck with high oil consumption.

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88 Grand Wagoneer
"Spruce Moose"
http://www.FSJtheMoose.homestead.com/files/small_jeep_in_woods_1_cropped.gif

See the Moose at: http://www.FSJtheMoose.homestead.com/pics.html

AMC 360, DANA 44 F/R 2.72, TF 727, NP 229
Jacobs Pro-Street Ignition, Edelbrock 4bbl Intake with Holley 2bbl Analog Pro-Jection
Flowmaster 2.5" 50 Series Delta muffler and tubing
Amzoil foam air filter, Amzoil fluids all around
30x9.5 BFG AT
HF,VHF,UHF ham rigs and too many antennas (not)
8-Ball shift knob from college (1975)
Hella aux. driving lights

Next: 3" Rough Country 4-spring lift, Killer32 Bumpers and nerfs, 31 or 32" A/Ts

Mileage? We don't need no stinkin' mileage!