Fuel Line Swap

[MK10000]

As if I don't have enough to think about with all that I am planing to do this week on my FSJ, I can't help but start thinking about the next step, which is the fuel system. Afraid I may have a case of "THE CRUDS" in my lines and probably tank.
A friend of mine with an older GW suggested that I Drop the fuel tank and have is boiled out and replace the fuel lines. He attributed this to when fuel changed from leaded to unleaded. He had some trouble from his motor before, and said that this, of course, solved some performance problems he was having. So why not - at least thats a step in the right direction with my "extremely driven super high milage 84 GW"
It seems to me a miracle that these things keep going and going - I LOVE MY WAGGY smile.gif
He said when he replaced his fuel line that he went to the hardware store and bought some copper tubing and fittings and that it worked like a charm. Only drawback I can think of is that the copper line could be crushed so easily if its not placed carefully. YOU guys see any potential problems? Also I think there are two lines (one a return?) He did away with the return line - should I?

[Slippery]

Just use steel lines, and keep the return line. No point in trying to engineer something different when the stock arrangement is simple & effective.

You can't get your tank boiled out--it's plastic. ;)

[ July 08, 2001: Message edited by: Slippery ]

[MK10000]

Hmm, plastic huh?? Well i guess I will have to clean it another way. smile.gif

[andy d]

when was the last time the fuel filter was changed? 5$/5minutes. why does everybody (myself included) head for the hardest/most expensive solution? does this tell us something about the human psyche? P.s. unless the filler neck was altered your 84 has never seen leaded fuel

[MK10000]

Anybody have any idea how much it will cost me to replace the steel lines if i need to?
One thing I would like to add to my previous posting is that I am going to be doing an engine swap soon. Is it not a good idea to make sure my fuel tank and lines are clean before doing this? I cant see where it could cost me that much to do this. Am I really just making life more difficult for myself?

[ironroad29]

your making things way to difficut for yourself the main thing you have to worry about with a fuel lank is rust and leaks ,it's plastic so no rust ,and it doesn't leak does it ,buy the way i just came back from looking at your girlfriends brothers wag ..think i might get it .call me

[SpruceMoose]

dont use copper for anything! it work-hardens with vibration, and then will crack. and it will dent easily, as mentioned before.

[jeepbob]

In addition to the problems that SpruceMoose was talking about if the fuel is left in a copper line for an extended period of time it will turn into a jello like goo.
Use steel brake line of the same size as what you have and use brass fittings to couple them. The cost should be less than $20.

[wagdriver]

Sprucemoose is absolutely right on this issue. DO NOT USE COPPER FOR FUEL LINES!! It is fire hazard waiting to happen. Car fires ain't pretty. The difference in cost does not even enter into the equation. Use steel, and by the way as a wake up call to all of us, when was the last time you checked the rubber hoses in the fuel lines in the engine compartment especially the ones between the fuel pump and the carburator. I am replacing mine this week end. I had one car catch on fire because of these lines the only thing that saved it was I had just pulled in to the driveway when it started, fortunately I got the hose and put it out before any serious damaged resulted, if you are out on the road you may not have any thing handy to put it out with. :eek: :eek: :eek:

[nograin]

Add me on to those who think you're barking up the wrong tree. The earlier Wags had steel tanks, but yours is plastic. IF your hoses are going, then consider replacing them. The short steel line is probably OK. Take a look inside it if you want. Do replace the filter and make sure the vapor line points up. The one place that fuel may varnish and make something not work right, is in the carb. Also, when you open the carb bowl up and look down at the bottom you will get a sense of how much rust etc is coming through. With a new filter and carb cleaned up, check it again in 6 months or a year if you are still worried. Black bits may suggest the hoses are disintegrating, although your filter ought to catch most of them.

[64Trvlr]

I used 3/8 steel brake line when I ran my new fuel line. I replaced all the lines and used new rubber for the carb. When I ran the lines I rerouted them away from the high heat areas and insulated them so I wouldn't have anymore vapor lock problems. They work great and are maintance and worry free. :cool: