Lift Kit installation... my experience

[Treadted2]

Well, I attempted to install a Rough Country 3" lift kit on my wagoneer this weekend, and was only able to do half of it. The front went on great without any problems what so ever. It's strange, because isn't the rear usually the easy one and the front is the pain?? Anyway, I got to the rear, and I didn't even know that the fuel tank had to be dropped in order to get to the front bolt off of the drivers side leaf spring. My tank shield and bolts were so corroded that it was nearly impossible to get it off. The bolts were frozen and impossible to get to, and we couldn't cut them because the gas is right there. The passengers side came off ok, but we had to do ALOT of banging and cutting of bolts. We gave up and took it to a 4wd specialty shop. I called this morning and they said they would not be able to get to it for 2 weeks!! The were booked solid. Luckily I called a mechanic I have been going to, and he said he would be able to do the rear tomorrow. That was a relief, but I am a bit apprehensive for what this is goin to cost me.

Do you think I will have to get a new fuel tank? If not, should I put a new one in anyway? If I do, what kind off money are we talking?

This has certainly been a learning experience.


Thanks for any help.

Ted

[Ralph]

I'm at exactly the same dilemma, Ted. I've had a nice set of rear leafsprings for several months (already replaced the front) that I haven't installed because I've got to deal with the gas tank skidplate. All the bolts are badly rusted, and the plate itself is about to fall off along the frame rail. This is a 'must do' project for me as soon as I can get a good used plate (new ones way too costly).

You won't have to get a new gas tank, unless you punctured it somehow. It's plastic and doesn't rust.

[Treadted2]

well,that's a relief. The skid plate is a seperate piece? For some reason I thought it was part of the tank. Oh, well, that's a good thing. Thanks for the info.

Ted

[ClarkGriswald]

Many of us are in that same boat.. I havent afforded new springs yet but when I do I have a mess back there.. My orig skidplate is missing and there is metal that looks a lot like alum siding or coated steel brakemetal used in siding.. its folded into a little box and has 3 plumbing straps holding it up (can we all say YIKES). I am following closely to RiverBeast's use of a 80s ford fullsize bronco gas tank.. it fits in the rear where the spare used to go. And uses the stock ford skidplate. Because I hate my stock stupid tank too.. and getting rid of that tank there will make some room for toys like air tanks and such, and exhaust pipes. Im about to rip it outta there and put a plastic gas can in the back with a rubber hose hanging out of it.. dont laugh thats what we do for demo-derby cars heheheh..


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88 Grand Wagoneer
D44's front\rear
Warn 20990 Lockouts
AMC 360
TF 727
NP 229--Soon to be replaced by an NP208 that currently inhabits my kitchen.

"I came, I saw, I typed some stuff!"

[Veepster]

Clark you are starting to scare me......DemoDerby cars?
Wehn I was racing stock cars, sometimes the track would also put on a Demo derby(they also do boat trailer races, train races etc)
and at the drivers meeting you could always tell who the derby drivers were.....definitely a different breed......pouring chlorine in the gene pool comes to mind! ;)

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Peace.............BartG

the Green Flash!
78 Chero
360 2v, 400 QT with low

4" skyjacker
33x12.50 BFG KO's
Thorley headers, 3" exhaust
Infiniti power leather seats
50%LuxuryCar,50%Tractor

[Manhattan]

TreadTed,

I ran into the same problem... exactly. We did the front first because it's typically the tougher end - no significant problem. Then we did the back - 5 hours later we had made little progress.

I'll assume right now your thinking "well, %#*@ why didn't you mention that last week when we discussed this!?!" Good question. I guess like other traumatic experiences - I blocked it out.

In the end, we got the old bolts out and new ones in. I did not have to remove the tank. I got the tank side bolt out... I could not get it back in. I let the driver side of the tank down a bit using a floor jack and piece of board for support. I loosened the passenger side but did not remove the bolts. I took off the sending unit access panel (under the carpet under the rear seat - 4 screws/rivets) reached my arm in and got a wrench on the nut! One hour and lots of cuts and scrapes later, I had the spring tight. I did that part alone! It would have been much easier with a second set of hands.

I think I forgot about that because what came next really depressed me... the test drive... and severe vibration.

This part I mentioned to you. I used the big 6 degree shim that came stuck to the springs. I didn't get over 10 mph. I turned around, removed the wedge and it's fine.

If you are getting help from a competent mechanic, ask him to measure the angles and suggest the correct shim, if any. I may have been better with 1 or 2 degrees... time may tell.

Sorry about the omission of detail... really did forget. I'm doing a write-up on the install for FSJ Magazine. Perhaps we could collaborate - got any photos?

[Treadted2]

Hey Manhatten,

What's this about shims?? I didn't see any with my kit. I have a mechanic putting them in today. Should I call him and ask him about this? I hope I don't run into the same problem. Thanks for your help.

Ted

[Manhattan]

Yes. Call him. He should be able to measure and calculate the correct angles.

The common mistake is to attempt to point the pinion at the t-case. This is great as long as the t-case is equally pointed at the pinion. In most cases the t-case is almost parallel to the ground/frame.

My RC kit came with a shim that angled the pinion toward the ground way too much. This was the right idea, just too much. Steep angles are bad. But non-equal angles are worse.

This is pretty simple math. The mechanic should have a driveshaft angle. He'll measure and determine that you need a 1 or 2 degree shim or none at all. The shims are very easy to get and are very cheap.

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a.k.a."Bushwood" '88 G-Wag' New 360, 3" Springs, 31"s, Custom Roof Rack... rest stock.