Engine Rebuilding Tools???

[jhatcher]

This fall I want to rebuild my first engine. I am trying to get a list of all the possible specialty tools that I might need so that when the time comes I will have everything. The following is what I have come up with so far. Please feel free to add anything or make comments.

Engine Stand
piston compressor (any idea what size in inches most pistons are on a v8? Also are the wrench kind that you squeze better than the kind with a nut you turn with a wrench?)
piston pin press (I have shop press so that is covered)
internal micrometer (What range of micrometers would be good to have?)
external micrometer (again what range?)
torque wrench (max torque possibly needed? I have a torque wrench just not sure if it is big enough. I guess I can go thru my book and look at all the torque ratings. I just thought someone might know off hand)
plastigage
feeler guage (I have)
dial indicator (I have)
Valve Spring Compressor

Thanks for the help

[rhamby]

What all are you planning to do as part of your rebuild? Are you going to redo the valves and seats yourself for example? I think some of it comes down to how much work your machine shop's going to do, and what all you plan to replace.

There are very very few special tools needed to disconnect, remove, and disassemble the engine from an FSJ assuming you have nuts and bolts that play nicely. My biggest needs come in the form of freeing sticky bolts and studs - definitely have a tap and die set and use it for all your bolts and threaded holes. It pays HUGE dividends, and will let you know if you have stripped condition long before you're reassembling. It really sucks to have a sealed or gasketed component cured or compressed in place to discover one of the holes is stripped. Get and use liberal amounts of PB Blaster! I would be ready to potentially use a helicoil or two.
Aside from a wide selection of wrenches, sockets, etc., I come across endless uses of a rubber mallet, anti-seize compound, building lube, and cleaning materials to wash parts. A good selection of 6-point deep well sockets up to 1.5" came in handy many times, as well as a good breaking bar.
It's hard to know what standard tools you have so I won't go too far in that. I also have no idea what kind of engine stand you have, but use a good, substancial model with a strong neck, and have strong jigs for it. I used to use a cheap job I bought that was weight-rated for a standard V8. Yeah, it might hold one up but it bends and is precarius to use if I want to turn the motor over.
On the engine rebuild, a good 150lbs torque wrench is plenty. But, I would rec. you get a good in-lbs. torque wrench, too. Many specs are best handled with a smaller wrench because most larger TW's start at 20lbs.
Have a couple sizes of gear/pulley pullers ready, too. I'm sure more things will come up, but these are my first thoughts.

[gsmikie]

get a real nice boring bar/sunnen ck 10 / and a beadblast/ultra sound valve and seat grinders cam bearing tool inside/outside mic's 250lb on the tourque wrench set of hones stove for the wrist pins so you dont distort the pistons when you press them on the rods castic soda parts washer line boring tool a real nice set of adjustable reamers a head and flywheel surfacing machine and a place to put all this stuff you should be able to pick most of this stuff up at a good price cause these days most shops dont use it anymore its cheaper to have the machine work done than it is to do it your self they use to hot tank bore and install cam bearinge in a block for $100.00 i think it $150.00 now and unless you have 90% of the tools or access to them and the knowlodge its still cheaper to have it done and while you are at it get it balanced $100.00-$150.00 it sure makes the old iron live longer these days 1990 and up most of the cars made after that date will never see a machine shop the computer made those cars run 20000-30000-40000 miles and you can buy a motor for them for $600.00 - $2500.00 its still cheaper to convert in the long run and better dont belive me ??? how many people take the fi off their cars and put carbs on them or remove the smog on a car 1990 or newer ...... but if you want i will sell you my valve and seat grinder /cam bearing tool /hones shoot i will sell you the whole step van /mobile shop if you want pictures let me know..............):^)

[Wagoneer622]

how about a ridge reamer?

[Booger]

Patience and a Hammer :D :D :D

[Al Johnson]

Great book to have is "Engine Builder's Handbook" by Tom Monroe. Has all the tools and instruments listed in it, and what they are for.

Get a piston ring expander for installing rings on pistons. Will save money and frustration.

Micrometer sizes: You will need to go up to 5" both internal and external in order to measure your cylinder bores and pistons.

That many external mics is expensive. You can get a mic with one big frame, one mic head, and several anvils in 1" increment lengths. Much cheaper but less convenient than 6 individual mics. Shop online at jlindustrial.com

Have fun, and good luck!

[AJ Johnson]

how bout just a Stanley Tape Measure... wouldn't that be all ya need? =D

[Kaiserjeeps]

You know, you can usually get a decent warranty if the machine shop does the assembly. I like building engines but the warranties are great. If your in it for the fun factor of doing an engine, well go for it!!

[Cliff]

Buy a set of deburring bits. Smooth out the oil drainback holes and remove any casting flash that would interfere with oil return. Also get a set of porting and polishing bits, and do the heads. I personally wouldn't do this myself, but it sounds like you have some machine work experience.

[jhatcher]

General Information: I think I will let the shop do a bore on the pistons if it needs it which I think it will. Also I will let them do the valves and check for any cracks.

rhamby: I have all the common tools you mentioned.

Al Johnson: I will pick up the book you mentioned. Thanks for the suggestions

Wagoneer622 : I dont think I need a ridge reamer if I get the pistons bored. Please correct me if I am wrong?

gsmike: I might be interested in the cam bearing tool. Not sure if I want to install my own or have the shop do it? Shoot me a price on the tool. I also saw them listed on ebay.

[Quartermaster]

I believe you'll need the ridge reamer to get the piston out of the bore.

Camera: Take plenty of pictures while you disassemble. This will help during the assembly stage. I had my son video tape the progress in stages and man am I glad I did because there were a couple of hoses that I had no idea where they went, never seen them before.