NEW POINTS DIZZY.

[Kenall]

little background first.

working on the 75 360 and it runs then doesnt then does, etc...hmm i think to my self...disconnect the coil wire at the dizzy hold it from eng ground and crank the motor with the key on...a little spark, then no spark, then a little spark, etc. now i kno y every1 hates the BID ignition.

so i go online at www.autozone.com (http://www.autozone.com) and buy me a dizzy from a 73 360 wag (40$). it comes in the little brown truck and i install a cap n rotor from what i have lying around the garage. insert it in the motor and do the spark test...nuthin :(

maybe i adjusted the points too much! decrease the dwell angle and VAROOOM, it runs! runs lousy, blows smoke and knocks, but it runs. now all i need is a ballast resistor, the proper starter solenoid, and rebuild the motor.

maybe in that order ;D

[Marvin Gates]

Ken, I had a 75 Wag and had the same problems, so I put a points dizzy in it and problem solved. I found that at about 1100 to 1200 RPM it had a miss, really bad, no matter what I did I couldnt get rid of it. So I changed coil (thought it might be the problem) nope, messed with carb, no help, finally my next door neighbor is a real mechanic and took a look and the problem is the points dizzy gets about 30 degrees of advance right off the bat, so we disconnected the vacuum advance line and it has run perfect ever since.
That was a year ago and it still runs perfect. Also, there is a difference in coils, some have built in resistors and some don't, you want the one with a built in resistor.
Hope this helps, the advance thing was driving me nuts. smile.gif

[Kenall]

well iv never liked all the vac hose routing anyway. im gonna reroute the dizzy vac advance direct to a ported nipple on the carb, just like it is on my 66s SBC.

in kno some coils have and dont have the built in resistor, but u say its better to get the resistor coil instead of adding a seperate ballast resistor to the coil i have now which has printed on it "for use with external resistor"?

[letank]

Always thought that the ballast resistor is better as you bypass it during cranking to have the full cranking voltage... about 9v... then when you are not cranking you get the ballast resistor wiring... about 9v.....

I got the 1.30 or 1.32 or 1.28 from Napa with the pertronix

Michel

[illegalFSJ]

I actually went and replaced every single part of my BID ignition system and it still didn't work until I installed a points ditributor I had laying around the garage. Seems to run fine, although I've never checked the dwell, gap, or advance...
I hate the BID!