Ball joints, should I try this?

[matthew]

I think the ball joints need to be replaced. With the front jacked up the front tires can be moved side to side and up and down also there is a clunking sound when I go around corners. I am going to replace the bearings and want to do the same with the ball joints. But I was reading in the Haynes repair manual that the ball joints should be done by the shop and does not tell how to do it. I gess my question is should I try the ball joint replacement myself and if so how?
Thanks in advance for any help, Matt

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84 GW
TFI ignition
and a lot more work to come

[MonsterMash]

You'll need to have a heavy duty C-clamp and a couple of special adapters to do the job but otherwise it's pretty staight forward. The adapters fit over the ball joints and allow the C-clamp to press evenly and securely over the ball joints. If you have a friend who does this kind of stuff and has the tools or if you like collecting tools then go for it. According to my manual the part # is J-34503 which is the C-clamp and the adapters. Snap-on or Mac should be able to cross reference that Jeep #. Might want to wait until you do your wheel bearings though as that may be the cause of your problems.

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'84GW360--"Spinner"
Bigger tires and better stereo but pretty much stock
Most everything works some of the time!
1st Annual Jefferson FSJ Mud Run:

http://home.earthlink.net/~worthservices/index.html

[River Beast]

MM is right... your bearings may be the main problem... good call MM. Do them first, then test your ball joints as follows:

Jack up one front wheel, letting it droop...no pressure on it. (about 3" up)

Secure rig with a jackstand under frame.

Place a prybar between the ground and the tire.

While lifting up the prybar, have another person check for up and down play at the ball joints (upper and lower). You may need to exert and "pull and release" rhythm on the prybar almost like bouncing to see the play in the joints if there is any. If you have play, you may even feel it, but make sure your wheel bearings are tight first.

If you have play in the ball joints, go ahead and replace them with a good tip to keep in mind:

On a solid front axle, as our FSJ's, ther is an upper ball joint adjustment sleeve screwed into the upper end of the knuckle. DON'T MESS WITH IT unless you have to. It has two slots in the top of it that you can use a special tool to remove it. Once you pull the joint you will see it.. it may be flush with the surface of the knuckle or even sunk below it. This sleeve is used to adjust the camber/caster of the wheel to a certain degree (small, but enuf the throw off the wheels). I didn't know this and messed with mine and got uneven tire wear. The alignment shop will cost you a bit more when you let them know you messed with the sleeve cuz of the work involved with reseting the proper position. A "good" alignment shop that knows (or cares) about the adjustment at the sleeve will run about $130 if there are adjustments to be made at the sleeve... I have found 2 local shops here that will do it, the rest say "no, there's no adjustment." THAT's BS cuz you can buy degreed sleeves to make the adjustments!

Just thought I would let you know this if you tackle the job...

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Todd
78 Wagoneer, "River Beast"
360/TH400/QT
Dana 44's locked w/ 4.89's
39.50x15x15 Super Swamper TSL's
7" SOA in front-7" Rear Shackle Inversion Mods
4" Skyjacker Softride
3" Trailmaster Bodylift
My FSJ site: http://www.geocities.com/spazz4life (http://www.geocities.com/spazz4life)
My E-mail: monster_fsj@hotmail.com
"If you can't stop...SMILE as you go under!"

'93 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban...a.k.a. "FSJ Hauler"

[This message has been edited by River Beast (edited November 29, 2000).]

[fulmetal]

I would have to agree with MM & RB also. The bearings are quick and easy to check. The ball joints are not that bad, you will need the castle socket. I purchased mine for 15.00 here locally. If you are going to attemp this just follow you manual step by step. If you have not made any mods you should have a 0 deg preload nut on the top. You should find a 1-1/8 N.C. tap to chase the threads with. Sometimes they can be a bear to get out. I would recommend tha Napa models they are Dana Spicer and offer lifetime warranty. Good luck