Different Rear Window Help?

[Frank]

I'm driving 'Sluggo' for four months now and since day one, the tailgate window has worked. I know of the great references in the Tech section but they don't seem to address the situation I have - when raising the (electric) rear window, it sounds as if the gears in or on the regulator skip. It will raise for about two inches, stutter then continue, all the way up. It used to stutter for shorter lengths of time but now it's getting longer and longer. I *know* it's gonna stop altogether just in time for winter winds to blow. Also, if I pull up on the right side of the window while it's rising, the stutters lessen.

Before I dig in, is there anything I should look for? I'm going to go right for the regulator and its associated gearing. My guess is that the heavy glass is not moving as easily as it should and the gear or sproket framing is not aligned, causing the skips and stutters...

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Frank
'88 Grand Wagoneer, "Sluggo"
Box Stock, 2" Bodylift

[ClarkGriswald]

Have you been in there yet?? thats how mine was acting and I am missing one whole side track and the slots where the regulator arm studs ride were really shot and one was gone heheh.. So it was just jumbling its way up..

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88 Grand Wagoneer
D44's front\rear
Warn 20990 Lockouts
AMC 360
TF 727
NP 229 (Funky)
Custom Hacking Via S.P.A. (Standard Polish Archetecture)

[JERRY88GW]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Frank:
I know of the great references in the Tech section but they don't seem to address the situation I have <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Actually they do. I had the same problem recently. The track the window sits on was rusted in half. Replaced the track and now it goes up and down better than ever.

[Ralph]

Frank, the fellas are right. It sounds as if you're trying to diagnose the problem by reading alone. You've got to get inside the tailgate and have a look-see.

[okidoc]

I just recently had mine stop all together. I found it to be a combination of things. First, after pulling the trim and service panel I realized the track at the bottom was only holding half of the window. this allowed the window to get skewed and jam up in the frame. Second, my electrical connections were dirty and my front switch needed replacement.
After coaxing the window out (carefully so as not rip the defroster wires off) I generously lubed the side rails with spray silicone. I then removed the bottom track from the window cleaned it straightened it and made sure the window fit in easily the poured gas on it to soften up the rubber(old body shop trick) and reassembled the window.
Instead of replacing the switch I simply broke it down. Do this carefully or you will lose the springs inside. Scraped the contact points clean. I noticed one of the spade connectors were loos eon the bottom so I rigged up a center punch in the vise and use another with a jewelers hammer to tighten down the loose rivet.
All this made a great difference no more shudder and the window glides smoothly and quickly. Let me know if you have anymore questions.

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87 GW spankin' new 360
??everything else.
31x10.50 stock rims and height. NO RUB