really strange noise! hhmmmm

[Veepster]

I get this really strange noise/vibration from the left front wheel area, it feels like I am running over washboard....it is more noisy than a vibration though.....you know those areas on the interstate just on the shoulder that are designed to wake you up if you are drifting off the road? well imagine the same noise, less vibration but only coming from the left front....does it only under cruise conditions and only lasts about 3 seconds...comes on abruptly and ends abruptly....the first couple times it happened I thought it was something on the road now it is happening about once every 30 miles or so.....I am confused, any ideas?

[Crazy_Jeepman]

First thing that comes to mind is a wheel bearing, broken belt in the tire, bad axle u-joint. A start anyhow. ;)

[Jim Barbero]

My first FSJ did something similar just before the front u-joint went out and the driveline went through the transmission. My fault for not fixing it sooner.

Jim

[bentpushrod]

I have a similar problem with my wag. My noise is more of a high pitched squeal though. And it will subside if I stomp on the gas.

I can't seem to keep the wheel bearings tight enough in mine. Had it apart, bearings looked fine. Put it back together and no noise for about 1000 miles. Now it started doing it again. So I'm going to check them today, and adjust as necessary. Thinking it's time to replace the bearings and races.

[Veepster]

crazy........bad belt unlikely as tires only have about 6,000 miles on them and I often have the FSJ over 90 mph and would imagine bad belt would show up then......bearings? I pack them often and last time everything looked great!...axle u-joints now that is a possibility! they are tight but I have been unable to get them to take any grease, when I try and gt grease into them it just spurts out! it seems that the little receptacle is plugged or something....any ideas on how to get it unplugged?......also I am waiting for some parts to add a partitme and to rebuild my QT because the front bearing is in pretty bad shape, the shaft has about 3/8 inch play side to side...all driveshafts are perfect, I had them balanced and redone($500) about a yr ago....one question: my axle joints are tight(no slop in cap area) they seem to be sloppy where the go into the hub area, should I be able to grab the joint and have play when I tug on it?

Jim..when you say front u-joint...do you mean axle joint or driveshaft joint?

[River Beast]

Bart,

Check your bearings and retaining nut... could have wored loose causing your rotor to "pop out" when moved the right way and then reseat on the bearings and spindle.

Any notice of it when braking? The caliper can be loose and kicking off the rotor as well.

I would definitely droop the hub and check the surface of the spindle for wear....

OOOOHHHH... check the caged needle bearings INSIDE the spindle where the axle stub shaft runs thru... MINE WERE GONE!!!!You have to remove the spindle to get to them.

Gotta be in that area to be isolated to one side. But remember... vibes can travel leaving you on a chase....

remember way back when, I was chasing a vibe up front.... went thru all my bearings and driveshaft joints and axle joints and still had it... it was the carrier bearings in the front diff! Let's not think the worst right now.. just put that in the back fo your mind for now....

[Veepster]

my thoughts on why I don't think it is bearings.......this never happens under load, and let me tell ya I put this beast under load often!!..at least once a week while tuning I will leave the stop sign with all four tires spinning...I would assume the problem would show up then....also absolutely no problems while braking or cornering...this only occurs when putting down the freeway.......hhhmmmm

[Iron Horse]

Bart, those concave grease fittings are replaceable. You should be able to get it out with a medium sized regular screwdriver.

[Veepster]

thanks Andy!......Napa on the way home!

[gbarrett]

I'm not an expert on these things yet, but, mine would do that. I'm not sure what your front axle setup is, but mine had the factory "auto hub" thing and it didn't work. I put Warn hubs on it and it took care of one problem. My truck will do what you are describing when the axle disconnect fork doesn't engage or disengage all the way on occasion. When it happens, it will make you soil your shorts if you're not careful. I keep my hubs unlocked all of the time except when I have to have 4WD, then no problem at all.

Well, that's my 2 cents. Hope it helps.

Greg

[River Beast]

Bart.. the reason I say maybe bearings is mine wasn't constant either.... on the gas at times and others at coasting. I would check them... to make sure you are not chewing up your spindle...

I lost a spindle when it sheared once... not on my FSJ but it was a Dana 44 and acted as you describe.... I didn't know any better then....

[Veepster]

I will definitely check them Todd, as I am taking a trip to Laughlin next weekend...

never had the spindles off before...pretty simple procedure?

[SLINKY]

Had the noise, fixed the noise. After going nuts trying to figure out the noise. Took about 3 months to piss me off enough before ripping it apart. Step on the gas it stops, or step on the brake it stops, but wasn't constant, it only takes a little dipple in the road to make it start and last only about 30 seconds when it first starts. But it get MUCH WORSE. I BEEN THERE

Now you tech guys will slam me good for what i'm about to type but i know what the problem is and why but as for decribing the parts with the correct name i couldn't even if i tried.

Mine was the front right side. the short shaft after the universal joint the bearing that rides around that stubby shaft had been worn and was vibrating inside the bearings. it doesn't do it all the time and does it less when engaged in 4wd.

Now before i knew of this great site and ebay and other things like that i went to the jeep dealer and they wanted to sell me the entire axle shaft not just the stubby part. for about 650.00 but i found a local guy who had one. I also replaced the entire rotor bearing assembly.

the bearing had worn a strip in the stubby shaft about 1/64 deep making it wobble and vibrate. it only gets worse fix it now.


I'm really sorrry about my descriptions of parts...

[Veepster]

slinky I think you are talking about the bearings in the spindle....Ok lets assume that is it, which Todd says it was also.....I have about a 800 mile trip to take next weekend and do not have time to fix that..or do I? can I just pop it apart and relube it for a quick fix?.......I don't mind doing it the right way but don't have time to get it done before my trip....it only happens for a few seconds once a day or so..slink how fast does it progress??....and you are right, just a little dip in the road and it starts!

[River Beast]

Bart.... since you have had the rotors off before, its about a 10 min process from there.

Just remove the 7/16" bolt holding your dust cover to the knuckle and the 6 nuts and washers holding the spindle to the knuckle.

Once you have them off... use a penetrating oil around the lip of the spindle and studs and using a deadblow mallet hit the spindle up and down, it should start to move.... once you pull it off.... look just beyond the mounting flange and about 1/8" insside the spindle should be your caged needle bearings. The kit for this entire setup is about $15 at NAPA. (per side) comes with a new bearing, new seals for the stub shaft and the bearing and a nylon washer and new stub shaft ring.

The hardest part is removing that DANG bearing!!!! Something to split it or knock it out from the inside like a long brass punch. Make sure when you reseat the new bearing you don't go too deep.. the rubber seal should be flush with the spindle body if the bearing is in peorperly.. there is no "seat" for the bearing so you can press it in too far.. be careful....

While your there.. since you haven't been able to grease the stub shaft joints.. pull the shaft out and check for binding... just because there isn't side play doesn't mean they are rusted up inside and binding....

[ December 07, 2001: Message edited by: River Beast ]

[Veepster]

Thanks Todd...I will do that this weekend...easy enough job....


going on a pretty cool adventure with the girls next weekend...check out www.rallyusa.com (http://www.rallyusa.com) and click on adventure rally.....my girls(age 8 and 10) are going to be my codriver/navigators for the rally, so they are really stoked!....just trying to make sure the Green Flash is up to the task...

[bentpushrod]

Well, I mentioned the same symptoms with mine. And my wheel bearings were fine. Pulled the spindles. One side was fine. The other toast. Just picked up the kit from Napa. Now to go and drive out that bearing. smile.gif

[Va-Rob]

Does the vibration come on at a paticular speed then quit???? If it does it could be the torque converter lock out gone bad. If it is it will send the vibrartion through the drivetrain.

Just a thought

Rob

[Veepster]

thanks for all the help guys!!.....I pulled the front apart on Sat and those spindle bearings were completely dry and very rusted, they had damaged the short shaft a little but I decided it was OK as I am installing a part time QT kit next month...so I replaced those bearings all their seals, all the axle bearings and races and put it back together and it runs beautiful......thanks again for all the insight!!

[SLINKY]

No it seems to do it from any speed from about 25mph on up.

When mine first started i thought it had something to do with the 4wd and i engaged it it had stopped then i disengaged it and didn't get it again for a week.. this was all over a period of about 6months so it's not gonna happen all at once. It becomes almost constant when the shaft is worn down after a while. but mine took about 6 months. to figure it out and have someone look at it. (everytime you take someone for a ride it doesn't happen to get their opinion)