14 bolt, what to do about parking brake?

[KYJ10]

Since im switching to disk brakes, on my 14 bolt rear, are there any cheap and easy ways to rig up a parking brake? I checked on the caddy calipers, but they are like $100 apiece, as compared to the 3/4 ton calipers, $12.95. So I need some other options here. Thanks, Dennis

[Gwamp]

Keep an eye out on the pirate4x4 for sale boards. They-the caddy calipers-show up there once in a while. Or post on the wanted board there. someone is bound to have a set laying around that they are not using.

[Bob Barry]

I'm facing the same dilemma; my plan is to score some calipers from a local yard and rebuild them.

That $100 figure is accurate, but you have to add the core-charge on top of that. Not pretty.

For the parking-brake cable, however, I was planning on installing two floor-levers from a little Cherokee, with a separate cable for each rear brake. Add in a catch to keep the ratchet-button depressed, and the parking-brakes can double as turning-brakes.

[Sycho15]

You could use Mico Locks. They are hydraulic line-locks. You push the brake-pedal down, then flip the lever or push the button (depending on which style you choose) and release the brake pedal. The Line-locks hold the pressure on the brake-line.

They aren't considered as legal parking brakes, but if you yank the e-brake cable and push the little Mico-lock button you've hid under the dash nearby- who's to know?

Or... just get the Caddy calipers you need from the junkyard.

[scotty]

you can just use the VW steering brakes and you wont have to fool with making a seperate lever and line to each caddy calliper. plus you can buy a steer brake and 2 $12.95 calipers for almost half the price of the 2 caddy calipers. :eek:

a friend of mine has a lever he flips up to keep the levers on his steer brake in the upright position. it works great-held his jeep on a very steep driveway for over a week without moving.

i have a hydraulic "park loc" also from the local buggy shop on my front brakes. it required running brakeline inside the cab to install where i wanted to put it,but it works very well.depress the pedal,push the button on the park lok, and it stays locked until you push the brake pedal again. it could be mounted under the floor with only the button sticking thru,so you could push the button with your foot,kinda like the dimmer switch if you dont care for the notion of running lines inside the cab.

it cost about the same as an electric line lock at $39.99. im sure an electric line lock is a fine option for temporary parkig brake action in the woods.im actually pretty sure it would be ok on the street,too,but id hate to reccomend it and then your jeep roll into someones new mercedes :eek:

main reason i went with this one is i dont seem to have such great luck with electric gizmos ;) and i also wnated to be sure it would still work even if both batteries were dead or disconnected.

eventually ill make a lever for my steer brake levers to keep them upright to suppliment the park lock on the front brakes.

[ January 13, 2003, 07:24 AM: Message edited by: scotty ]

[Bob Barry]

Scotty,

Are the VW steering brakes hydraulically actuated? I was interested in a mechanical backup in case the hydraulics failed (the "emergency" part of the "Emergency Brake" name, rather than just a parking-brake). Do you have a link for info on them?

I have had the actual opportunity to use an Emergency brake in an emergency, so having one for me is a matter of more than just satisfying the inspection station.

[scotty]

good point bob.

the steer brakes are part of the hydraulic system. one benefit of them is that they,basically,are a set of levers that come with their own little master cyl,so their operation is not dependent on the vehicle running. i am able to let myself gently back down a hill with them with the engine not running. i can also start myself on a hill with them without having to "heel-toe" the brake and accelerator: brake-right hand,gas-right foot,clutch-left foot. smile.gif it works just as well as having a hand throttle.

you are correct,tho,if you are concerned about having a mechanical backup in case of a line break or fluid leak that drains fluid from the system,wich is the only reason i can think of that they wouldnt work.if the fluid leaks out,you will have no E brake.

master cyl or booster failure wouldnt affect them any as long as the fluid remains in the system smile.gif

sorry,i dont have any links about them. i got mine from www.larrysoffroad.com (http://www.larrysoffroad.com) they prolly at least have some pics of what they look like.

im running CNC 452AR3/4 wich are designed for disc brakes,angled levers,red ball

[Bob Barry]

Yeah; I may invest in the Caddy calipers, then. I've had a rear line fail, which sends the pedal to the floor. I was able to limp home with the front brakes and the parking-brake.

It's always nice to have a nice strand of wire running to a lever I can pull with my hand that would give me some stopping power.

[tuck]

what about a transfer case brake? I know high angle driveline makes some, and a decent fabricator could probably make something similar.

[Sundowner]

I was going to suggest the High Angle p-brake, too.
you could pro'ly do something yourself with a willwood mechanincal caliper, a fabricated brackets and a machined disc netween the rear output and the companion flange. I have the caddy e-brake calipers on my cj and they are good, but expensive and too small IMO for a FSJ.