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View Full Version : Before I buy her.................


KivaKid
07-28-2002, 08:43 AM
Getting close to getting the Wagoneer I fell in love with recently. 1976, 360, QT, with 62,000 original miles for $1200!! When I test drove it yesterday, I confirmed to myself that the mileage must be correct. This thing just seemed too new feeling to be 162,000. The guy said it needed some carb work, that it sat a few years back, and he thought it was a little gummed up. I started it up, and I got a puff of blue/white smoke. After that, no smoke at all. I got her out on the highway, and floored it a few times. Good power, no smoke. One time flooring it, it bogged down for a second, making a low 'woowoowoo' sound, and picked back up. Maybe a gummed up acc. pump? I put her in neutral and gave her some gas, no smoke. I checked all 4X4 components (Lo & E-Drive), they all worked fine. Should I hear a brief vacuum noise when I switch to E-Drive (yes, I was in dirt!)?? No binding going in figure 8s and Ss. Engine sounds good, no ticks or noises. No big leaks that I could find. I guess I just wanted to check with you guys and see if there's anything left to really reasonably check before I put out the cash. Thanks in advance!

New Wagoneer (http://164.47.121.16/kiva/newwag2.jpg)

[ July 28, 2002, 02:46 PM: Message edited by: KivaKid ]

Tad
07-28-2002, 08:58 AM
Sounds pretty good there amigo, good luck.

Marc_01
07-28-2002, 10:21 AM
Kid, yes you should here a little air sound when the e-drive is switched on.

As far as the blue smoke, i think that is just from old valve/push rod seals that leak a bit of oil on to the piston tops. (Correct me if i'm wrong engine gurus)

Sounds like a good deal man! 62k, man that is low millage for a 76.. But hey, i aquired a 1970 pea green ford LTD(400 V8) with 53k original miles, paid a whopping $0.00, lol. It has to be the ugliest/longest car ever built.

Gwamp
07-28-2002, 11:08 AM
Sounds like you got a winner there. How is the rust situation on it? Any hidden bondo? did you go over it with that checklist that Oracle(?) had made for buying a Jeep?

KivaKid
07-28-2002, 01:37 PM
The body is great. It does have some rust on the rear passenger 1/4, but I think it's manageable. Where is that Oracle checklist???

OBX-AUTOMOTIVE
07-28-2002, 01:55 PM
I NEVER DRIVE ANYTHING I BUY!!!..... GUESS WHY???... smile.gif :rolleyes:

Gwamp
07-28-2002, 02:01 PM
Here is a quoted list:

"Here is what I checked. look at the tires, if bad, not moving anywhere LOL.

1. Open the hood, check all the belts.
2. open the radiator cap, what does the coolant look like.
3. check the oil, what color, consistency-contamination? same for brake master cylinder.
4. pull the tranny dipstick, color? any burnt smell?
5. check powersteering pump fluid level, how's the fluid look.
6. any leaks under the vehicle? check the battery levels (pry off the caps)
7. take a jack and jack up the front axle. pull the top and bottom of the wheel, does it move? If so bad or maladjusted bearings. Turn the wheel any grinding that isn't obviously the brakepads...not good.
8. move the wheel from side to side, any play in the steering? If tight fine, if loose check the ball joints, tie rods, drag link..you get the idea.
9. put up on jackstands. check the front diff level, how's the fluid look? How do the springs look? all leaves ok? any cracks?
10. grab the front driveshaft, turn it and pull it up and down, does it move up and down? u0joints and or cardan could be shot. are they lubed? dry?
11.Any leaks from the weep hole under the water pump?
12. How about around the oil pump/ filter housing?
13. Any evidence of front engine seal leak?
14. rear?
15. tranny leaks?
16. try and move the exhaust heat riser valve by hand, is it stuck? if so bang it a few times till it losens up.
17.cracks in the manifolds? y pipe? is the exhaust in decent condition?
18. Check transfer case level, condition of fluid. any leaks?
19. How do the brake lines look? How's the rust situation on the frame? how's that gastank skid look?
20. grab the rear driveshaft, is it loose? dry?
21. how do the gas lines look? rear brake lines?
22. lower the front of the car
23. raise the rear of the car
24. check wheel bearing play and brake binding as before. Any strange noises in the differential? clicking? grinding?
25. check rear diff fluid level and condition.
examine ebrake cable, check springs and shock mounts.
lower rear.
back to hood, ok, now pull the aircleaner cover, how's the filter look? carb throat?
do all the vac lines seem to be hooked to something? are any obviously missing?
if filter and carb are ok check the operation of the two vac flaps in the snorkel.

If at this point all looks pretty good, try and start the motor.
watch the oil pressure gauge. check the charging circuit.listen for any piston slapping, knocking, anything out of the ordinary. listen under hood for any hissing, after 30 seconds or so, trip the throttle to come down off the fast idle. How's it sound now. any missing?
put the emergency brake to the floor, did it hold?
put the tranny in neutral.
check the transmission fluid level.

If everything sounds good, put the car in reverse, did it shift? if so release the emergency brake and back up a bit. how's the tranny feel? any strange noises? vibrations?
if ok, put in drive and roll forward a bit then apply brakes, how did they feel? smooth? is pedal tight or did it go to the floor?
if ok, drive off at moderate throttle
how's the 1/2 shift? the 2/3?
is there a lockup torque converter? (you'll find out between 45 and 55, feels like a 4th gear).
ok any vibration? how's the steering? try the brakes again, smoothly...still ok?
allright come to a smooth stop
now put your foot in it a bit, not street racing but fire off the line smartly..how's everything feel? any pinging? knocking? backfiring?
vibration?
how did the tranny feel?
if all ok return to seller. check interior lights, radio, windows, doorlocks, and rear window on way (assuming GW). Note anything that sticks or doesn't work at all. Check power seats, monitor all gauges, are they showing normal temp/ operating values?

Damage, Inc.
07-28-2002, 02:08 PM
You took it out and throttled it up and everything looked good. Now check deceleration; get going about 60 then left off the throttle completely and notice any exhaust smoke. Verify there's no BLUE smoke, which would signify loose valves or bad valve seals...

Elsewise, looks like a good buy!

OBX-AUTOMOTIVE
07-28-2002, 02:24 PM
DON'T GET MAD AT ME!!!!! BUT IF I WAS SELLING,SAY SOMETHING FOR A GRAND OR SO..AND YOU CAME AND LOOKED AT IT AND DID ALL THAT STUFF OR STARTED TO DO ALL THAT STUFF,I TELL YOU TO GET THE HELL OUT!!!...I CAN LOOK AT A FEW PLACES ON A "CAR" AND GET AN IDEA OF THE MILES ON IT AND IF THEY ARE TRUE!!!...OH!!! I NEVER BUY ANYTHING THAT RUNS...WELL THE LAST 4 ANYWAY....COST LESS AND SOMETIMES FREE!!!...IT'S NICE TO START OUT AT 0 DOLLARS :cool: :cool:

Slippery
07-28-2002, 02:54 PM
Originally posted by GEMOBX/77/401:
I NEVER BUY ANYTHING THAT RUNS...WELL THE LAST 4 ANYWAY....COST LESS AND SOMETIMES FREEHEY!!! I RESEMBLE THAT REMARK...

OBX-AUTOMOTIVE
07-28-2002, 03:07 PM
SAY SLIPP..YOUR MY KIND OF GUY!!!!.. ...I LOOKED AT AN S10 NOT TO LONG AGO...THE SHOP WANTED 350.00 TO PUT A STARTER IN THIS LADYS S..AND SHE WANTED 300.00 FOR IT..BODY WAS NICE. ....BUT I'M NOT INTO S10s.... smile.gif smile.gif

[ July 28, 2002, 09:16 PM: Message edited by: GEMOBX/77/401 ]