Brakes, Brakes, and NO BRAKES!!!

[xj2fsj]

So I have this '79 Wag see. I am trying to fix the brakes. I am having problems and they are making me feel stupid. Convince me that i am not stupid, please.

Components: Brand new MC, working Calipers from my '82, new lines from MC to splitter, new L/R wheel cylinder.

1 Problem: no braking power
2 diagnosis: air in lines and new wheel cylinder
3 Attempted fix: Syringe and tube attached to bleeder. First tried to suck but was sucking air from threads. Began pushing fresh fluid INTO the bleeder, got about 1/3 of a PT bottle in before fluid started shooting onto the underside of my hood from the rear resovior in the MC.
4 Questions:
a. Should this rear resovior be full of fluid or empty (it's empty now, and the one I removed was empty)(the one on my '82 was completely different so I cannot use it as a template)
b. What is the purpose of the is resovior?
c. would the splitter prevent proper bleeding using the method described above?

I really just want to have working brakes so if someone could take the time to walk me through what I am missing that would be great.

[Stuka]

A: Both resevoirs should be full.
B: The dual master cylinder is designed so that if you loose a front or a rear line, the opposite will still have fluid and work. With single master setups if you loose one, you loose all your brakes.
C: For bleeding I bench bleed at first, then bleed each wheel at its bleed point on the back of thebacking plate. With my chero I HAVE to finish witht he driver side front, no clue why, But I do otherwise it wont bleed right.

[xj2fsj]

Thanks Stuka. So just one more question then. Does anyone else have the words "Fluid side" on the gasket of the MC? I do and it says that over the larger side of the MC resoviors. Just curious.

[flatbackdragon]

if you are talking about the gasket that fits onto the cap, then just make sure that side faces the fluid.
all reservoirs MUST be full or mostly when bleeding brakes or stand to suck air into lines. Air is not good for braking in a liquid system.
Also, the splitter, the combination differential & proportioning valve, the metering section of the valve must be held open when bleeding. Loosen the front bolt and push in on the metering valve stem to open it and retighten the bolt. There is spose to be a tool to hold this valve stem in while you retighnten the bolt, you may have to fabricate a tool to do this. Others here may have fabbed a useful tool, i use a large c-clamp, works for me. After bleeding all brakes, rear first, then front right, last drivers front(shortest line), then take off the tool and retighten bolt.
I've found this works, just as the book say it should be done, otherwise, the system isn't going to have full pressure to rear when bleeding, under normal use the rear on gets about 40 o/o pressure when you step on brakes, so need to have full pressure when bleeding rear.
KEEP THE RESERVOIR FULL, above the holes in bottom or lines WILL suck air, then have to start all over.

[Bobbo]

Good advice from flatbackdragon. That should cure your problem.