View Full Version : high gears low gears?
la mula pescadora
10-12-2001, 04:16 AM
hello people
well i have a question on my 76 chief i have soa and shackle flip i currently have 33 but interested on 35 boggers i'm will use my fsj for daily used (after i have finished with her) and my question is with stock gears i shouldn't have any problems runing the 35 or some one recomend to change the gears i'dont know the gear ratio at the moment i have and i will mostly have fun in the mud and at the beach smile.gif
WillyPete
10-12-2001, 04:52 AM
"the fishing mule"? sorry, my spanish is first year level, interesting name tho smile.gif
there should be a tag on the front or rear differential that will tell you the gear ratios. if you go from stock tires to 35" tires, you might want to gear up to 4.56s or even 4.88s, especially if you use boggers.
good luck
River Beast
10-12-2001, 05:05 AM
3:54's is most likely your stock gears.... 35's would almost require a 4.56 to get the power back.
la mula pescadora
10-12-2001, 05:40 AM
yep that's the fishing mule since fishing is my sport and i like to really pack
what whould it be the cons of leving it with the gear ratio that it came with? whoul i spend more gas and rebg the engine more. what about leaving it with 33
River Beast
10-12-2001, 07:48 AM
I had 33's with 3.54's.... it was a dog off the line and took lots of pedal to get it down the road the way I wanted it to go. Slight inclines on highways might be notice by a reduction in speed. Your MPG will be reduced, I know, I had the setup... With my setup now, I get close to 11 MPG...YES with 39's and 4.89's...depends on how I drive.
This Gear Calculator (http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartable.htm) shows what I mean...
This is my example:
Look at the RPM's for 28" tires and 3.54's and compare with RPM's for a 39" tire and 4.89's.
The closer you get to factory specs the MPG will not be so affected.
[ October 12, 2001: Message edited by: River Beast ]
la mula pescadora
10-12-2001, 08:30 AM
smile.gif hey nice table tks
then with some pair of 33 will do without sacrificing to much gear ratio
how much will a change of geras will be do u know
River Beast
10-12-2001, 08:40 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by la mula pescadora:
smile.gif hey nice table tks
then with some pair of 33 will do without sacrificing to much gear ratio
how much will a change of geras will be do u know<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Since you have 3.54's... to go to a 4.11 or a 4.56 you also need to change carriers....
Carriers runs from $200-$500 each depending on what you want, and gear can be purchaced in a power package (2 complete sets incl. 2 master overhaul kits) for around $450.
Getting them installed is the BIG $$$$$ in some cases.
I got both my axles done with new gears and carriers for just under $2000...not all at once either. I did the rear first (after saving up for parts and labor) then saved up for the front and got it done...
porkchop
10-12-2001, 09:47 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by River Beast:
Since you have 3.54's... to go to a 4.11 or a 4.56 you also need to change carriers....
Carriers runs from $200-$500 each depending on what you want...<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
If you get just regular open diff carriers, they will run you $15 dollars apiece brand new. I got my whole set up from
West Coast Differentials (http://www.differentials.com) for $500. It came with 4.56's, open diffs, and master overhaul kits and shipping. I have been busy with other things so I have not gotten the gears in yet and I am still running with 3.54's. I can tell you it is very slow off the line but I do get up to speed pretty quick, but that is because of the engine mods I have made.
jeepgods
10-12-2001, 12:08 PM
hey mule, if you dont have too many mountains where you live the 3:54s will do fine. i live in the mountains of PA and have basically the same truck you have but three years newer and with 35s and i get around fine. if you had a mid 80s truck with 3:31s id say change em (had an 83 j10 with 35s and it didnt like hills too much)
Stuka
10-12-2001, 12:14 PM
One thing here....Boggers do NOT last long on the street. They are really soft rubber and will wear fast, also dont turn in place with themm because it really tears em up.
My $0.02
jeepbob
10-12-2001, 04:57 PM
I can tell you form personal experience that when you go to boggers you will find out just how much power you don't have. I have 4.10 and a slightly modified 360 and I tried my buddies 35x16 boggers on my wag and while I could turn them, I really needed 4.56 gears. Another friend has a Ranger running 4.10's and 33" boggers running a highly modified 2.8 v6 (enough engine to require a 670 demon carb and it sounds like a desert racer) and a manual tranny and he can not turn them. All he does is make a lot of noise and break parts. My buddy with the 35's has then on a CJ5 with a built 350 and 4.10 gears with lockers frt and rear and while he turns them without trouble, he snaps frt axles and rear drivshafts like they were twigs. What I am trying to say is boggers HOOK UP and you better have the right gears and parts to run them.
scotty
10-13-2001, 02:12 AM
ive got 38s and 3.54 gears.with the auto and 3.31s it was slow but still driveable in high range. with the manual trans it likes me to start in granny gear to get movin smile.gif i low range,final drive in granny is bout 55 to 1,and i still have to run in 2nd or third to keep up with higher tranny geared friends. 1st is still too low for anything but climbing,descending hills.
good friend runs 33 boggers with 4.10s and a t18 and a mildly built 258.he turns them just fine,but his dana 60 is always hanging him up on somethin.
point is it depends on your needs and how you use it. if its a daily driver youll defiately want to keep the engine in its powerband for better mileage.
mine doesnt really see much use out of low range anymore smile.gif
la mula pescadora
10-13-2001, 02:29 AM
o.k people tks for the input so boggers are a little more havier than regular tires right now i got some 33 bridgestone dueler a/t on whitch they are nearly new about 80% life on them but i don't think they are that good on mud nor sand that's why i wanted boggers or shoul i get just some regular mud tires
scotty
10-14-2001, 04:13 PM
how often and how seriously do you wheel? a bogger is gonna give you the best off road traction,but they wear fast on the street.
its not really that a bogger is any heavier than another tire-its simply that they suck power and break stuff cause they grip like nobodys business. :D its called traction,my friend smile.gif
another friend runs 31x12.5 boggers in his samuri with a stock motor,a 4 to 1 transfer case,and a lockrught in the rear. that little sucker will go anywhere.
most people will continue to run boggers after they try em and eperience them off road.
if you have an all terrain now,you will get better traction with a mud terrain,but it wont be anywhere near that of a bogger.
the guy that runs 33 boggers on his xj runs 33 bridgestone mud terrians on his 77 gmc. they do allright off road,and hes had them several thousand miles now and theyre wearing nicely. he prolly be on his 2nd set of boggers running them on the street that much. since the gmc sees mostly street use,the m/t is a better choice for it.
whats best for you depends on how youll use it. just remember my favorite saying: there is more than one way to skin a cat! ;)
Stuka
10-14-2001, 04:32 PM
Hey scotty...
it seams everytime you go wheeling you break a u-joint....did you ever think that this may be because you are running such high gearing? Alot more stress is put onn the u-jointsbecause of this...
Just a idea tho..could be a reason that I dont know about ;p
scotty
10-14-2001, 05:18 PM
stuka,
i have been having prollems with u joints since i swapped in the t18 tranny and spicer 18 transfer case. the spicer 18 has a very low rear output,which make my rear driveshaft almost perfectly horizontal,even with 3" lift blocks. my pinion points up at my almost straight driveshaft. combine this with very,very soft springs(read:"lots of axlewrap"),and now not having the torque convertor to "cushion" the rest of the driveline,and the result is a pinion that moves enuff to put the ujoint past its angle of operation. if youd look at my pinon angle and watch the pinion move when i dump the clutch in 2wd youd see what i mean. if i keep it in 4wd,so that the front shares the load,i can keep it alive. when the front does not have traction,and im not careful with the throttle, this is when the pinion points up and breaks the u joint.
it does not have anything to do with the axle gearing. the spicer 18 has a 2.46 low range,so final drive is 6.39x2.46x3.54=55.64 1st gear final drive. this is equavilant to having a 4.28(or so ;) ) axle gear if i only had a 2.03 dana 20. 6.39x2.03x4.28=55.51. so in low range,it dont really matter,the low rnage lets me get away with a high axle gear,and the granny gear in the tranny lets me get away with getting it rolling in high range without clutch slipping.example:highrange 1st final drive is 6.39x3.54=22.62,which would be like having a 5.54 axle gear if i had a close ratio t18 with a 4 to 1 first.
at any rate,do you see what im getting at? its not like i dont have the gearing,i guess,i just got it in a different spot smile.gif dont forget,there are many ways to skin that cat,i dont really drive mine,so high axle gears,lower low range works well for me.
im pretty sure when i fix my pinion angle,i wont really have much trouble with u joints. im pretty sure when i replace my rear springs/blocks with a lift spring,that i wont have any trouble with u joints.
further ques? smile.gif
la mula pescadora
10-15-2001, 04:05 AM
well i havent been off roding yet since i just got my fsj about 3 months ago and it it's really going thrue some extrimly changes like chopt top, soa, shackle flip, new floor, roll over bar cage, and still to come rise steering, body lift, rhino lining, under coating,and body andpaint job. i want to have ready by this spring break, the mule had been put to rest on 1996, by previews owner.
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