DrChop
03-10-2002, 03:41 PM
I did some serious thrashing on the '28 last night and today. I got everything pulled apart down to the spindles/axleshafts last night, before the cold finally did me in. Managed to tear it down to the knuckles in only a couple hours with hand tools. This morning, I got the spindles knocked loose (use a section of 1/8" aluminum plate between the spindle and your BFH, to avoid damaging the spindle threads/bearing area), the tie rod/Pitman ends, and finally, the spring U-bolts. 2 came out, 2 I had to cut with the grinder. I took the steering knuckles to work, as my boss is remodeling the front office where the customers are (gluing fibreglass pebble paneling everywhere), and was able to borrow the use of his air hammer and the giant C-clamp balljoint press to install all 4 new Moog greasable balljoints. I picked up some U-bolts on the way home, then had to flip the spring center bolts around before bolting in the 10-bolt axlehousing. I left the U-bolts long for now, and found after bolting up the knuckles that the long tie rod just barely touches the leaf springs when turned either way. I think I can add a 1/4" plate shim between axle and springs, or I may just take the cutoff wheel to the bottom overload leaf and gain a bit of clearance by shortening it a few inches. For the time being, I left the axleshafts out when bolting up the spindles, there's no gearset inside the carrier, and I just need to get the wheels/brakes operational at this time.
I still need to get a dropped Pitman arm for the steering drag link. Probably a 4" arm will work, but more drop would be better than not enough with the clearance at the tie rod/springs. I also need to get everything greased up on the frontend once the steering is sorted out, and figure out what to do about the shocks and steering stabilizer.
It looks TONS better with the Chevy 10 bolt under there, it almost looks factory. Now I can finally measure for the front driveshaft, it just needs to be lengthened, and have the ball and socket part inside the CV replaced. I have a good local driveline shop for that stuff.
I recently got a new digital camera, will get some updated pics of both the Caddy swap and the 10 bolt swap up on my website shortly (next few days, after work).
Interesting trivia on the swap...
Driveshaft U-joint fits between Jeep and Chevy 1/2 ton yokes.
Upper and lower balljoints interchange.
I found the Chevy housing is wider than the 44, when hooking up the steering linkage it had severe toe-in. Backing out adjustment sleeve does'nt help, not enough thread engagement. I like to see at least one thread diameter engagement on these, so adjusted the sleeve for proper toe and then cut it in half with the chopsaw. I lengthened it with about 1.5" of 1" OD tubing, beveled and welded around the circumfrences, then additionaly stiffened with 'ribs' of MIG filler about every 60 degrees around the part, these ribs run lengthwise and also give additional grip towards turning the adjustment sleeve. I have lengthened these before this small amount with no ill effects or breakage problems.
Because the tie rod sleeve needed lengthening, I believe the inner axleshafts will need to be 10-bolt parts, the outers are the stock 44 outers, the U-joints interchange.
Plenty of room for longer shocks, the stockers fit the 10 bolt brackets, possibly could drop the upper mounting stud to reuse, or just get longer aftermarket units.
Can retrofit the steering damper to the Chevy axle, just turn around and reuse the tie rod bracket towards the drivers side, and a replacement shock stud in the bracket on the axletube. Jeep mounts the axle end of the damper to a plate with stud between axle pad and spring.
Brakes, hubs, outer axleshafts interchange between FSJeep and the Chevy axle, Same parts, except the Chevy steering knuckle on the left has a steering drag link arm atop it, the right side is identical to the Jeep part. Can even swap drums for discs, although if doing so the steering knuckles need to be 'kissed' with a grinder for caliper clearance. The disc knuckles already have the clearance problem licked.
Hope this helps out others here contemplating a 10-bolt axle swap for a SOA... :D :D
Doc
I still need to get a dropped Pitman arm for the steering drag link. Probably a 4" arm will work, but more drop would be better than not enough with the clearance at the tie rod/springs. I also need to get everything greased up on the frontend once the steering is sorted out, and figure out what to do about the shocks and steering stabilizer.
It looks TONS better with the Chevy 10 bolt under there, it almost looks factory. Now I can finally measure for the front driveshaft, it just needs to be lengthened, and have the ball and socket part inside the CV replaced. I have a good local driveline shop for that stuff.
I recently got a new digital camera, will get some updated pics of both the Caddy swap and the 10 bolt swap up on my website shortly (next few days, after work).
Interesting trivia on the swap...
Driveshaft U-joint fits between Jeep and Chevy 1/2 ton yokes.
Upper and lower balljoints interchange.
I found the Chevy housing is wider than the 44, when hooking up the steering linkage it had severe toe-in. Backing out adjustment sleeve does'nt help, not enough thread engagement. I like to see at least one thread diameter engagement on these, so adjusted the sleeve for proper toe and then cut it in half with the chopsaw. I lengthened it with about 1.5" of 1" OD tubing, beveled and welded around the circumfrences, then additionaly stiffened with 'ribs' of MIG filler about every 60 degrees around the part, these ribs run lengthwise and also give additional grip towards turning the adjustment sleeve. I have lengthened these before this small amount with no ill effects or breakage problems.
Because the tie rod sleeve needed lengthening, I believe the inner axleshafts will need to be 10-bolt parts, the outers are the stock 44 outers, the U-joints interchange.
Plenty of room for longer shocks, the stockers fit the 10 bolt brackets, possibly could drop the upper mounting stud to reuse, or just get longer aftermarket units.
Can retrofit the steering damper to the Chevy axle, just turn around and reuse the tie rod bracket towards the drivers side, and a replacement shock stud in the bracket on the axletube. Jeep mounts the axle end of the damper to a plate with stud between axle pad and spring.
Brakes, hubs, outer axleshafts interchange between FSJeep and the Chevy axle, Same parts, except the Chevy steering knuckle on the left has a steering drag link arm atop it, the right side is identical to the Jeep part. Can even swap drums for discs, although if doing so the steering knuckles need to be 'kissed' with a grinder for caliper clearance. The disc knuckles already have the clearance problem licked.
Hope this helps out others here contemplating a 10-bolt axle swap for a SOA... :D :D
Doc