fsj=fricken stupid jeep

[Brown Bear]

ok, get this:

got gas in the oil, but white smoke. I can let it sit running in the drive as long as I want, and start it as many times as I wish, but if I drive it 4 blocks down, and 4 blocks back, total of about 1.5 minutes, turn it off, and it restarts slow (ie cranks very slow). It idles like a 400lb man at a chinese buffet no matter how much I try to smooth it out. Should I just retire this darn thing and start over? I just get sick when I think of how much I paid for this thing 5 years ago.

[ August 27, 2002, 05:09 PM: Message edited by: Brown Bear ]

[jeepguzzi]

I am guessing the timing is off somwhere.

[gsmikie]

do a compression test

[Bob Barry]

Gas in the oil=bad
white smoke=bad

Change the oil, change the fuel-pump, check the compression, and see where you are.

[PhilSine]

Can anybody tell me what the result of a bad fuel pump diaphragm would be (rhetorical question)?

Sounds to me like you have to replace the diaphragm in your fuel pump. Please stop running your engine ASAP because the fuel in your crankcase is thinning your oil and destroying your precious metal innards.

Good Luck.

[River Beast]

Gas in the oil is what happens when the fuel pump diaphram goes out... it pumps fuel into the oil pan... NOT GOOD!!!!

The slow crank when warmed up sounds like a heat soaked starter....mine did this and the starter even checked good.... I replaced it and haven't had a problem since...

Does it idle bad all the time or just after the 4 block trip....hmmmm.....

on the compression test... do all 8 dry... take readings... then add a about 2 tblspns of oil to a cylinder.... cycle the motor.. and retest.... do this on all 8, 1 at a time.

If the compression readings from dry to wet test increase.... you have bad rings... if they stay the same, it the heads...

Don't give up!!!!

[talntar]

stop,,,dont start till you change 1]fuel pump 2] change oil.

[GruntDoc]

hmmm last time i checked white smoke ment coolant. also while doing your pressure check look for bubbles in the radiator(head) air sound from valve covers(valve) or air from pcv or dipstick(rings)
good luck

[talntar]

fuel in oil bad pump diaphram

[PhilSine]

Disregard the part about replacing just the diaphragm. Replace whole pump as I don't think you can do just the diaphragm. A new mechanical pump should be about $30 or you can convert to electric for $40-$100 depending on what you want to spend.

[Brown Bear]

ok, little update. Got the idle smoothed out a little. timing was at 10, and I moved it closer to 15, prob right on it. That seemed to help, especially with a little tinkering with the mixture. Also seemed to take care of the white smoke I saw.

I did a comp test on 5 of the cylinders. 8,5,&7 are just too big of a punk for me to do much foolin with today. I had 90 on #1, and 110-120 on the rest. all were solid. The top electrode on the plugs was a little white, with the rest of the plug in really good shape. No misshaping or pitting.

I'm havin

[Brown Bear]

ok, little update. Turned the timing a little bit towards myself, that is, I retarded it from about 10 to about 15. That smoothed out the idle a decent bit. I was also able to get the idle smoothed out some more by fiddling with the mixture. It also seems that my white smoke has gone away as well.

I did a comp test on 5 cylinders. the other three were just too big of a pain for me to fool with today. I got a 90 on #1, and about 110-120 on the rest. 8, 5, and 7 will just have to wait. All were steady and held nicely. Also, the plugs were a little white on the top electrode, but otherwise very clean and nicely shaped.

I'm having a really difficult time believing that the pump could be bad again. This is the 3rd pump I've put in since I've owned it. If it is bad, I'm going electric. I've had enough of this. The starter has also been replaced atleast twice, maybe three times. The batt twice, last time was about6 months ago. Do you think wrapping the starter in somekind of heat shield w/ insulation or just a shield of some sort would help? It's only after it runs for awhile when it's hard to restart, which I think is kinda odd.

[Gwamp]

ignition module is starting to go bad maybe? something like this just happened to me last week.

[andy d]

where are you getting your parts?. parts aint parts, esp re-builds. i dont give up my cores until the replacement proves out

[PhilSine]

Don't tell me you're having trouble with your believer as well :D .

It must be overloaded due to the diagnosis of a bad fuel pump. tongue.gif

Try a brand new, not reman unit as Andy says. Personally, I'd convert to electric. I plan to do that soon and my fuel pump is still good.

[Stangerize]

If you took the timing from 10 -15 then you advanced it. The factory calls for 8 degrees (on mine at least it does) but mine won't run on 8. Does it spin real hard like or just turn consistently slow? If it spins hard after it's warm, that usually leans to the timing too far advanced.

[Dan G]

Ok, after spending much money on many cars, I learned a few things.

1. Fix cheapest possibility first (try starter solenoid $8-$15)

2. Buy lifetime guarantee starters and alternators and keep the receipts (IN ONE PLACE). That way, when you burnout the starter or fry the alternator you can go back to Manny and Moe and tell them they don't know Jack ;)

3. Always keep a spare ignition module around if you have the Dura-(no)Spark ignition.

4. Your most recent problem is most closely related to your most recent repair. (forgot to hook up a vacuum line for instance)

[orangecherokee]

well just in case i'll reiterate. change the oil first, have you ever seen jiffy pop? take a look at an oil pan after the oil heats the gas up to combustion temp...oooooooooooooO. i probably have no idea what i'm talking about but i believe what tad was saying about the rings. once they warm and expand things can change...