Changed my first Rear Main Seal...uuhhh...

[BlueduckFSJ]

Well, after encountering some mishaps and blunders, I finally succeeding in changing the RMS this weekend. Typical of mixing beer and wrenching, I inserted the upper seal with the lips facing the rear, soooooo off to the parts store I went(still sooted and covered in oil) to pick up a new RMS set. Everything went smoothly after that, save spending forever torquing the necessary and unneccesary. Upon inspection after this fun operation, Blueduck's oil pressure is good and there are not exhaust leaks to be heard. However, a few questions arose:

Is there a plug or something of the likes that go on the "bent-molded-tube" on the back of the coolant recovery bottle? I notice that if the coolant is a little over full that it exits out this opening. Is this supposed to happen?

Futhermore, I had a b!tch of a time trying to nuts back on the bracket of the left pipe (on back under vehicle with head facing engine) of the Y-pipe. It didn't seem that I strip the bolts on the manifold, but I did notice that the threads increase in diameter drastically about a half inch up the bolt. I assume this acts as a security measure to ensure a tight fit? Am I right in assuming this?

Also, after you replace the rear main seal, is it possible for residual oil to drip a bit? There is a bead of black subtance that I can only think is the old oil that forms on the the front bottom edge of the plate that covers the transmission. I have not seen any AT fluid or new and clean oil in this spot.

These are dumb questions I know, but I am just trying to get ole Blueduck drip/leak-free. I appreciate any intput!

[ May 12, 2003, 09:13 AM: Message edited by: BlueduckFSJ ]

[1jeep4me]

I hate to laugh but I will. I replace my RMS 3 times before giving up on it the first time was when the engine got rebuilt. The **** things drip all the time never seen a FSj with a 360 that didnt seep a little. always a drip ready to drop on my hoopty. problem is they are 2 peice and thats jus the way it is..I pookeid the hell out of the ears etc to no avail. so I live with it.

As for the exhsut bolts they are tough and the only thing you can do is lube and clean and wire brush the threads etc. then place an drop of lock tight on it or some other anit sieze stuff/

[Zacko]

Okay one by one,
your overflow tube dumps on the ground it it gets over full. No plug no foul.
Second, it is not uncommon for the manifold bolts to take on a "tapered" look due to rust. I've seen them get to a point that no threads were left from the nut down. You are lucky they didn't break coming off or going back on. (Most aren't threaded at all for the first 1/4" or so, this helps get the nut started straight.)
3rd, it could be considered normal to see a few drops left from a leak, but if it continues for more than a day or so I'd be pretty suspicious. Depending on how serious the leak was the bell housing could trap a lot of oil that will take a while to drip out.

[kyjman]

When I did the RMS on my truck it dripped oil for almost a month....from the stuff haning onto the chassis. If its sealed it will stop someday. Good job.

[BlueduckFSJ]

I appreciate the info fellas. I have been going around town all day as the weather is cool enough to take a cruise and not suffocate due to the heat. Thus far I have not seen it leak from the bellhousing since the initial drips I saw last night(3-4 drips). Hopefully this will continue to be the case.

As far as the manifold bolts are concerned, I just dabbed some anti-sieze on and lined it up as straight as I could and just put my weight into it. The threads look fine and everything has been secure all day.

Now, the t-case needs a new diaper(gasket), so that will be my adventure next week. I am glad to hear what I am experiencing is normal. Much obliged!

[SoCalCruiser]

I have a question: While you were down there did you replace the pick-up screen? I need to change my RMS but I'm not looking forward to it. Should I replace the screen while everything is apart?

Craig