Frame treatment

[tito]

I'm almost finished with installing the 3" lift on "Mistress". Unfortunately, I had to drop the gas tank, the captive nut on the driver's side rear was no longer captive. Getting the last shackle bushing cut out on a lathe today and putting it on.

My question is what is the best way to stop/repair the rust on the frame behind the gas tank? I figure it's best to do what I can while the tank's down. The rust is actually less than I expected, mostly in the bottom corner for about 18" and one spot in the middle about 4" in diameter (Probably from the liner around the tank). I've seen posts about naval jelly and rust converters; I've never heard of rust converters. Where can I get some and how hard are they to use? Thanks for any help or suggestions.

Itching to get back on the road!.

BTW, Kimbrough, I do have a metal skid plate! It must have been replaced at some time because it has no rust, dents, and the paint has very few scratches in it. That's what was throwing me off, it LOOKED like plastic because it was so clean and smooth.
:D [/LIST]

[ItchyRichy]

You could check this site out: POR 15 (http://www.por15.com). They make excellent products for exactly what you're thinking of doing. I'm going to buy their frame/floorboard kit and give it a go on my truck as soon as I can find the time to do it.

[joe]

I agree with IR that POR-15 is without a doubt the best for frames etc. There are easier to use and cheaper converters/cleaners out there mostly geared for the marine industry such as Enrust(my favorite), Chem Prime, Steel Seal, Ospho just to name a few. None are magic and stop rust completely or make existing go away but if used properly they do slow down the rust process but not totally stop it.
I'd still go with POR-15 though over any of the above. Only reason we don't use it in the marine industry is because of the cost. We buy rust converter by case lots w/4 gal to a case. Besides I don't want something too good...deckhands won't have anything to do smile.gif

[GaWd]

POR-15 is great, but it is definitely cost-prohibitive, not to mention it is many steps.

If you clean a majority of the surface rust with a wire brush on a drill, and then use rust converter on the stubborn spots you should be good. Paint them well with a good primer and your frame should be well protected.

Rust converters should be available at most parts houses I think. I've always gotten mine from either there, or swpa meets.

Sam

[tito]

Thanks for the help, guys. Sounds like I have a few more steps before getting on the road again... but's it's close! Talked to the local distributor for POR 15 and a pint is on the way. His description of the steps sounded fairly simple; remove dirt and grime (already done), scrape any loose rust (to do) and then paint with POR 15 (to do). I hope his description of the process is accurate.

Thanks again.

[GaWd]

Tito, I have to apologize. I believe I might have mislead you with my POR-15 description.

I personally have the repair kit, and it IS many steps. I've never used the straight brush-on POR-15 products.

Sam

[joe]

Tito, POR-15 is UV light sensitive, generally not a big deal on frames but it's good insurance to rattle-can a top coat over it.
Doesn't matter with what...Krylon, Rust-O, pick your flavor. Worth the extra $5 to be sure.

[tito]

GaWd, Joe,

Thanks for the feedback. The local distributor didn't mention a "kit", but did comment the amount of rust and application probably would only require the steps I listed earlier. Is there anything to guard against with POR-15, such as fumes? I once put DryLok sealant on the basement of my house, ended up having to move out while it cured because of the fumes. The project is taking place in the home garage so ventilation may require a fan.

Joe, you mentioned the stuff is UV sensitive. Does that mean it will need UV light to cure, or only that it will break down over time from sunlight? I assume the can will have some instructions on it, but I like getting info from people that have actually used it. First hand experience is priceless compared to instructions written by someone that probably never touched the stuff. ;) [/LIST]

Thanks again for the replies.

[nightflyers]

Tito, product will break down in uv light. They do sell a topcoat to protect it from UV. I have not used it yet, but I am going to be ordering some soon to see how it works.

You may also try checking out their web site. It has all their product and some useful info. Hope it helps.

www.por15cr.com (http://www.por15cr.com)

[Mikel2]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by -joe:
Tito, POR-15 is UV light sensitive, generally not a big deal on frames...<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

It depends on your driving habits :D

[tito]

Good point M2, maybe I better get some outriggers until I get used to the lift kit and taller tires. Geez, more modifications! Does it ever stop?