50' Willys Wagon Update

[Gargel-orum]

gosh..i havent posted here in months and months!! living with joel (bombadier)..hes always got the 'puter! :rolleyes:

Anyway We've Found a 50' Willies we WANT really bad, and its still the old 6volt system. Do any of you guys know what it takes to convert it to 12, or should it be left with the 6 volt system- and if so, how hard is it to maintain being most stuff out there is 12 volt (coil, gauges, battery, lights, alternator, ect..) Is it hard to find 6 volt electrical parts?

We gotta deside on it soon...PLEASE HELP :D I dont want to get into to trouble if that kind of system is gonna be to much hassel every time a coil gose or somthing.

(and if we decide to buy it- who needs a 77 chero or parts?? cant have 3 jeeps right now :rolleyes: )

-Linz

[ March 18, 2003, 03:15 PM: Message edited by: Gargel-orum ]

[64Trvlr]

Just put in a 12 volt battery, a 12 volt alternator or generator and a coil. Replace the lights as they burn out and you should be good to go. Why do you want to switch from 6 volts to 12 anyway?
:cool:

[Tad]

Like 64 stated.
and Yes, they will go reasonably fast but the wireing can handle the change as long as you are not doing any serious lighting upgrades.
At that point start adding some new primary wire, fuse blocks and by all means, be reasonable.

[Stuka]

I have converted some older chevy's over. its simple. Get a internally regulated 12V alternator, battery, and coil like said above and your good to go.

Adding fuses and new wire is also a plus like Tad said.

ok..so what i just said was all said above...but more people saying the same thing makes it closer to being right...i think?? :D

[longmountainman]

I converted an old Ford Pickup when I was in high school. All I can say is make sure the original was not a positive ground.

[CheapJeep]

I converted my dodge, and it was positive ground!
(we switched to neg ground, btw)
switch anything that ran on 6 volts to 12, ie alt, elec powered gauges (or use a voltage resistor on parts that you can't replace) light bulbs, battery
6 volt wiring can be used with 12 volts, it can handle the amperage (or other elec term?!) but 12 volt wiring cannot be used to run 6 volt.

very often you can find a later model alt that looks period correct (if you are going that route) but i'm not sure w/ the willys (i used a 12 volt alt from a 56 desoto on my 50 dodge, crapped out after 6 months, so we swapped to gm style (like whats in teh gw's) and fab up mounts if needed

the 12 volt conversion makes it so much easier to get parts/bulbs/radio/battery etc, but it does 'destroy' some of the aesthetic of a vintage vehicle. If you are planning to mod it in the future, then do the conversion. I fyou are keeping it stock, it's your call. But in my opinion, if you are going to drive it on any regular basis, do the conversion.

(one of these days i have a dealer ad for a wag that looks just like BV that i want to scan and send to you guys, i just can't find my scanner cable!)

Scott

[Gargel-orum]

Thank you!

Wow, i didnt realize it was so easy. What about plugs, wires, cap, lights? dose that involve any special searching? or can you use just the autolites (my waggy loves those best)..

are all the other parts pretty much the same basis too?

i know i sound silly asking that- but hey, iv never gotten to inspect anything like this before- if we buy it, well just drive out there cash in hand, and if it'll drive- then well probably take it home. Figuring joels gonna be a army mechanic boy pretty soon- repairs arent really a problem so long as we have 1 running truck.

[ March 12, 2003, 09:56 PM: Message edited by: Gargel-orum ]

[PAJEEPER]

I don't know much about 6 volt systems. But I hear they do work good if very well taken care of. Gotta make sure all your connections are real clean and tight. Also whatever volts you run you'll want good heavy guage battery cables. Like 2 guage or better. Anyway I'd see what that 6 volt system can do. If it doesnt work good then go to 12.

[gsmikie]

radio shack use to have voltage drops so you could still run the radio and wipers and heater blower

[Bombadier]

is the 134ci 4cyl a decent engine? is it hard to find parts for?
I realize that i'll never make any speed records, but i'd like for it to be able to get out of it's own way.

What are some issues that would need addressing, providing that the drivetrain is in good condition?

64Trvlr, this is your area of expertise, if you think of anything, let us know. :cool:

[andy d]

uhmn, the biggest issue with any engine built before 1970 is that it is set up for leaded gas. to run unleaded fuel, it should have hardened valves and valve seats. this is expensive work in a flat head where the valve seats are in the block. i'd ask if this work has been done. another issue is the brakes, the Willys wasnt a great stopper to begin with. in a power disc brake,abs world, you have to adjust your driving style or youll find yourself using peoples crumple zones. imho, a 50's car cant be relied upon for a daily driver because of these issues. i loved mine, but it was a toy.

[Stuka]

There are several willlys daily drivers here. But I am in th emountains, where there is just as many old cars as new.

[Bombadier]

ok, here's some pics of the Willys....
Whatchu guys think???
We're working out a deal with the guy since nobody bid on it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2406116848&category=6470

[sailingjeep]

That's Snazzy, good luck with it!

[CheapJeep]

good point, teh heater motor!
there is always something that you forget and fry!!

The leaded gas isn't too much of an issue, you can eitehr add additives, or runit on regular until the motor need to be rebuilt. The lead essentially lubricated teh valve seats to keep them from wearing, adn if it's been run on leaded for a while, there will be a coating on the valves that will protect them.
you could always run one additive every two or three tanks to keep your costs down and protect it a little more.

Saw the pics, looks Nice! I always liked them, i just wish that they made them with 4 doors

Scott

[Tonka J200]

The F134 is easy to find parts for! They were used in Jeeps from up until 1971. Anything you need is readily available.
I converted my '47 CJ-2A to 12 volts years ago. I used a GM self regulating alternator and it had the same size shaft as the original generator, so I swapped the pully on the front and was able to use the stock belt.

Looks like a neat wagon...keep us posted!

[Nobby]

Hmm disagree with the pre 50's car non daily driver issue. Totally depends on your driving style, secoundly usually stock old cars just arn't that fast. As regards reliability, like any pre 90's car is totally reliable.
I like to keep old things stock, just a personal preference, however I do feel that it does no harm, and can only do you good to upgrade the brakes, if its not to hard to do.
Unleaded gas is an issue and definitely query if the heads were done, otherwise use additive until you can get to it.
Now the 6 volt system. There are good arguments on both sides to staying/ changing. I usually stay 6 volt so long as there are no major problems. But here is a suggestion should you wish to change.
Do a 12 volt conversion on Alt/Starter motor but install 2-6 volt batterys in series to get the 12 volt circuit. Then whatever you choose to keep 6 volt can be run by picking 6 volt from the middle of the 2 batteries. Just take the +ve from the +ve post of the battery closest to ground side.
The potential problem with this is that this battery may work harder than the other, to cure this just swap the batteries around once in a while.
Of course this would be made difficult if the orig system is a positive ground.
One of the bonus's to this is that 2 6volts in series will give you bags of 12volt cranking capacity etc.
There would be a few wiring issues to this but, its another suggestion at least.

She looks neat enjoy!

[ March 13, 2003, 09:40 PM: Message edited by: Nobby ]

[Bombadier]

I think we're going for it.
Unfortunately, i have to get rid of my Cherokee to do so.
<sigh>

[mdill]

Personally, I would carrry a few extra 6 volt bulbs and keep it the way it is,
if you go 12 Volt, why would the coil have to be swapped ? , I don't claim to
be up on everything but I thought that the 6-12 era is when ballest resistors
came in to being, none of the "12 volt" stock coils are good to go on full 12 volts
all the time, but I beleive the stock coil in his is full 6 volts full time. ?? So
would not the addition of a ballset resistor and stock coil be the ticket ?

Mike D.

[Bombadier]

i'd like to at least upgrade the ignition if possible, i think a lot of what i do is going to result from just poking around and seeing what works.
If we buy this thing, a SBC swap would definitely be in the future, but what i'm really looking forward to is having a manual transmission again.....
did i mention i hate automatics? ;) :D

[Nobby]

If she starts and runs fine not sure if she needs it. I know its not much to go by but looking at the engine picture she looks tight. Its a very simply set up engine if its behaving itself I'd say leave it alone. When you say upgrade the ignition do you mean just go 12 volt or go 12 volt with upgraded ignition system. If its merely putting in 12 volt you won't really see much gain if any in spark. A well maintained 6volt will give ample spark. The deal is like Mdill is saying in the conversion you will be able to keep the coil and existing ignition components and just add a ballast resistor to lower the voltage. So you're sorta back where you started. If my memory serves me right for 12 volt you are looking for a total resistance in the primary circuit of approx 3 ohms so just measure the resistance on the existing primary and add a ballast resistor to suit. Im guessing your 6v coil will be 1.1-1.4 or thereabouts.
If I were to upgrade from 6volt to 12volt my reasons would be more along the lines off better lighting/ faster cranking starter motor, car audio etc. Not really the ignition.
If your planning a SBC swap then save pennys etc for that conversion, pains me to hear you say those words though, she looks awesome as is. Oh well each to their own I guess. :(
One more point a 6 volt starter should be fine on 12 volt, they are built heavy enough so will be OK. The philosophy is should it eventually die, just have it rewound for 12 volt. As already said wiring if in good condition will be fine.
Yes I know all this has been already said but like Stuka said just secounding and re-inforcing whats above.
Whatever you do you'll have fun, enjoy. smile.gif

[mdill]

I have had 134 powered wagons in the past, they are fine for driving around
town, don't expect to see 60+ mph on the freeway. It looks like a nice rig that
I would have a hard time talking my self into hacking up with a SBC.
If dead set on doing a swap look at the whole package and decide if that is really
what you want. The trans is not going to live very long behind a SBC, the transfer
case is marginable at best and those 5.38 gears would really have to go if you
want a enjoyable freeway experiance. If you are in this far then it would make
sence to loose the split axle rear, the closed knuckel front end ... I think I would
either leave it as is, or upgrade the whole drive train as I don't see where to much
middle ground, make a fun freeway/city driver or leave it as a fun origional city
driver. Personally I would leave it be.

Very nice rig as is. (Not what I would want to drive everyday though)

Mike D.

[joe]

Just my 2 cents on a couple of points mentioned. So far as the unleaded gas thing...don't worry about it. Granted there is/was an increased wear rate by using unleaded but it wasn't near as bad as all the "engineers" thought it would be back in the 70's. That rig has already been running no-lead for what 25 plus years now, I'm sure it will awhile longer. Most rigs and bikes I've owned have been from the leaded gas days and I've never yet seen any major increase in wear from being forced to run no-lead. Whatever you do Do Not use a lead fuel additive. There is no way pouring a lead additive into the gas tank will mix evenly. All you'll be doing is creating one seriously gummed up carb and set of spark plugs. Just run the motor the way it is and later when it's time to rebuild it go with having the seats hardened at that time.
If you plan to drop a V8 in it you'll need to upgrade the drivetrain also. The stock axles etc just won't hold up to a V8. A V8 also won't make it go any faster. The axle gearing is the limiting factor and you'll just be going though motors from running them at such a high RPM. 90% of the Willys Wags and PU's around here are all for sale stating "V8 ready" because they've already had one V8 swapped in and blown it up and then they sell the rig. :(
I would either plan to keep it pretty much stock and use it as it was intended to be used or plan on a major upgrade project if you want to bring it up to today's daily driver/hwy specs. All depends what you want to do and how much money you're willing to put into it. Good luck, that's a clean Utility. A bit spendy but nice looking.

[Bombadier]

When i say a SBC swap is in the future, i'd definitely swap out the whole drivetrain.... But the only reason i'd be in a hurry to do such a thing is if any major problems crop up later.

Actually, last night, i was wondering about at least a 258 I-6 instead of a SBC....

Anyhow, it seems Lindsey is way more excited about it than i am, so i told her since i'm losing the Bomb, i'd trade her the Willy's for BlueVelvet.... Problem is she doesn't know how to drive a manual.... :rolleyes:
Not that i can't teach her..... smile.gif

Oh yeah, you can blame 64Trvlr for my V8 ideas.... ;) ;) :D

-joe said:
"A bit spendy, but nice looking."

Yeah, i figured that $4k is getting up there, but then again, while we were looking at other Willys trucks for sale, on a whole they were rusted-out heaps, and usually for no less than $2,000.
So is $3500-4 a decent going rate for a clean stock Willys?

[ March 14, 2003, 08:55 AM: Message edited by: Bombadier ]

[andy d]

all i know is by 99k my 66valiant with a slant 6 needed a valve job, 3 yrs after leaded gas was phased out in MA. the valiant had tiny manual drum brakes. commuting to beantown was a PITA, because i had to leave several car lengths between me and next car. the gap was constantly being filled with overtaking cars. i had no trouble with my f head 6 Willys re the unleaded fuel, but it wasnt a daily driver. i only drove it to work a few times. once i was passed by a guy pulling a 45' sailboat. in its stock form, it wont make a good daily driver. imho. to modify for daily driver duties would greatly diminish its value as a true collectable. left stock the Willys should appreciate.

[Gargel-orum]

Ok, im pretty good at trouble shooting for shorts in wiring and finding the root of a problem when somethings got an electrical bug in it. but im lost- how DO you change a 6 volt positive ground to 12 volt negitive ground? im not talking more power or anything- just id like to not have to special order my light bulbs every time one burns out- and possable get some music in there soon- Oh and add some lights to the back (reverse, blinkers, brakes) ya, ya- i know that wount look stock, but itll make it a bit safer. I mean, I'D like to keep it stock save for maybe some bigger tires and an after market heater (12volt sys)

But seriously, if ever there where a drive train problem, the parts are out there- i dont see why we cant just rebuild it (engine, trans, transfer case) just as we all have to do with old vehicles. and keep the 4cyl in there, and when the time comes that we cant find those parts- then upgrade the drivetrain and engine.

I mean, i drive 55mh tops anyway cause i drive like grandma (speeed baaad) so not toping 50 is cool with me, the braking thing might be bad when you get those jerks that think you dissapear if they dont look at you and swerve into your lane- but so long as i can steer out of the way and stop- im happy.

Oh- AND I DO TO KNOW HOW TO DRIVE STICK, i just hadent had to do it in over 6 years, i need practice :D

[Nobby]

Firstly I'm not so sure that the willys is positive ground. Hopefully 64Tvlr or someone will chime in here.
Lets assume 6 - 12 volt original ground negative ground.
keep existing wiring if in good condition
- You'll need a 12v charger.
- Bulbs you'll need to swap out for 12v bulbs.
- Starter motor you may find different opinions on this 6 volt starters usually are OK can handle the 12v just spin faster. One problem though is that the bendix flys out really fast and i have heard people have suffered ring gear/ bendix problems. If you keep the 6volt (i would) you will need to change out to a 12 volt solonoid.
- Ignition - keep the coil, install ballast resistor. my previous post covered this. Points will be fine as is.
- Now the catchy part is auxillary stuff such as windscreen wiper motor, fuel senders, etc. Either by a 12 - 6 volt converter and feed them all from this. Or just place a drop resistor in front of each seperate unit. You could also try the 2-6 volt batterys in series like I suggested in my previous post and just tap of a +ve between them for those need to be 6 volt auxillarys.

Now if its a positive - negative ground conv as well.
- Lights will not care.
- Starter sometimes they will still spin the same way and sometimes you may need to re-wire it. Try it and see no luck, take it to a starter shop, or try and find a 12v starter.
- Ignition you will need to swap the wires on the coil so that +ve now goes to ign switch via ballast resistor and -ve to distributor.
- Now things like wiper motors etc may well be a problem i have read about inverters that can be purchased rather than try and find a -ve ground unit to fit.

Unleaded gas.
joe is right you will very often find that no real harm is created. The accerated wear just isn't that noticable. However it can happen as andy d pointed out. Depends on how hard you you are driving it. Marine gas engines suffer as do early tractors on high load work. Cars in every day use at higher highway rpms may well suffer.
Simple solution machine the head its not that hard to get to and do.
Lead Substitute is a mixed bag. Here is a report if you're interested.

http://www.mgcars.org.uk/electrical/Lead.html

I just found these links to give you even more info on 6-12 volt. Hope you like reading. smile.gif

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/12_volt.htm

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/SixVolt.html

http://www.ytmag.com/articles/artint131.htm

Toodle Pip

[ March 15, 2003, 08:41 AM: Message edited by: Nobby ]

[joe]

Originally posted by Gargel-orum:
how DO you change a 6 volt positive ground to 12 volt negitive ground?

I mean, i drive 55mh tops anyway cause i drive like grandma (speeed baaad) so not toping 50 is cool with me, Not to worry it'll be a conventional neg ground system.
So far as only driving 55 mph will depend on what gears you have. A 1950 could have 4.27's, 4.88's or 5.38's. I had a 50 Willys PU w/5.38's and it never saw 55 mph. 45 mph was a pretty comfortable speed(rpm wise). It'd go a bit faster but the motor would be wound up and that was with a swapped in 53 flathead inline six Dodge truck motor.
Glad to see you're thinking of keeping it pretty much stock. That one looks too nice to butcher. There are lots of other nice bodied but w/ butchered motor/drivetrains Willys out there to build up. Clean stock ones are getting rare.

[mdill]

I am pretty sure it will have 5.38 gears, I beleive with the 4 cyl that was the
norm, with the flat 6 the other ratios came in to play, that is just based on the
10 or so that I have had go though my hands, so don't take as full fact.
The wipers are/were vacumm so no change needed, the starter should be fine
as is, the heater blower motor might not last to long but I would run as is,maybe
add a inline blower resistor, the guage regulator would need something, the lights
bulbs need to be swaped (I think the sockets are OK) ballest resistor for the
igniton. If you want a half swap i.e. just an engine you could do something funky
like a quad four they like to spin fast,don't make a lot of torque to trash the trany
and make more than the 63 hp the 134 was good for. It would be interesting to
see what its road mannors would be.
I still vote leave it alone take care of it and drive it for what it is, they are fun as is,
you will learn to double clutch down shift to first, the brakes on these are fine if
in good shape. I think 3K - 4K for this nice of an example (Check to be sure it is
not a bondo sculpture) is in line if not a good deal.

Mike D.

Mike D

[Bombadier]

thanks for all the advice, guys. it really helps!
btw, the seller says that this truck was originally from New Mexico, so i'm thinking very little rust or Bondo :D

I'm not really concerned now with changing or adding anything electrical (except above mentioned heater, lights and stereo).... it's cool to know that i won't have to rewire the whole dang thing.

as for stopping, my corvair wasn't a champ at stopping either, or my dad's S-10, and i learned to drive on those two vehicles....
and that's what got me in the habit of leaving lots of room between cars and watching my back....
So drum brakes ain't got me too worried.

Pretty much whoever has to drive any distance will drive BlueVelvet, and the Willys will be for local stuff, and since we might be living on base, chances are the Willys won't see any major road use.....

Which is fine with me, all i'm concerned with is having a reliable motor in a classy vehicle which will get us from A to B while using as little gas as possible, and the Willys will serve that purpose i think.

That means i won't have to keep a Cherokee street legal for a daily driver..... :D
As soon as we get to where we're going and settled in for my new lifestyle (hooah!), i'll be looking for a Cherokee to monsterize for a dirt playtoy. smile.gif

One thing i was wondering about, what sorts of gearsets would i look for if this Willys does have 5.38 gears?
If i'm living in the mountains, that low of a gearing would be great, but anywhere flat... i dunno.....

The most modifying i'm thinking of doing would be to swap in an early 6cyl when the F134 doesn't cut it anymore.... some larger tires, and thats it really. smile.gif

[ March 15, 2003, 10:54 AM: Message edited by: Bombadier ]

[Bombadier]

Here are some pics, and some questions.

This truck used to have foglights, CB/Radio, winch, and has some sort of lift on it.
We went and looked at it today, it really is a clean truck, and in not too shabby a condition. Better than my Cherokee, and it's 30 years older.

What kind of axles are these? Front is closed knuckle.
The front leaf springs has the helper springs under the spring pack.... i thought they go on top???? :confused:
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/1947-1965-Willys/WFrDiff.jpg http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/1947-1965-Willys/WRrDiff.jpg

Also, what are these switches and knobs for? There's one small toggle switch on the floor on front of the seatbox.
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/1947-1965-Willys/WODash.jpg

And in this picture, does this look like a 12V alternator? What about the starter, is it not stock? Also, by the carb, it appears to be a vacuum port, does it attach to anything?
And the big cannister, it's a filter?
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/1947-1965-Willys/F134Q.jpg

We couldn't locate a master brake cylinder, where is it?? Also MIA was a parking brake, we didn't have to take it off before we test drove the truck, does one exist? :confused:

[ March 18, 2003, 01:16 AM: Message edited by: Bombadier ]

[andy d]

thats an alt. prolly a 1 wire delco.12 volts smile.gif thats a basket type oil filter. i used to get the filter element from napa

[64Trvlr]

(1) front axle is a Dana 25
(2) rear axle is a Dana 41
(3) black knob could be heater control knob, need a better pic of the other you refer to
(4) the knob next to ignition should be the choke
(5) the others may be cig lighter and light switch
(6) vacuum port was for vacuum wipers, looks like someone has swapped to electric already so plug the port
(7) big canister is the oil filter
(8) that is a 12v alternator
(9) you also have a 12v battery, but put a hold down on it
(10) master brake cyl is under the drivers side floor, get under and look
:cool:

[64Trvlr]

One last thing, it's Willys not Willies.
:cool:

[Nobby]

Great she's already been 12 volt converted.

Switch above the gauges at top of the dash does it have three positions? Probably for the electric wiper motor addition.
Toggle switch on the floor - foot actuated high low beam switch?

She looks nice and clean. have fun. smile.gif

[64Trvlr]

Originally posted by Nobby:
Switch above the gauges at top of the dash does it have three positions? Probably for the electric wiper motor addition. The switch should be on and off, I've never seen a 2 speed wiper for these Jeeps.
:cool:

[Bombadier]

the seller told us the single switch on top of the dash is for the wipers, but it didn't actually do anything....
There's a foot hi-lo beam button by the clutch, but the little toggle on the bottom of the seat didn't do anything.... Maybe it went to a winch???

Anyways, we didn't have much time at all to really go over it, it had been raining hard, and was getting ready to again. Since the drivers side window is missing, we had to put it back in the garage ASAP..... :mad:

Originally posted by 64Trvlr:
(10) master brake cyl is under the drivers side floor, get under and look
:cool: Duh! <----- me :rolleyes:

What's the deal with those axles? I've been told they're supposed to be Timken 2-piece axles?
Are D25 & D41 axles decent for the time being?

Also, i remember seeing a Warn logo'ed plate on the T-case, what could that be about????

And can i run a different type of oil filter?

[ March 18, 2003, 03:19 PM: Message edited by: Bombadier ]

[joe]

64trav knows way more than I do about the Willys rigs but I haven't heard of a D41. My thoughts would be it's a D44 or D53 rear. Look at the cast web/gussets at the housing. In the web closest to the pumpkin it shoud have the model cast into the web(top side).

Warn logo huh? How many levers you got on the floor? Maybe you've got the optional Warn OD unit bolted to the tcase? You should have one tranny lever and 2 tcase levers. Any extras are either for the winch or an OD unit.

So far the filter goes...those work just fine but I suppose you could hook up an aftermarket remote spin-on instead if you feel you really want one.

[Bombadier]

it's got four shifters, the seller said one for 1st-3rd gears, one stick for 2hi-2lo, one stick for 2wd-4wd, and one stick for 4hi-4lo....

[Gargel-orum]

64Trvlr -

we didnt acctully get to mess around with any of the electrical stuff- didnt get to see the lights on or the wipers (rain, dark, we got there late). The toggle switch didnt do anything when we had the key turned but the engine was not running- dose those kind of wipers only come on when the engine is running? and the key felt like it had an accessory postion..is it sopose to (meaning are things sopose to work without the engine on) or is that just due to being an after market thing.

[64Trvlr]

Originally posted by Bombadier:
it's got four shifters, the seller said one for 1st-3rd gears, one stick for 2hi-2lo, one stick for 2wd-4wd, and one stick for 4hi-4lo....It sounds like you have one shifter for the transmission, two for the transfercase and one for either a PTO or an overdrive. Look under the drivers side of the Jeep on the back of the transfer case and see if there is an aluminum housing bolted to the case. If so you have a Warn overdrive, if not look for a PTO.
:cool:

[Bombadier]

Yup, it's got the Warn Overdrive, someone definitely did some work on this truck, or was it a factory option?

I've never used a manual overdrive on a manual transmission, what's the story on it?
Just use it after 3rd gear for reaching highway speeds and towing? (i.e.- split gears?)

We were also wondering about power-steering conversions. What works best, maybe something out of a CJ?? We need something cheaper than what AdvanceAdapters offers for power-steering conversions

[ March 18, 2003, 09:20 PM: Message edited by: Bombadier ]

[tuckers89GW]

SWEET WILLIES. I'd leave it stock if is was mine, but if you get it, you do what you want. smile.gif .

[64Trvlr]

Originally posted by Bombadier:
Yup, it's got the Warn Overdrive, someone definitely did some work on this truck, or was it a factory option?
Just use it after 3rd gear for reaching highway speeds and towing? Factory option, you can split all three gears . You aren't going to tow much with the F head in there. LMAO
:cool:

[mdill]

Sweet , overdrive He might be able to do 65 mph (with a tail wind smile.gif ).
Is there a button on the floor by the tranny tunnel ? If so
that would be the starter ! Turn the ignition switch on push
button to start.
I have only seen the Timken rears under the pickups not on
any of the wagons. (But what do I know)

Mike D.

[Gargel-orum]

ya- i dont know why he insists on the fact that its gonna tow- it dosnt need to, we got the wag! joel figures truck=towing :eek: :D i'll work on that tongue.gif tongue.gif

but with the overdrive it can do hiway speeds?? like 55-60 max? cause thats the max any vehicle of mine ever sees. ;) iv never driven anything where you can spit the gears, how dose that work? shift to 2nd, then 2nd and a half or 3rd and half? ok, so im oblivious to the overdrive thing smile.gif

then by that, could it be kept stock save for upgrading to disk brakes inorder to be drivin where normal cars go?

[joe]

Originally posted by Gargel-orum:
ya- i dont know why he insists on the fact that its gonna tow- it dosnt need to, we got the wag! joel figures truck=towing :eek: :D i'll work on that tongue.gif tongue.gif Do that. ;) It'll tow great so far as pulling one of your kid's 4x4 mis-adventures out of the ditch or pulling down trees, barns etc. It has the gears just not the HP to pull a 23ft trav trailer down the road unless you can live with toddlers sticking half chewed gummie bears on your windshield as they speed by you on their plastic Big Wheels. ;)


but with the overdrive it can do hiway speeds?? like 55-60 max? If the steering, suspension, brakes etc is in decent shape 55 will be no prob for the motor rpm wise.
There is some info I think on Advance Adapters site on what they call the Saturn OD unit. It's basically the same unit as the old non-avail Warn OD that they bought the rights to so they can manufacture new ones. Don't remember the url but a google search will get you there. Also check out Turners 4WD at www.thejeep.com (http://www.thejeep.com) They sell a repop of the early W-O Utility Station Wagon/Truck shop manuals for about $35. This should be a "must have" for you. I know this is a "new baby in the house and what if it cries in the middle of the night" thing for you folks but just spend some time driving it. You'll see soon enough what these old gems will/will not do comfortably. Keep in mind it was built before the paved US Interstate Hwy system was even started and folks weren't in a big'a hurry back then nor traveled so far so use it accordingly and you'll be smiling while driving. smile.gif

[ March 19, 2003, 06:40 PM: Message edited by: -joe ]

[mdill2]

I never had a big issue with the stock brakes,
a non-overdrive would wrap pretty hard at 50+
mph, with overdrive it should be fine up to
60 ish. Personally I would drive as is fix
what is needed and enjoy.

Mike D.

[mdill2]

Oh. If you don't undrstand the over drive
it is a extra gear box with exactly the same
idea as the low range unit that was on the
7X-79 quadratracks, bolts to the back of the
transfercase and interepts the output of the
trany and gears up the output. I don't remember
the ratio off hand but say it is 20% in overdrive
it will spin the transfercase input 20% faster
than the trans output, and in normal mode will
spin the transfercase input at the same speed as
the tranny output. (the quadratrack was the same
idea but rather than over drive they were under
drive)

Mike D.