It's ALIVE! Now clutch Q

[Cecil14]

Ok, it's alive and driving so I'm doing pretty good. Got a q about different clutch forks though.

Is the fork from the 80's clutches (diaphram style) any longer outside the bellhousing than the 70's ones (3 finger jobs)?

I'm thinking they are and that's why I'm having trouble getting the throw right. I kinda cheated and "modified" an older fork that I had and used a newer style pressure plate and throw-out bearing.

Any insights?

Anthony

[carrotman]

On my 76, I went from an original three-finger (Bork&Beck?) to Centerforce (diaphram) without changing the fork. The fork only moves the throw out bearing. Doesn't really matter that the bearing pushes against fingers or diaphram.

I also modified the little nubs on my fork that ride in the groove on the throw out bearing. My nubs were flat on one side because the bearing was bad and rubbed the nubs flat. Had a welder build it up and I filed it round. Did you adjust the vertical rod from the clutch pedal before you adjusted the horizontal rod on the bellcrank?

[Cecil14]

The rod inside isn't adjustable and that's not my problem. I'm not getting enough throw to engage and disengage the clutch all the way. I know the pressure plate itself doesn't matter but I'm thinking the newer style fork that came with the diaphram clutches is longer, changing the overall throw of the clutch.

The forks are different because they changed the throw-out when they went with the diaphram. The older ones use the two little pins to hold the throw-out in place and the newer ones have two clips on the throw-out to keep it in place.

Anthony

[carrotman]

Anthony, my 76 TSM shows the clips on the throwout bearing for the CJ. Must have used this one for the 258 on your Wizard. The clutch linkage shown for the CJ doesn't have the adjustable vertical rod. The Cherokee and truck linkage shows a pivot ball on the lower part of the rod with a lock nut.

If yours doesn't have it, why not bring the release rod (the horizontal rod with the adjuster) to a welder. Cut it above the threads and add on an inch or two of rod. Easier than taking the bellhousing off and changing forks.

[Stuka]

from what I can telll, compairing my 75 too my 81, the 75's arm sticks farther outside the bell housing by about 1" or so compaired to the 81's, which is so short the rod is about 1/16" from rubbing on the bell housing.

[Cecil14]

Originally posted by Stuka:
from what I can telll, compairing my 75 too my 81, the 75's arm sticks farther outside the bell housing by about 1" or so compaired to the 81's, which is so short the rod is about 1/16" from rubbing on the bell housing.That's what I needed to know. That's my problem then. I used an older fork with newer everything else. I also had to get everything I ordered for a CJ, although so far everything looks the same as my T-176 setup from what I can remember.

The inside rod is adjustable it's just that the stud has right-hand threads on both sides so I have to pull everything apart to adjust it anyway. And even if I lengthen it that won't change the overall throw of my clutch, the pedal will still only move so far.

Thanks guys, looks like I need a new fork.

Anthony