Limited Slip or Locker

[Cliff]

Replacing the 2.73 gears in my M20 rear with 3.54. The carrier I have is open, and I want either LS or a locking rear. I really don't want a locker, but the EZ-Locker and Lock-Right look good since they are not full time locked. The price is right compared to an Auburn LS or Trac-Lock ($350-450). If anyone out there has the EZ or Lock-Right, I would like to hear your comments.

[waggin'ear]

I've got lock-rites in one of my trucks (only got 1000k on them). Learing to make tight turns and parking is pretty interesing at first, but you get used to it. I would not recommend it for a daily driver. I think a LSD would be better or save your money and get a selectable locker.

[tito]

Cliff,

Check out the Powertrax No-Slip locker (not the standard Lockrite). It's a locker that functions like a limited slip. Going around corners, etc. it disengages itself. The key is it only engages when power is applied. If you're pushing the go pedal it will stay engaged and act like a locked diff. I've found it to be the best of both worlds. If you can learn to ease off the gas on corners, you'll never know it's there except for some little clicking noises from it locking in/out. By self-disengaging it eliminates a lot of the bind up tension on the axles. I thought it performed like a champ at Tellico on rocks and river crossings. Of course, every now and then I have to make sure it's locking when I leave a parking lot (read as "intentional tire chirping")

The only drawback I've found is shifting in reverse from drive is hard. The "clang" sounds like the driveshaft u-joints are coming out. But that seems to be from the locker taking up slack in the diff gears because if I can roll in reverse a few feet before shifting, it shifts in like silk.

Cost me under $450 for the kit. Supposed to be a 1-2 hour job for a novice knuckle buster. I had to have mine installed because I didn't have the equipment to get the pinion retaining screw out that the DSPO had sheared off.

http://www.powertrax.com/noslip.htm

[Panoscopic]

Forget the "lunchbox lockers" like the Powertrax No-slip if you have a manual trans. The extra drivetrain slop is a REAL ANNOYANCE when you shift, plus it has a spring action that makes the drivetrain bounce. Plus, on the street, you are in one wheel drive all the time unless you are going in a perfectly straight line. A big pain while turning from a stoplight and driving in the rain. I've had one on my TJ and can't stand it anymore. It comes off as soon as I can find the time.

[Stuka]

The baby lockers wont last in a rig as heavy as our. If you want ann LSD go with a Detroit Tru-Trac. If you want a locker, go with a Detroit Locker. If you want selectable go ARB or Ox.

The detroit Locker locks soon as you give it any gas, or if your going and one tire slips it will lock. If your idling it can unlock, unless your on a steep hill, then it will be locked because your having to use a good amount of throttle. It does have some "slop", but its easy to get used to. I hardly notice it in my cherokee now (with a T18a 4sp)

The Detroit Tru-Trac is one of the stronger of the limited slips out there. I am planning on putting one in my J10 when I regear it (its a daily driver with limited trail usage)

There is also the power-loc. Its a goood limited slip that locks when you give it gas, the more throttle you give it, the tighter it locks.

[Subconscious]

I have to cast a vote against a Lock-Right.

I had one in a '99 TJ, for a year (~10K). I removed it before I sold the TJ. The teeth showed what I thought to be abnormal wear. The edges of the teeth were really worn down. I think it might have lasted another 5K before it broke, or quit engaging.

Now, it was awsome off-road. It did a great job. I just think it has a durability issue. My TJ was totally stock. And as mentioned above, it gave the TJ pretty bad on-road manners.

My next locker will be a selectable locker, either an OX locker, or an ARB. I don't even bother thinking about limited slips. Selectable lockers give you the best of both worlds.

[badaboom]

I use trac-locs DANA stay stock and you will ROCK
;)

[FSJeeper]

Powerlock is the strongest of the LSD's and you can tune it from relatively mild to almost like a Detroit by preloading the disc's or even adding one.

Trac Loc's are OK for mild use and cheaper.

[Hammer]

Another vote against the lock-wrong. That 'slop' you talk about caused me to shear the teeth of my ring and pinion (mostly pinion) from down shifting and being 'hard' on the gas. Probably wouldn't be bad for a front axle though.
Detriot is strong. Period. But for the annoyances of it, and if you want that much traction, get a spool. Otherwise Auburn makes an excellent product. Costly, but worth it if that is your driving style.

[badaboom]

FSJeeper
Never CHEAP just less expensive.
I have been running trac-locs on my J10 since 1988. I have yet to have a complaint from them.

If you are spending alot of time Off-road and a substancial amount of that time over very difficult terrain go Locker.

[Stuka]

My J10 currently has a trac-loc, it works very well if you use the brakes right. But when I go up to 3.54's I will need a new carrier for the back. I may go power-loc. Will have to check around when the time comes.

[ June 26, 2003, 10:09 AM: Message edited by: Stuka ]

[FSJeeper]

Over the years, for the FSJ's I used as daily drivers with no difficult four wheeling, I was very pleased with the factory trac lok. Perfect manners on the street and decent off road but in these cases the limiting factor wa all terrain tires, not the LSD.

The trac lok disc do wear out though and need to be replaced or you pretty much end up with an open diff.

[Kaiserjeeps]

POWR-LOC!! They are strong and they work. Want it tighter? Take out the clutches and swap the two flats with curved ones. Makes it nice and tight. This does not work on a dana 30 Powr-loc. Go to vernco.com and study up on the Powr-loc. One of the guys (Thornton) that helped design the Powr-loc also did some good things for the studebaker car.