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View Full Version : Thinking of Buying a 76 Cherokee Chief What to Look For?


Tigger
07-30-2003, 12:29 PM
I know a guy that has a 76 Cherokee Chief for sale, I haven't seen it and all I know about it is that is has a V8, and a manual transmission with a granny 1st gear.

What type of things should I look for when I look at it? (meaning problem areas etc)
What motor should it have?
What transmission?
Transfer Case?
Axles?

I am thinking of making this a DD, the tow vehicle for my YJ, and a back up wheeling vehicle.

idoc
07-30-2003, 01:23 PM
It should have a 360 engine (unless you are really lucky, then it may be a 401), a T18a tranny, Dana 20 TC. Axles will be dana 44 front and rear.

In my opinion this is a very good setup for the drive train.

I would crawl under and check the fenders, rockers, floor and frame for rust.

Good luck and welcome.

joe
07-30-2003, 01:36 PM
If your main goal is a tow rig check the axle ratios. Stock gears in a 76 Chero were 3.07 and 3.54 optional. If it doesn't have the optional 3.54's you won't think much of the 3.07's for towing.

brielly
07-30-2003, 01:46 PM
Check the frame right near the gas tank for rust.

joe
07-30-2003, 01:58 PM
Originally posted by brielly:
Check the frame right near the gas tank for rust.That's a good thing to do on any rig I guess but frame rot behind the tank is only a problem with FSJ's from 1980 and later that use the plastic tank and sheet metal tank mount that traps mude etc.

Tigger
07-30-2003, 01:58 PM
Idoc, Joe & Brielly, Thanks guys. I appriciate it. I hope it is a 401. The axle ratio's are a concern, but I can always regear to different set. I had the 3.07's in my YJ and I didn't care for them at all even with 31" tires.

Zac
07-30-2003, 02:54 PM
I think the best test to ever do is a cylinder compression test it can tell you so much. just my .02
Zac

Tigger
08-11-2003, 05:56 AM
Ok Guys I have been keeping up with this board since my first post and I have a few questions. I will be looking at this Cherokee this weekend. How can I tell the difference between a NT and a WT?, the owner said it was a "Super Chief" what is that? Anything on the interior I should look for? I will do a compression check on the engine and look at the plugs, get under it check the frame and axles, ujoints, brake lines, fuel lines, steering components, tires, brakes.

I am thinking this will start as somewhat of a project since the interior has been taken out. The owner was looking to see if there were any rust holes because of an exhaust smell inside when all the windows were closed tight.

[ August 11, 2003, 11:59 AM: Message edited by: Tigger ]

tgreese
08-11-2003, 08:11 AM
I've only owned an SJ for about 2 months now, but I have some experience with Jeeps from my dealership days.

NT vs WT would be obvious if you saw them side by side. The WT has steel fender flares like the pickup; NT fenders look like the Wagoneer. Look at some examples is at reader's rigs on the IFSJA main page.

Some problem areas that I have noted from reading and FH experience:
o body rust, especially floors, rocker panels and around the flares.
o sagging headliner
o inoperable electric windows and door locks;
o inoperable tailgate windows;
o gauges that don't work;
o worn out timing cover -> low oil pressure on the 360 and 401;
o cracks around the rear spring hangers on the front springs (may be peculiar to lifted vehicles)
o almost all the 360/401s I've heard about have been rebuilt once or twice;
o since they're good as highway cruisers, many of these cars have horrible high miles, like 300K or 400K;
o parts can be had, but they aren't common.

I'd say you're better off with fewer gadgets like electric locks, seat, windows etc. since they seem to bbe broken usually. This is something that I noticed when I worked at the dealer; lots of the secondary systems on Jeeps weren't very well engineered. For example, the emergency brake pedal worked fine as long as you pushed straight down - if you pushed sideways, it would bend and the ratchet would no longer catch.

The Borg-Warner T18 manual transmission and Dana 20 transfer case are sturdy and should last a long time. The T18 tends to make a lot of gear noise - don't be alarmed. If it has a postive traction rear axle, it'll be a Dana-Spicer Trac-Loc, and probably be worn out (ie act like an open diff).
The truck probably has power steering; if not, that's some price leverage for you. I believe power front disks were standard by '76.

hth :cool: TIm

tgreese
08-11-2003, 08:32 AM
BTW if it's a 401, it'll have "401" cast in to the side of the block in big letters.

tgreese
08-11-2003, 08:53 AM
"Super Chief" may mean the Cherokee Chief "S" package, which was an upgraded trim level.

Will Morris
08-11-2003, 01:33 PM
With Axle gearing standard for a Chief should be 3.54:1. In the old adds that I've collected, thats what it's advertised. The NT or Wagoneer stock is 3.07:1. That's what I've read and experienced first hand on three FSJs. If you're looking to tow with it and it has a healthy engine 3.54s should be fine with 31s. Before I tore into my '78 Chief, I towed our boat with it which weighs nearly 3k. It's not much, but I never even noticed it was back there, so towing over 5k shouldn't be a problem with trailer brakes. Also, it might have optional 3.73:1 or possibly 4.09:1 gears. I forget if the 4.09s were offered. Oh, and as a '76 you'll have flat top knuckles which is nice for doing high steering should you do a spring over.

Will

Sitting Bull
08-11-2003, 01:48 PM
Originally posted by Tigger:
Ok Guys I have been keeping up with this board since my first post and I have a few questions. I will be looking at this Cherokee this weekend. How can I tell the difference between a NT and a WT?, the owner said it was a "Super Chief" what is that? Anything on the interior I should look for?.--------

Just a side note, don't let him talk you up on the price because it says Super Cheif and it's "really rare". The super he is referring to is an "S" on the Cheif emblem - which all cheif's came with. It doesn't really stand for anything (sport maybe?). I've seen a few new guys get dooped by this approach...not calling you a greenhorn or anything, I'd just hate to see him get you up another $500 because it's "super". It's an SJ, they're all super!

Tigger
08-11-2003, 01:54 PM
Tgreese - I will look at all of that thank you.

Will - Thanks for the information gears is something I know will be a concern with making this a tow vehicle for my YJ. I am new to the FSJ stuff, and I know all about gearing and stuff for YJ's so that is really helpful. Flat top knuckles, are cool I will consider an SOA on this at some point and time and glad i have that Front end and the ability with out too much trouble.

Sitting Bull - I am new to this, it will be my first. The owner I have known for about 8 years now, he needs to sell it because he is transferring and I need a second vehicle so I know he will not try anything but I do appriciate the heads up.

[ August 11, 2003, 07:57 PM: Message edited by: Tigger ]

tgreese
08-11-2003, 02:12 PM
Originally posted by Will Morris:
With Axle gearing standard for a Chief should be 3.54:1. In the old adds that I've collected, thats what it's advertised. The NT or Wagoneer stock is 3.07:1. <snip> Also, it might have optional 3.73:1 or possibly 4.09:1 gears. I forget if the 4.09s were offered.'77 FSM confirms that std/opt was 3.54/4.09 on the WT (model 17) and J-10 (25 & 45). The Wagoneer (15) and NT (16 & 18) came with 3.07/3.54. Can't really be sure about the 3.54 or 4.09 in the NT - it's not clear from the way it's printed. The J-20 (model 46) was 3.73/4.09.

It's interesting (at least to me) that the 258/T18a WT was only offered with 4.09s, while the J-10s could be 3.54 or 4.09. Why would Jeep do that? Also, you could get a 401 WT with 4.09s, but the 401 J-10 was only offered with 3.54s. What could that be about - trailer pulling?

regards :cool: Tim

[ August 12, 2003, 10:59 AM: Message edited by: tgreese ]

Panther
08-12-2003, 03:07 AM
IT's already been mentioned but check the rear quarters and rear flares. The sheet metal on the WT isn't the quality of the J trucks. Also crawl under it and look at the frame and body mounts, clutch linkage, exhaust etc. The clutch linkage is FSJ and V8 specific and I don't think the bellcrank is available anymore.

Sitting Bull makes a good point, there really isn't anything "unique" or "rare" about these rigs.

If the price it right go for it, I flat tow with 3.31s and T18 and it does really well.