raybuck flares...exact replica???

[Sitting Bull]

Are the Raybuck fiberglass replacement flares (rear) an exact replica of the original? I seen a WT this weekend with a different flare on the rear (close, but not quite right) and was wondering if that's what the raybuck's looks like.

[Narnian]

I can't tell U about the Raybuck fiberglas rears. I purchased a set from JC Whitney back when they still sold them. I think they may be from the same co. They were EXACTLY right. Unfortunately, I never could figure out how to mount them, and I eventually gave them to the junkyard that took my old Cherry away (wish I had kept them now that I have another).

I HAVE purchased the raybuck steel fenders for my wide track. I haven't tried to mount them yet. They look identical in molding etc, but they are fabricated from a much thinner steel than my 81. I don't think it would be noticeable when they are painted, but I don't think they would hold up as well as the originals when faced with bushes and branches on the side of the trail.

[dfitz]

I'm intersted in those flares myself, but I not to sure about how to remove to old originals....what is reccomended? air chissel?

[Sitting Bull]

I didn't know raybuck made steel flares for the rear. Thanks for the tip, I think may go with them. Are they a single piece of metal, or does it have a cavity like the originals?

Thanks!

OK, I just called Raybucks, they said they don't make steel ones. Where did you get your's from???

[ December 18, 2001: Message edited by: Sitting Bull ]

[Crazy_Jeepman]

The way I understand that. He has bought steel front fenders for his WT from Raybuck. Had a set of fiberglass rear flares but got rid of them. I have never heard of anyone selling steel flares for the rear. Possible though ;)

[Chero77]

I purchased a Raybuck's fiberglass rear flare for my rig and decided not to install it. The exteriour surface of the flare is an exact match for the WT flare, but there is no good way to install it without losing a lot of structural rigidity. Thus, I would reccomend against it. I just patched my flares with long-strand fiberglass body filler. Eighteen months and a lot of pounding later still no cracks. By the way, I later ran across a Wide Track with one perfect rust free flare at Ecology. Rented a sawsall from Home Depot and cut out it out. Paid $12 for the flare, $20 for the tool rental. I would say if at all possible salvage the existing flares. Weld in new metal, use fiberglass filler, or find a rust free original at a boneyard and cut it out. I would not use a Raybucks fiberglass flare.

[Sitting Bull]

So Dave....

ya' wanna sell that flare? My Jeep is rust free (beleive it or not), but the dude hit a tree right at the flare. I don't think I can save it, it's just too far mashed in. I'm gonna have to get something. Want any parts in trade?

[Maynard]

I got all my body parts from Raybuck, the fiberglass flares, front right fender and quarter panels for each side, once you get the flares in it makes everything very solid, you cant even tell that they are fiberglass, the biggest PITA is the quarter panels are made for a narrow track, so you have to do some cutting to get them to work.

[wn]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Maynard:
I got all my body parts from Raybuck, the fiberglass flares, front right fender and quarter panels for each side, once you get the flares in it makes everything very solid, you cant even tell that they are fiberglass, the biggest PITA is the quarter panels are made for a narrow track, so you have to do some cutting to get them to work.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


I have a set of raybucks and they fit perfectly. I mounted mine with self tapping sheet metal screws screwed into the lip of the remaining fender. I predrilled the fiberglass holes first.

I used a jig saw to cut out the old flares. The old ones are are in two pieces and I cut off the outer layer first then the inner layer.

I'll try to post some pictures of the finished product.

[wn]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by wn:



I have a set of raybucks and they fit perfectly. I mounted mine with self tapping sheet metal screws screwed into the lip of the remaining fender. I predrilled the fiberglass holes first.

I used a jig saw to cut out the old flares. The old ones are are in two pieces and I cut off the outer layer first then the inner layer.

I'll try to post some pictures of the finished product.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Here are a couple of photos....There's about 7 months between photos. I am putting the trim back on and it is trimmed out in black like the original.
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/dubinsky8561/lst?&.dir=/cherokee&.src=ph&.view=t&.last=1

[ December 19, 2001: Message edited by: wn ]

[jeepguzzi]

I have a set of raybucks flares for sale. I had mine repaired with steel, as they were not as far gone as I had thought. :cool:

[Duckman]

Are there any flares aviailable to use when you cut out the wheel wells. I have seen bushwacker flares for fords and chevys but not Jeeps. I would like to cut the wells out but retain the wide flare look.

[wn]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Duckman:
Are there any flares aviailable to use when you cut out the wheel wells. I have seen bushwacker flares for fords and chevys but not Jeeps. I would like to cut the wells out but retain the wide flare look.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The raybuck flare is a widetrack flare....When you say you want to cut out the wheel wells, do you mean the hump inside the truck that covers the wheel. If you cut that out you'll be slinging mud all over the place. The raybuck flares do go over the outer edge of the wheel well to keep mud and water out.

[Narnian]

I only purchased the fronts (fenders) from Raybuck.

Raybuck USED to sell rear flares in steel, but they stopped selling them about three years ago. It was actually (from what they described) a piece of the rear quaterpanel with the flare attached, and you would cut the body out and attach the new piece complete.

If I coulda bought that I woulda. It's not available anywhere anymore as far as I know. There are a few junkyards that supposedly sell that same section for anywhere between $300 and $500 a pop.

I think it would be wisest to try and rescue whatever you have, if it is at all possible. I'm waiting for Ralph to open his body shop so he can patch mine, which have just begun decaying.

The fiberglass rears are purdy, but I can't see them lasting very long off road. If your beast stays on pavement it should be fine. One little trick I picked up though that might save you some headaches.

Rocks from the road can shatter your fiberglass fender. When you install it, line the inside with tire tube rubber. This will keep rocks from tearing through it, give it strength (glue it on) and make them a little quieter.