View Full Version : bleeding the brakes
Langdon
04-03-2001, 01:21 PM
Man, I missed this board! Glad it's back...
Now: Can anyone describe how they held the brake proportioning valve (type W) open for bleeding? I think mine is busted, there's only a tiny nub sticking out...
Thanks,
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Langdon
'79 Cherokee (PO)S
360 2bbl, TH400, Q-Trac
"My heart's in the Jeep, but my Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogley is in debt!"
andy d
04-03-2001, 05:14 PM
im a bit spaced from a long work day,but i dont remember havin to mess with the proportioning valve ever and ive done 3 different complete brakeline replacements
rhamby
04-12-2001, 07:06 AM
You have a stock brake system? Should just have to bleed them in the right order and be done.
River Beast
04-12-2001, 07:43 AM
I know what you are referring to.. the nipple that should be depressed when bleeding the brakes to allow proper centering of the valve in the body that regulates pressure between the rear drums and front discs.
I had to mess with this on my Chebbie, but not my FSJ...no...I don't know why....
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Todd
"River Beast" (http://home.earthlink.net/~tjnkk)
http://home.earthlink.net/~riverbeast/rbthnl.jpg
14" of total Lift on 39.5" Swampers
44's locked with 4.89's
...and other stuff...
My Original FSJ site (http://www.geocities.com/spazz4life)
riverbeast@earthlink.net
"When approaching an intersection, remember...
the vehicle with the BIGGEST TIRES has the right of way..."
'93 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban...a.k.a. "FSJ Hauler"
Veepster
04-12-2001, 10:37 AM
TSM says you have to.....and I think it said there were 2 different style prop valves....
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BobBarry
04-12-2001, 03:47 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Langdon:
Now: Can anyone describe how they held the brake proportioning valve (type W) open for bleeding? I think mine is busted, there's only a tiny nub sticking out...<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
If it's the little nub you have to hold in (like mine), this may help. I bent a short piece of galvanized metal strap into an "L" shape, loosened the bolts attaching the proportioning valve to the frame, wedged the long end of the strap between the valve and the frame so that the short leg of the "L" depressed the nub, and tighted down the bolts.
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Bob Barry<UL TYPE=SQUARE>* '78 Cherokee 4-door
* '88 Grand Wagoneer[/list]http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/
River Beast
04-13-2001, 02:11 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BobBarry:
If it's the little nub you have to hold in (like mine), this may help. I bent a short piece of galvanized metal strap into an "L" shape, loosened the bolts attaching the proportioning valve to the frame, wedged the long end of the strap between the valve and the frame so that the short leg of the "L" depressed the nub, and tighted down the bolts.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Sorry.... that's what I foregot to say when I posted.... that is the BEST way to ensure you have it depressed. I will be doing my brake system here shortly and MUST remember this... thanks Bob
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Todd
"River Beast" (http://home.earthlink.net/~tjnkk)
http://home.earthlink.net/~riverbeast/rbthnl.jpg
14" of total Lift on 39.5" Swampers
44's locked with 4.89's
...and other stuff...
My Original FSJ site (http://www.geocities.com/spazz4life)
riverbeast@earthlink.net
"When approaching an intersection, remember...
the vehicle with the BIGGEST TIRES has the right of way..."
'93 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban...a.k.a. "FSJ Hauler"
Langdon
04-16-2001, 06:49 AM
Thanks for the replies...but mine is the kind that must be pulled out. I took out the piece, pushed it out, and grabbed the nub with vicegrips. Then carfully installed it.
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