Need advise on this Diagnosis***Update...help..:)

[shadowfax101]

As everyone knows I have been having the stall and no go after problem. I have tested spark coming from the coil by grounding out the wire doing to the cap, I get spark. Can a coil get weak? Or when they are bad, they are bad?

This is what I was thinging...I noticed my trigger wheel and pick up was in rusty shape. I can tell from the warmth in the exhust manifold when trying to crank that I am getting spark and fuel. I was thinking that the trigger wheel and pick up were not sending the correct information to the ignition module. Could this be the cause

It would not be hot in the exhaust manifold if I was not getting fuel and spark? am I right in thinking that.

I think that the timing is gone due to the trigger wheel and the pick up information going to the ignition module. This problem makes me thing of the ignition mod first, but I have already put two on it to test. and both of them work fine at the autozone test, and neither of them will crank at cool temps.

Thanks guys.

[ June 11, 2002, 04:00 PM: Message edited by: shadowfax101 ]

[shadowfax101]

Update******

When I check the voltage to the coil with the ignition module I get .66 volts. When I unplug the 4 pin connector I get the voltage at the coil to be 11.14. When I also disconnect the 2 pin plug I get 11.00 volts on the top of the coil. No volts on top of the coil with the two pin plug pluged in. So could I have two bad modules and both test good at autozone, or does my problem lerk elsewhere. I thought I sould be having 12 volts at the coil not 11.14. The battery has 12.4

I still have to change out the distributor cause of the broken trigger wheel. so that will leave me with a new pick up as well

Do I need to replace the coil since I am only getting 11.14 volts???

I WILL BE GETTING A NEW IGNITION MOD AND AUTOZONE CAN TEST IT ALL THEY WANT!!!!

[ June 11, 2002, 04:02 PM: Message edited by: shadowfax101 ]

[PhilSine]

Coils are cheap (you can buy a cheap one for around $14 or really go to town and pay $50), if its been a while since you replaced it (or never depending on how long you've owned the Jeep) then go for it and get a new one. If nothing else, you will eliminate the coil from the troubloshooting equation as well be confident of the coil's history.

[shadowfax101]

Well I have the MSD Blaster 2 coil....(50.00 coil)
I did buy it after it had sat on the shelf for a while, and it was an Ebay buy. I guess that is what I get for going cheap. I have been having a weak spark problem, so I guess I will change out the coil, brain box, and coil tomorrow..

[PhilSine]

A cheap module is about $30. For trouble shooting purposes I'd buy the cheap ones for now, upgrade later, and keep the cheapies in my spare parts kit.

[LHopper]

WOW;; That sounds just like what my 78 was doing for the longest time, until I replaced my distrlbutor. Cost $80.00 with $75.00 core well worth it. good luck.

[Stolen76]

Have you checked the clearance between the trigger and the pick up ? You said it was rusty, you may be missing the signal as it heats up from expansion of the metal parts, also warn dist bushings allowing the shaft to wabble a bit cause problems when warm. I don't know why that is, but it's happened to me on a couple of cars.

Your voltage drop @ 1.3 volts doesn't sound good, it doesn't sound bad either tho. Check all of your connections and if any of the wires feel brittle or stiff, replace them.

[tuckers89GW]

well, If it turns out to having to replace the distributor, NAPA carries them for $50 plus core charge.
You are sure that it is not Vapor Lock? After it sits for awhile, will it start? Just throwing out alternatives.

[shadowfax101]

I am sure it is not vapor lock. I have been fighting that battle as well. This has got somehting to do with bad timing along with a weak spark. I am going to rewire to coil this afternoon to see if I can get 12 volts to it instead of 11.14. I am going to replace the ignition mod. and the distributor as well. If that does not get it I guess I will look at the coil it self and then the starter relay sicne it does send that wire to the coil. After that I have no idea. I guess it would have to be timing chain.

[tuckers89GW]

Well, I can understand your delema. My VW will run perfectly and after it has sat for a short time it sometimes will not fire. They are a whole different bread of animal though.

Are you sure you don't have a bad wire somewhere in the circuit. It could be causing a intermitent short. But it sounds like it could be the pickup coil.