Uggggh..Overheating and back fire Help!

[FunnyGirl]

Ok my 89 wagoneer stock v8 360 5.9 is now overheating I previously had carb issues and it took me forever to get her through emissions. So here is the deal I was driving her around and she sputtered a bit like she wasn't getting gas then she overheated I got her home let her cool down and then she wouldn't start . No gas going to the carb so replaced the fuel pump 2nd one in a year. She started after backfiring. There goes the new power valve ?? right , anyways she starts now and runs but after driving a bit 30 minutes or so she starts to overheat again , can NOT take her on the highway or it is right away into the red zone. Now this is what I have done. I did a flush, added water wetter, and put in a new thermostat 160 degree one . I also replaced the radiator cap , and lower hose ( put one with a spring since I heard talk of collapsing hoses) . The fan runs great , yes it has the shroud. Also the water pump seams fine no noise from it. I am at a loss here , I was thinking of having the radiator rodded out but I am not for sure wouldn't there be a cold spot if it was blocked? Is it the carb or is it something else. I live in AZ so it is HOT here and the goal is to make her my daily driver and road trip vehicle so I am working on her bit by bit but this is going to drive me crazy. Any help would be appreciated. where should I go next???


thanks ,
Maggie

[gwinn]

Is your radiator a 3 or 4 row? When you were trying to get through emissions did you make any adjustments to make the fuel mixture extra lean? Does your GW have any suspension or body lift modifications? Do you know how to test the fan clutch?

I am not a mechanic, but have dealt with my own vehicle overheating problems here in Phoenix. You would have a lot more technical help if you asked this question on the General Technical Forum. Good luck!

[FSJunkie]

If it's overheating on the highway odds are the fan clutch is fine, but they are fairly cheap and easy to replace. Like gwinn said, it sounds like it's running really lean. While replacing the fuel pump or while messing around with things to pass emissions, a chunk of crap might have plugged a passage in the carburetor.

[azwagoneer80]

If the radiator isn't plugged, or too small (1 or 2 row) I'd also check the timing as well. My waggy will overheat if the timing is too far retarted, especially in the summer.

[Ghost Town Hunter]

Make sure your water level is full then pop the radiator cap (when cool). Start the truck and check for flow through the radiator and also for air bubbles. If there is a good ammount of bubbles, chances are a head gasket is blown (leaking exhaust gasses into the cooling system). Good luck!

[will e]

Interesting.

So it heats up on the highway almost immediatly?
What about sitting in the driveway at idle, how fast does it overheat?
When it shows hot on the guage, what other symptoms do you see? Is it blowing water out the radiator cap for example?

[Mr.Wagoneer]

Ok my 89 wagoneer stock v8 360 5.9 is now overheating I previously had carb issues and it took me forever to get her through emissions. So here is the deal I was driving her around and she sputtered a bit like she wasn't getting gas then she overheated I got her home let her cool down and then she wouldn't start . No gas going to the carb so replaced the fuel pump 2nd one in a year. She started after backfiring. There goes the new power valve ?? right , anyways she starts now and runs but after driving a bit 30 minutes or so she starts to overheat again , can NOT take her on the highway or it is right away into the red zone. Now this is what I have done. I did a flush, added water wetter, and put in a new thermostat 160 degree one . I also replaced the radiator cap , and lower hose ( put one with a spring since I heard talk of collapsing hoses) . The fan runs great , yes it has the shroud. Also the water pump seams fine no noise from it. I am at a loss here , I was thinking of having the radiator rodded out but I am not for sure wouldn't there be a cold spot if it was blocked? Is it the carb or is it something else. I live in AZ so it is HOT here and the goal is to make her my daily driver and road trip vehicle so I am working on her bit by bit but this is going to drive me crazy. Any help would be appreciated. where should I go next???


thanks ,
Maggie

I’m over in surprise and I know how you feel about fuel pumps I’m on my 3rd one but I cant say I have over heating issue’s

As for the back firing replace your EGR valve seem’s to be the most common cause for backfiring if your timing is in good order

You said you bought a 160 thermostat but 190 degree thermostat is what’s recommended

As for cooling issues it’s not simple like the thermostat I would look at a blockage some where I would flush one more time again to be safe some people use Vinegar type solutions to break up hard water composites, If it’s not blockage it’s probably the Water pump High flow Water pumps are a good investment for any reason, but a leaned out carb could cause over heating but how was the temp reading before this over heating event?

[Wagonbeer]

My 68 Wagoneer 350 had overheating issues for years. At the same time, it was really hard to start. I tried all the cooler fixes, new 4 row rad, special cooler antifreeze additive, extra fans, etc= all failed. Tried many different timing settings - couldn't get both smooth idle and running smooth. I was also running around 280 degrees f !

Here is my solution: Take off the distributor cap and rotor. Underneath, you will find your centrifugal timing advance. Mine was rusted and therefore not advancing my timing at higher RPMs. I sprayed it with miracle juice (wd40) and worked the mechanism to free it up. Rebuild and PERFECT STARTING AND IT RUNS COOL!!! :drivin:

I wish someone told me that before I spent hundreds fixing non-problems!

[jaber]

My 68 Wagoneer 350 had overheating issues for years. At the same time, it was really hard to start. I tried all the cooler fixes, new 4 row rad, special cooler antifreeze additive, extra fans, etc= all failed. Tried many different timing settings - couldn't get both smooth idle and running smooth. I was also running around 280 degrees f !

Here is my solution: Take off the distributor cap and rotor. Underneath, you will find your centrifugal timing advance. Mine was rusted and therefore not advancing my timing at higher RPMs. I sprayed it with miracle juice (wd40) and worked the mechanism to free it up. Rebuild and PERFECT STARTING AND IT RUNS COOL!!! :drivin:

I wish someone told me that before I spent hundreds fixing non-problems!

Wagonbeer, welcome to the land of empty pockets and unfinished projects...:thumbsup: