OK..WELDING CHOICE NEEDS INPUT...

[Kenall]

HOBART HANDLER 135.

the book say it can weld 3/16 in single pass. i take it i cood weld thicker in multi passes?

this company solid for some time to come?

can this 110v machine weld shock tabs onto the axles or the frame?

cood i use it to build a spare tire rack?

is 3/16 metal robust enuff stuff for fab work?

:confused:

[ibnfe]

I've used my 80 amp to weld engine mounts in place no problem. You can stack the weld for thicker material, just make sure you remove the slag/flux to keep a clean and strong weld. Just takes a little practice. If you don't have experience welding cast, I would not do the shock tabs to axle thing. It won't have a problem welding to the frame though. I don't know what to consider when welding cast, but I do know that you can't just "buzz the bead and call it good". Especially when it comes to critical items, like spring perches and such. And yes, it should have no problem doing the spare tire rack.

[ August 09, 2001: Message edited by: ibnfe ]

[jeepbob]

I trust it is a wire feed welder? The gas wire welders are much easier to use and do a better job IMO than the flux core jobbies. This said, I am building a 60 coupe deville plow truck (dont' ask) for a guy with a flux core Hobart welder and it is working just fine. 3\16 should be heavy enough for shock tabs and axle tubes are not cast so it should work fine. The shop in my dreams has a Miller mig in it but that is only when I'm sleeping.

[64Trvlr]

I agree with you JeepBob, it should do just about everything he needs. Ken yes you can weld thicker material with several passes. You might want to pick up a good basic welding book and spend some time reading and then practice on some scrap plate for a little while. Have fun with your new welder.
:cool:

[fulmetal]

CAn't go wrong with the Hobart Handler, They are awesome machines as far as 110 mig machines go. If I had to buy a new one thats the one to get :D

[desert_freak]

I saw the Hobart on sale in the Harbor Freight flyer, I too thaought about it but I didn't get a chance to go check it out yet. I'm kind of surprised they say it will only do 3/16" single pass I thought the Lincoln 110V models "claim" to do 1/4". For a while I was torn between 110V and 220V (if I'm going to spend the money, might as well spend a little more to get something to meet my every need) but since I have a 220A arc I guess I don't have to worry about welding the BIGGER stuff.

Is the Hobart better than a Lincoln? I've heard good things about both, although parts for the Lincoln may be easier to aquire!

Thanks,

P.J.

[Sitting Bull]

Just as a side thought, most community colleges have a welding class that they teach in the evenings. It might be well worth the $100 or so in tuition to have someone teach you the techniques and tricks.

[wagdriver]

I'll have support sitting Bull if, welding class's are available in your area I would certainly take advantage of them. It is money well spent. It will keep you from making the common mistakes that produce poor weld quality.
When you are welding ask you self one question "would you trust your life to this weld?" if you cannot answer with a resounding yes then you should not be making that weld.
You can weld thicker material with more than one pass, that is one of the things you will learn in such a school. 64Trvlr's advice is sound, a good book will always be there for referance, welding is a mater of good technique, and practice.
I am 60 years old and I am still learning when it comes to welding. ;)

[Kenall]

thanks for the input.

i have taken the classes at the local CC in stick welding..not MIG..im gonna take that portion in the fall. but i guess ill get the welder now..its 419$, shipping included...

iv been using rented stick welders for my fab stuff, but they are 90$/day :(

the 220v arc machines are bulkier and might overcome the elec dryer circuit i was opting to use..the wiring is only 40yrs old ;)...the 115V 20A outlets are nu tho and the hobart is small and ezly stored in the shed. dont have to make a trolley for it.

i dont want to use the flux core and will get the Co2 shielding for true mig operation.

ur thots?

[Stangerize]

Hobart has been around for a while. I used them when I worked at American Air Filter in 1990.

Alot of the mistakes first timers make is that they don't want to burn a hole into what they are welding so they run the weld too fast. Take your time, take it slowly but not too slow. You may burn a few holes. But do it in practice and not while welding on something important like a frame or the axle housings. Try to stay away from welding on frames as much as you can. The heat from the weld will weaken the frame a bit.

If you have the oppurtunity, weld some plates together, cut them into 2" strips along the weld, or weld 2 - 2" pieces of metal together. Stick the 2" piece in a vise and bend it back and forth until the pieces break. If the weld breaks itself, keep practicing. The ultimate weld will have what appears to be a tiny weld bead on the opposite side of where you were welding. That's called penetration. You get that and you're weld will outlast the metal you welded. If the metal itself breaks near the weld, outstanding, you're on you're way and that would pass half of a welder's certification test.

With thicker metals, you'll want to leave a "root opening" so you can get proper penetration. "Root opening" is how far you gap the pieces that you are welding. You could weld up to 3/8" steel with that welder if you leave a root opening and bevel it enough. This would require multiple passes though. You want to gap it to approximately the thickness of the pieces you are welding together. A crude example of a beveled plate is below. You get the idea.
_______ _______
_______\ /_______

You wouldn't want the bottom edge to come down to a point, more of a blunt edge approx. 1/8" thick.

I'd say that would be a great welder for about anything you would want to build or repair.

Just practice and test your welds. That should make you comfortable to trust them.

I had to edit this post because my diagram didn't come out right. And I wanted to add, a good MIG weld sounds like bacon frying. You'll see what I mean. :D

[ August 10, 2001: Message edited by: Stangerize ]

[ibnfe]

OOPS, sorry about the bad info. I had my brain on the SOA thinking about where the one perch is on the housing. Thanks for the correction jeepbob! :D

[wagdriver]

I would definetly go with the gas, it is much easier to control and you can see what is happening all the time, if you can stick weld you will not have any trouble with the MIG. The flux core is ok for some things but you still have to deal with the clean up as you would with the stick. There is more of an opportunity to have inclusions with the flux core and stick for that matter and this can be a problem with multiple pass welding. The only thing to clean up after MIG is a little spater which is pretty easy to deal with.
For the most part it really doesn't matter who makes the machine Hobart, Miller, Lincoln, are the major players and they are all good. It's best to go with a local supplier which helps ensure parts availability. Theres not a lot to go wrong with a welding machine so parts are not normally a major problem. The one you choose is like choosing between Chrysler, Ford, or GM its a matter of personal preferance.
All who have replied here have put forth valuable information as to what you need to know about welding machines and techniques that are used to produce good welds. There are some very knoledgeable people on this board that is what makes it so great.
Good Luck! ;)

[Arborman]

I used the 110 gasless mig sold at Sears, it was $200. brand new and it worked FINE you just have to take your time and dop it right, multi passes sometimes, but it got the job done very well. I moved up to Lincoln 225 amp stick. I'm much happier with that. No more "bacon grease" spattering all over my arms! Oh it spatters some but not nearly as bad as that gasless 110! Heck I burned up two good work shirts, the cloth wheel on my bench grinder, and some hair with that thing!
Good Luck. ;)

[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

YEARS AGO............ WHEN THERE WAS ONLY OX AN ACEY TO WELD SHEET METAL....THERE WAS A SPOT WELDER OUT THERE MADE BY LINCO.. ....IT WORKED GOOD....YOU WOULD HOLD THE - IN ONE HAND AND THE + IN THE OTHER......... THEN YOU WOULD HOLD THEM TO WHAT YOU WERE SPOT WELDING, SAY A DOOR SKIN THAT YOU WERE REPLACING AND PULL THE TRIGGER AND YOU GOT TWO SPOT WELDS AT A TIME....YOU COULD GO AS FAST AS YOU COULD MOVE THE HANDLES...YOU NEEDED NO HOOD.... JUST TURN YOUR HEAD AND PULL THE TRIGGER.....BUT ONE THING!!!!! THE SHEET METAL, YOU WERE SPOTING, HAD TO BE FLUSH TO THE OTHER METAL OR YOU WOULD BLOW A HOLE IN IT...NO GAS NO WIRE ..220V...JUST TURN ON AND GO.... IN THE 70s I THINK THEY WERE ABOUT 600 TO 700 DOLLARS THEN... ....JUST TELLING YOU ONE OF THE MACHINES THAT YOU COULD WELD WITH AT THE TIME...GARY smile.gif :cool: