I think i really screwed it up this time...

[72wag]

ok, so here's the problem. my brother's working on his truck so i figure i'll tinker around with mine at the same time. i start taking things apart, like the distributor, and don't bother to mark position or anything and then put it back in and try to start the engine. big mistake. now, i know that i have to get the engine at tdc on the #1 cylinder. which i did. and set the distributor so that it was lined up with the #1 cylinder. ok, i hook everything up and try to start it, but it won't start. so, i take the #1 spark plug out and shine a flashlight in the hole. low and behold there is liquid, probably gas, in the cylinder. so i decide i'll leave the plug out overnight to let it evaporate and try again. no luck the next time or the time after that. does anyone have any suggestions? if, for some reason i broke the rotor, would you suggest doing that Ford 460 rotor swap? or getting an aftermarket one? i'd much rather just be able to fix it without dropping a lot of coin, but if i have to i will!! thanks a lot!!

-cameron

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72Wag
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Cameron
1972 Wagoneer
360/2bbl/th400/d20/
31x10.5/15 Pro Comp MT's on AE 589's
Hurculined interior
One working window!!!

[RudyC]

He He no biggy you just may have set it a the wrong TDC. Every other revolution is when the cylinder fires. You may just have set it at the Exaust stroke. To be sure I pull the drivers side valve cover and crack it to TDC on the pulley. The #1 cylinder will have BOTH valves closed on the compression stroke and one (Exaust) will still be open. Yo want it at the compression stroke. You also want the rotor pointing at the #1 terminal and the Ign. trigger should be lighned up right at the pick up. The timing will need to be set but it should start now.

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GO LAKERS!!!!!!!!!

[porkchop]

Did you hook everything up right? Also you can find top dead center by removing the #1 plug and then placing your finger over the hole and having some turn the ignition slowly in short burst. Once you feel your finger getting blowin out Stop! That is top dead center. Move the engine by the crank bolt if you need to adjust it a little. Works every time and a lot less work.

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'67 Wagoneer
"Red"
Porkchop's Pen (http://members.fortunecity.com/porkchopsredfsj)

Procrastination: hard work often pays off after time, but laziness always pays off now.

[jeepguzzi]

Can't you also look at the harmonic balancer to line up top dead center? I seem to remember a mark on mine.

[This message has been edited by jeepguzzi (edited June 08, 2001).]

[ironroad29]

yea but you have a 50/50 chance of hiting it on the commpresion stroke if you just go by
the mark....

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"If a jeep can't take you there, maybe you should think twice about going"

[Snakeyes_Tx]

This is what I do... it works on every distributed engine I've ever worked on... I never thought timing was so easy to do.

* Pull #1

* turn the crank with a 5/8 (maybe 3/4.. can't remember) socket on a 1/2" drive ratchet on the center bolt of the harmonic balancer/pulley until the timing mark on the harmonic lines up woth TDC on the timing cover.

* Put your finger over the hole (not IN the hole, OVER it) and have someone crank the motor little by little until your finger shoots out of the hole. What this does is it put the engine on at the conclusion of it's compression stroke, and is now at top dead center beginning of the exhaust stroke.

* Replace the plug into the hole

* Stab in your distributor, make sure you get the oil pump keyway lined up so the distributor sinks all the way in. You may have a *little* difficulty negotiating the fuel pump eccentric, but a few jiggles is all it should take.

* Note where the rotor is pointing. Mark the corresponding end of the cap #1.. scratch it on or something. That is now your #1 plug. Run your wires, in order.. just like a chevy 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 in a clockwise rotation on the cap.

* tighten the distributor down (I use a 9/16 6-point socket on a half inch drive wratchet with a 6 inch extension and a swivel.. it works very well and you don't have to pull things out of your way. Tighten it JUST enough to snug it, but where you can still twist the assembly to fine tune the timing.. 12 degrees before Top dead on stock 360's.

* Start the motor. Turn the cap forward little by little until the pings or misses smooth out. If the idle gets worse, turn the cap in the opposite direction. (DO THIS WITH THE VACCUUM ADVANCE HOSE OFF!)

* Once you get a smooth idle, do the "rev test" slowly pull the carb lever slowly revving the motor. Pull it back about halfway (a good slow pull to halfway should take about 6-8 seconds). Listen for backfires and misses. If your backfire is coming out of the exhaust, your timing is too advanced, pull it back, if it comes through the carb, its too retarded, pull it forward. Don't let the carb backfire too much or you can damage the power valve.

* Once you get smooth idle, and smooth rev's... shut off the motor and hook the vacuum advance back up and tighten the distributor down for good.

* Clean your hands and have a beer or whatever you do on a "job well done" ceremony! http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/biggrin.gif

Hope this helps


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http://www.virtue.nu/yazahx/rand/sig.jpg

Snakeyes_Tx
86 J-20 "The Rusty Dinosaur"
360/727/208/44HD/60 <- 2nd of all of them.
"If you don't know what the numbers mean, you don't need to be here!"

[This message has been edited by Snakeyes_Tx (edited June 08, 2001).]

[72wag]

hey guys, thanks for all the pointers. i'm going to go give it a try while there is still daylight and see if i can get it to work!!

-cameron

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72Wag
-------------------------
Cameron
1972 Wagoneer
360/2bbl/th400/d20/
31x10.5/15 Pro Comp MT's on AE 589's
Hurculined interior
One working window!!!

[jeepbob]

Putting your finger in the spark plug hole or even over the hole is not a good thing to do when cranking over an engine. For one thing it could get sucked into the hole and then crushed when the piston comes back up. Then there is always the danger of having gas literaly injected in to you finger by the compression pressures which could lead to an infection that could lead to blood poisoning or even amputation. Use your compression gauge. What? Don't have one? You can get them for $25 at Advance Auto. Much cheaper than the above.

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65 wag. 360/edelbrock rb4/t400/20 t-case/4:10 d27/d44 broken power lok/onboard air/onboard 110v power(no inverter)/1999 Lincoln t.c.leather buckets/Lincoln ctr console/winch/33x12.50/tunes/water proof door pads
soon to have new motor/d44frt/d60r(4:10)welded diff/custom bumpers
see ya in da mud

[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

OK!!!LET ME SEE!!WHAT IS HALF OF 360????..MARK?????...MARK THIS!!!!A REAL""MAN"" MARKS NOTHING...JUST PULL THAT THING OUT OF THERE!!!!!....AND SHOVE IT BACK IN....BE A MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HE..HE..

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[91GWag]

While you got it apart think about doing the TFI upgrade. You can scrounge a bone yard and get most of the parts cheap. I noticed an increase in drivability, economy and power.

Good luck

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Kevin Bellerose
91 GWag "Big Dog" or "Knuckle Buster"
360/727/229
TFI Upgrade
"The Woodless Wonder Wagon"
http://www.geocities.com/kevbpsych/91wagweb.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/kevbpsych/wag.html

kevsandi@noho.com

[BobBarry]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jeepbob:
Putting your finger in the spark plug hole or even over the hole is not a good thing to do when cranking over an engine.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Well, I guess we should mention that you don't JAM your finger into the hole, but rather hold it over the sparkplug hole as you crank it BY HAND. And don't hold it on so tight that you can't let the pressure escape.

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Bob Barry<UL TYPE=SQUARE>* '78 Cherokee 4-door
* '88 Grand Wagoneer[/list]http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/