To Lube or Not To Lube That Is The Question!

[desert_freak]

I need to repalce the u-joints on my drive shafts and I am wondering if there is any reason I should go with the perma lubed ones over greasable ones. How hard is it to get at the zert(sp?) fitting? Is even grease distribution a concern? It would seem like one that can be greased would be a better idea, but I am interested in the opinions of you guys that have had eperience with both.

Thanks,

Patrick


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The fun has just begun! Resurection began on 4/8/01.

[kyrel]

I use the ones that you can lube and they seem to last a little longer if you lube then

[scotty]

yeah,as long as your fix-it mice have little grease guns,the greasable ones are better http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/smile.gif

i have always used the greaseable ones,and lube em often.mud and water will work its way in there and contaminate the grease and the little sticks days are numbered from then on. if your rig its mostly(only) street driven,maybe the others are ok,but if ya like to play in the dirt,id definately say go with the greaseable ones.

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scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/t18/spicer 18 with pto/dana 44/welded amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

widetrac offset dana 44s with clearanced center sections and rear discs very soon
BIG tow truck PTO winch and full roll cage install shortly thereafter
4.0 aquired-4.5L stroker someday...

now we can do some 'wheelin!

[RudyC]

On mine I put Genuine Spicer U joints and they had the grease fittings on the end caps since some times it's impossible to get at the fittings that are on the body itself.
The non greasable ones are ok on cars that will never cross a river but on an off road truck, not a good idea.
Would you trust Kragen/P Boys generic non greasable U juoints http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/biggrin.gif ?
I had a full time Q trac and BAD things happen when the front shaft goes on those.

[David Simon]

I like the greasable ones. Down here most of my off-road adventures include mud and water, although this year we're having a drought. I like to put fresh grease through them afterwards to push out the dirt and water. Plan ahead when you install them to put the fitting on the end that's easiest to reach.
David


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98 Cherokee (wife's)
97 TJ with all the goodies
88 GW
NP229/TF727/D44s
TFI Upgrade
Free-flow cat, Flowmaster 70, 2 1/2" exhaust

[desert_freak]

Grease fitting on cap! That sounds like the ticket. It would sure make it easier to grease. I have not seen a joint like that before are the spicer ones the only ones that come like that?

How about prefered grease? Moly blend?

Patrick


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The fun has just begun! Resurection began on 4/8/01.

[jeepbob]

The drive shaft guru's say run the permenent greased ones as they are stronger and the seals will keep the water out better.
I run greasable ones and change them every year as cheap insurance. I keep the olds ones for spares on the trail. I have not need a spare since I went to a U bolt yoke on the rear end, but someone always needs one and if I did not have one it would be me.

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65 wag. 360/edelbrock rb4/t400/20 t-case/4:10 d27/d44 broken power lok/onboard air/onboard 110v power(no inverter)/1999 Lincoln t.c.leather buckets/Lincoln ctr console/winch/33x12.50/tunes/water proof door pads
soon to have new motor/d44frt/d60r(4:10)welded diff/custom bumpers
see ya in da mud

[RudyC]

No when the counter guy should ask what kind you want, fitting in the cap or the U joint body. They have both. If not go to a different store. I got my Spicers from a repair place that my FSJ was putting the owners kids through college http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/biggrin.gif He rebuilt the front shaft for me cuz the CV joint on it looked SCARY. I did the rear one my self though http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/biggrin.gif
If you want REALLT STRONG ones SUMMIT has chrome moly ones for about 20 bucks each with life time warranty.

JeepBob you are right but those are not the same brands that the discount parts places will carry. The sealed pep boys/Kragen units are crap. The ones you are talking about are more top quality brand that I don't know who carries other than drive shaft builders that have to warranty thier stuff.


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79 WAGONEER (SOLD IT, BUT WILL FIND A LESS RUSTY ONE LATER)
79 DODGE, MY LIL RED TRUCK. 318, 4BBL HOLLEY,TF727.
pictures at: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1500380&a=11321052

[This message has been edited by RudyC (edited May 11, 2001).]

[243]

Who's going to take responsibilty for a failed, "lubed for life" steering part?

Sure, the parts house will probably replace it with a new one but who's going to change it for you?

Those idiot "bean counters" at Daimler Chrysler thought it was a great idea to save a few bucks and put lubed for life balljoints and various other parts under the front of 3/4 and 1 ton Dodge 4x4's. I can't tell you how many people went back for new balljoints. I had to replace a tierod in March with 53K on my truck. Not a single parts house had the tierod for a 99 so I bought the "lubed for life" POS from the dealer. Three months later, it was bad.

Save yourself the headaches and just by high quality, greasable suspension parts.



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243

79 Wagoneer 401/T400/QT
76 Wagoneer (parts car)
99 Dodge Ram TD

cummins_isb@hotmail.com