Main Seal

[Dr Gonzo]

I have had some problems with leaks recently, and noticed that the biggest one is coming from the main seal. On a 1990 Wag, does anyone know it this is a two piece seal like the rear? And is there anyway of replacing it if you don't have access to a floor jack?

Thanks.

[64Trvlr]

Are you talking about the front main seal on the engine or transmission or????? http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/cool.gif

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http://www.mindspring.com/~tubefish/images/Traveler1sig.jpg


64 Traveler, 350/sm 465/
np 205/ d 44 ft and rear
w/4:88's,33.950's,Line-x interior

60 Willy Wag, Superhuricane6,T90,D18,
D 27 and 44, 4:88's

66 Wag,327,400,20,D27,D44
4:27's

[This message has been edited by 64Trvlr (edited June 14, 2001).]

[Dr Gonzo]

Sorry, on the engine.

[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

GEE!! DOC....I DON'T WANT TO SOUND LIKE A SMART Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogley...BUT IF YOU DON'T HAVE A FLOOR JACK!!!MAY BEE YOU SHOULD TAKE IT SOMEWERE...YOU WOULD NEED JACK STANDS TOO....DON'T WANT TO SEE YOU KILL YOURSELF...I LIKE TO SEE EVERYBODY DO THERE OWN WORK....BUT...GEE!!!!! YOU HAVE TO HAVE THE EQUIPMENT TO DO IT!!!!! *****GARY*****

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[Dr Gonzo]

I have the Haynes manual and from their descriptions, it looks as if you can take off the oil pan and access the rear main seal, which is in two pieces. You take out half and then the other half with some grabber type tool. Then replace in the same manner, one piece, then the other without having to take have the whole engine dismantled, lying in pieces on the garage floor.

I'm kinda hoping that the front main seal (engine) works in this way too. The Haynes manual makes no mention of how this can be done. I know that it would be a pain to do this from the bottom, but right now, I don't know of other options.

Thanks

[BobBarry]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Dr Gonzo:
I'm kinda hoping that the front main seal (engine) works in this way too. The Haynes manual makes no mention of how this can be done. I know that it would be a pain to do this from the bottom, but right now, I don't know of other options.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Do you mean the seal behind the balancer? If so, then you can access it by simply pulling the balancer on most later AMC motors; the earlier ones had a lip on front that required you to pull it from the inside of the timing cover.

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Bob Barry<UL TYPE=SQUARE>* '78 Cherokee 4-door
* '88 Grand Wagoneer[/list]http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/

[JeepFreak]

If it was me I would take and pull everything off the front of the motor and replace gaskets and seals for the timing cover as well. The front main sits in this cover anyways so why not do it all???

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JeepFreak

[64Trvlr]

If you're going that far be sure and check the chain and gears. http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/cool.gif

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http://www.mindspring.com/~tubefish/images/Traveler1sig.jpg


64 Traveler, 350/sm 465/
np 205/ d 44 ft and rear
w/4:88's,33.950's,Line-x interior

60 Willy Wag, Superhuricane6,T90,D18,
D 27 and 44, 4:88's

66 Wag,327,400,20,D27,D44
4:27's

[BobBarry]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JeepFreak:
If it was me I would take and pull everything off the front of the motor and replace gaskets and seals for the timing cover as well. The front main sits in this cover anyways so why not do it all???
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Well, if those gaskets aren't leaking, then that would be quite a bit of extra work for very little gain. Of course, if the timing-chain is worn, it would be worth it, but to pull the balancer is one bolt and the use of a puller; to get the cover off involves all accessory brackets, the water pump, the distributor, cleaning all mating surfaces, dealing with the inevitable broken bolt, etc, I'd recommend against it as a purely recreational pursuit... http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/wink.gif

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Bob Barry<UL TYPE=SQUARE>* '78 Cherokee 4-door
* '88 Grand Wagoneer[/list]http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/

[jeepbob]

Chances are that if the rig has enough wear on it to have a leaking front seal, the timing chain is wore too. While it is a lot of extra work, if the motor has more than 70,000 on it, this would be the time to do it. Yes, I know that some people have 150000 to 200000 miles on an original chain but they wear slowly enough that the loss of performance is not noticable.

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65 wag. 360/edelbrock rb4/t400/20 t-case/4:10 d27/d44 broken power lok/onboard air/onboard 110v power(no inverter)/1999 Lincoln t.c.leather buckets/Lincoln ctr console/winch/33x12.50/tunes/water proof door pads
soon to have new motor/d44frt/d60r(4:10)welded diff/custom bumpers
see ya in da mud