Tech-Installing rear discs on early Jeep Full Float D60

[Gambler68]

starting a thread for Tech Archives. I've searched all over the web and never seen a complete write up, so here we go.

The Victim: A 1972-74 narrow drum (staked) Jeep (which really is a dodge) Dana 60 8 lug Full Floater

The Supplies: Jeep D60 Rear Disc Kit from GubNI at NC4x4 forum, Pirate4x4 too I think. His is the least expensive kit, which includes 2 rotors (made in china, but look nicely machined), 2 rebuilt calipers, Brake Best pads, 2 brackets (decent machining but not perfect) bolts, 2 spacers, brakehoses. This application was 315 shipped, and they came very quickly via FedEx. So far, so good.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p150/cheech7474/Rear%20D60%20Disc%20install/IMAG0149.jpg

basic handtools, propane torch, Pb Blast, big block of wood.

The Attack:

First remove your axle shafts. Unbolt and slide out:
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p150/cheech7474/Rear%20D60%20Disc%20install/IMAG0033.jpg

I used a 4" cutoff wheel and removed the Drum portion. Very easy and made the rest easier to do.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p150/cheech7474/Rear%20D60%20Disc%20install/IMAG0152.jpg

Soak the lugs and the inner face of the hub to the plate with PB Blast. I heated up the area first with a blue bottle first. Place on thick but soft block of wood and start tapping, alternating sides. When the hub face separates from the backing plate, slide a wedge in there. It doesn't take long to separate them.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p150/cheech7474/Rear%20D60%20Disc%20install/IMAG0156.jpg

Here you go. I'll be buying new lugs. Repeat on the other side.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p150/cheech7474/Rear%20D60%20Disc%20install/IMAG0157.jpg

I'll be updating this as I go.

[scantar]

Shweet! :thumbsup:

[Gambler68]

Hubs do not clear bolt heads for bracket and spacer to axle flange. With the nuts on the inside of the axle flange, they in NO way come close to fitting flush with the flange, because of the tube. Will require either grinding out a notch for each nut on the flange/tube weld/seam, or slicing off a good thickness of one nut face. Not sure if the spacer is an optional item, will try without it (it's maybe 1/8th in. thick steel).

One side's grade 8 bolts need to be replaced due to thread damage from having to use the bolts to make the bracket suck on..holes were mis-aligned enough the make this rather un-fun.

[Gambler68]

Managed to get other side on barely easier with the spacer, and the bolt heads on the hub side. Hub *almost* clears the bolt heads with the spacer on. Haven't tried with spacer off. Nuts would still requre shaving, or will have to notch into the flange neckdown a bit.

This would all be minor stuff if oh, I had a milling machine or a big drill press to address the minor layout problems, but for a joe with handtools.. :banghead:

I guess I'll have to put the discs on the shafts, re-install with the spacer on and grind some for the hub to seat, to see if the spacer is required for the calipers to line up with the disc, or if its there for the bolts to clear the hub or not.

The other possible idea would be to use the original bolts that held the backing plate on, but I don't think they are long enough...dunno, done for today. I know that much :)

[RTFM]

/Subscribed - as my 77 J-20 is getting the fronts and rears done in 2011.

Thanks for starting the thread.

[Gambler68]

Maybe it's different for later D60s, but this early one is being a beech. :cool:

[v10sport]

Managed to get other side on barely easier with the spacer, and the bolt heads on the hub side. Hub *almost* clears the bolt heads with the spacer on. Haven't tried with spacer off. Nuts would still requre shaving, or will have to notch into the flange neckdown a bit.

This would all be minor stuff if oh, I had a milling machine or a big drill press to address the minor layout problems, but for a joe with handtools.. :banghead:

I guess I'll have to put the discs on the shafts, re-install with the spacer on and grind some for the hub to seat, to see if the spacer is required for the calipers to line up with the disc, or if its there for the bolts to clear the hub or not.

The other possible idea would be to use the original bolts that held the backing plate on, but I don't think they are long enough...dunno, done for today. I know that much :) Did you buy the kit from gubi on Pirate? If so, your bracket holes are probably drilled wrong. Mine were, none of the holes lined up. Turns out, the guy who makes the brackets for him miss drilled the holes. After I received the correct brackets, it bolted right up. He also sent me the wrong hub seals.

[Elliott]

starting a thread for Tech Archives. I've searched all over the web and never seen a complete write up, so here we go.

The Victim: A 1972-74 narrow drum (staked) Jeep (which really is a chevy) Dana 60 8 lug Full Floater.

I certainly wouldn't give GM that much credit. Dana built axles for all the manufactures and the BOM code on your axle will be for a Jeep if it came from a Jeep. :thumbsup: Thanks for putting this together. :cool:

[Gambler68]

Did you buy the kit from gubi on Pirate? If so, your bracket holes are probably drilled wrong. Mine were, none of the holes lined up. Turns out, the guy who makes the brackets for him miss drilled the holes. After I received the correct brackets, it bolted right up. He also sent me the wrong hub seals.


Yup. Well that freaking sucks :mad: I actually did grow up in a machine shop..this stuff is off, but I can make it work, just have to wallow out some of these holes that are off. Oh well. Live and learn. I haven't checked the hub seals..they're cheap enough I don't mind if I have to replace.

[v10sport]

I couldnt get the seals locally. I had to order them. 37 bucks for both sides. Looks like you may have the correct ones. They use Ford brackets and redrill the 4 holes. Id PM him and let him know that your brackets are off. He needs to tighten his quality control on the brackets. When I got the correctly drilled brackets, I had to modify those so the caliper would bolt up. The left too much material in the ears of the bracket. Brakes work well now.

[Gambler68]

Well, that explains the 4 extra holes that definitely don't line up. None of that was mentioned. Thank you for sharing. :thumbsup:

Now..you didn't have any problems with the outside of the hub contacting with the bolt heads? Did you have grind anything for clearance (for the bolts). I will have to slice a face on each of the 4 mounting nuts, and bolt into them, then grind the bolt heads for the hub to fit in so the seal is firm against the spindle flange area it rides on. I don't want to grind either the hub or axle flange itself.

[v10sport]

My hub cleared the bolts

[Gambler68]

Cutting a face off the nut and forgoing a lockwasher seems to be the trick. Looks like the hub will clear. One hole needs redrilling. Enough room on the back to double nut em. Okay...

[Gambler68]

the bloody 4 hole spacer goes inbetween the bracket and the hub, doesn't it.

[KaiserMan]

I'd say return it. Sounds like it's all pretty messed up.

You see the write up J10MIke did on his dics? I don't recall him having issues.

I'd try for my money back and get the same kit he did.

[Gambler68]

I'd say return it. Sounds like it's all pretty messed up.

You see the write up J10MIke did on his dics? I don't recall him having issues.

I'd try for my money back and get the same kit he did.


I'm too pissed to deal with returning it. I can use the brake hardware for the front.

I did just realize that I'd been putting the spacer inbetween the flange and the bracket, where it must actually be a spacer for the hub to press against. But I'm not sure the calipers will line up even. I'm going to give it another look before making a final call on it.

I was very clear what I had when ordering, that's all I can say right now.

[v10sport]

Spacer goes on, then bracket.

[Gambler68]

Spacer goes on, then bracket.


not on mine :/ Did just try swapping to the outside, that would just raise the bolt heads out and into the hub. I had to grind the heads as it was so they didn't ride on the hub face.

Now, on yours, you have a 77 J20 rear..had the thick drums. Mine has/had narrow stake on drums (like..12x2 drums). I am thinking that's why the brackets on my year D60 FF have to be on the inside like these:

http://www.blackbirdscustomtrucks.com/index16.html (top of page)

What I'm (to say nicely) starting to get angry about is I was extremely clear on what I had, and was told the Chevy kit he sold would work as is. (for the round 4 hole flange 8 lug FF Dana 60 with stake drums).

Looking at the bracket, I'll have to cut an end off, narrow it about a 1/4" on the inside of the radius (through bolt holes like the Blackbird one), and bolt it on the back. Blackbird doesn't sell JUST their brackets, gotta get the drums with it, and it's 295 without calipers and pads, just the hardware, discs, and brackets.

So I don't know right now..glad I bought the kids presents before I got this. :banghead:

here's pics of the various ways I attempted it..the one with the caliper on is apparently the correct way..for a later D60, not mine.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p150/cheech7474/Rear%20D60%20Disc%20install/100_6632-1.jpg
pic above, is without spacer. Hub seats nice and clears bolts. Disc rides on the bracket and no room for pad, and the rather obviuos huge gap. Caliper bolt (top one) would not thread into the bracket, the supplied threaded hole was too small.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p150/cheech7474/Rear%20D60%20Disc%20install/100_6631.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p150/cheech7474/Rear%20D60%20Disc%20install/100_6629.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p150/cheech7474/Rear%20D60%20Disc%20install/100_6628-1.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p150/cheech7474/Rear%20D60%20Disc%20install/100_6632.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p150/cheech7474/Rear%20D60%20Disc%20install/100_6630.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p150/cheech7474/Rear%20D60%20Disc%20install/100_6628.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p150/cheech7474/Rear%20D60%20Disc%20install/100_6627.jpg

[Gambler68]

caliper bolt is buggered, prolly my fault. Oh, and all this is disregarding the bolt holes that are off enough the 3rd and 4th bolt dont come close to going in..but I'm pretty much at 100% certain these brackets don't work this way. Any comments, ideas, whatever are welcome. I haven't contacted the vendor yet till I know I'm right. I'm just coming to the assumption that I'm the first guy putting on discs on an early narrow drum D60 that ordered this kit, and finding it wont work as is.

[v10sport]

PM gubi. You're having all the same issues I had with the jacked up brackets. Dude probably cut them wrong along with the miss drilled holes.
My 60 wasnt staked, but had narrow drums on it. My hub does look different than yours. Regardless of the year, the flange is the same. The bracket is drilled wrong. Compare it to the bolt holes on the backing. You'll see the difference

[Gambler68]

I could try that, can't see what he can do if the brackets have to be attached to the back though. Hole alignment or not, there's no way they'll work on the outside. Maybe my hubs and spindles are shorter than later ones, I dunno.

[KaiserMan]

Wait, do you have the 4 bolt flange D60? The 7 bolt (74+) is the same flange as a Chevy D60 rear, the 68-73 is not. It's the more common Ford/Dodge style.

Don't those attach from the back?

[Gambler68]

Wait, do you have the 4 bolt flange D60? The 7 bolt (74+) is the same flange as a Chevy D60 rear, the 68-73 is not. It's the more common Ford/Dodge style.

Don't those attach from the back?

Winner winner chicken dinner. I made this aware to the vendor. These are what I got, and they aren't set up for that in any way shape or form. He knew it was a 4 hole, apparently didn't know they only go on the back.

[KaiserMan]

I thought you had the 7 bolt flange since you where calling it a Chevy rear. I thought the 4 bolt brackets went behind the flange like on 14b's.

Of course you can't try that without cutting the bracket, making it impossible to return.

[Gambler68]

I thought you had the 7 bolt flange since you where calling it a Chevy rear. I thought the 4 bolt brackets went behind the flange like on 14b's.

Of course you can't try that without cutting the bracket, making it impossible to return.

I know. Regardless I'm eating this...not going to ship a 71lb package back, already painted and hammered and drilled on the brackets..and I can use the brake parts worst case on the front...but I'm screwed because I really need to get wheels on this, and this was my window of oppurtunity money and weather wise to do it. Now I..just gotta figure something out. Prolly try cutting one and seeing if it'll work behind the flange, slot the holes, trim it somehow, and have it welded after.

From what I've seen scouring the web, only Blackbird sells the 'correct' ones set up for this axle.

[KaiserMan]

Can't go wrong welding it. Then you'll have it right where you want it, and can clock the calpiers better.

[Gambler68]

Looks like I can use the spacer plates to cut first and get a template to trim the opening in the brackets. Since they're 1/4" steel, I think I'll have to find someone with a milling machine to cut them. Don't think the sawzall or 4" makita is going to swing it this time..

[Gambler68]

Ok, took some measurements off 3 D60 rears while up at Flints today:
Dodge D60 about 6" from axle tube flange to outside of hub
Early style matching mine exactly": about 6.5
Later J20 FF D60 (late 70s+) about 9" with a cap over it. So at Least 8 inches from flange to outside of hub


SO....that explains why this bracket doesn't work on the outside of the hub flange. Moving it to the rear should work..at worst calipers will need minor spacing out. I am going to cut and trim mine and go from there. I'll inform the vendor he was mistaken about early year D60s on Full Size Jeeps so he can sell his kits appropiately and hopefully no else has to learn this the hard way.

Will update as I go.

Anyone have a milling machine and a free half hour? :o I'll mail em with return postage.

[Jeep madness]

Dude, I just did this conversion on a 72 D60 in my truck! You need to call Shawn Aka gunbi and have him send you a set of early Dodge brackets! The bracket will go over the axle tube and bolt on the back of the flange. Your caliper will line up proper. BUT!!!, You will need to re drill the bolt holes on your axle flange. Re drilling the holes to clock the caliper lower, so you can get your upper caliper pin in and out. Mine works great, I just went through the same thing. Hope this helps.

[Jeep madness]

One more thing, I had to order wheel bearing seals for a 69- 76 Dodge 3/4 ton. The seals in your kit will be wrong. I used Dorman lug studs # 610-180 They are 9/16 though. I called Shawn and he sent two other sets of brackets. I used what I needed and sent the rest back. He even refunded me $47.00 cause I had to buy different seals!

[Gambler68]

Thank you so much, I shall do that then. You just hopefully saved me a lot of hassle, bro. Appreciated!!

[Jeep madness]

Keep us posted, let me know if you have questions. They are working on this kit, but 71 - 73 Jeep Dana 60 axles have a bastard brake set up cause the frame is wide putting the spring pads out were the brakes should be. Hang in there.

[Gambler68]

Cool, I sent him what you said (since it'll be fresh in his mind) and a pic of how it sits, and will wait and see how it turns out. :thumbsup: Thanks man.

[Gambler68]

I'm not thrilled about touching that flange, but at this point gotta gitterdun. If you could snap a pic of how yours turned out, that'd be awesome. Thanks for posting up.

[Jeep madness]

I will get a picture in the next day or two. I would get a 1/2'' center punch and use you bracket as a template to drill the holes. If you do not re drill you will not get the caliper pin out unless it not in a 71-73 J truck. Then the spring is back far enough to get the pins in. When you call tell him my name, Billy Murdock with the Jeep truck just to help him remember. They are very nice, and easy to work with.

[Gambler68]

Thanks! I'll try that...I have them clocked way back now which isn't optimal but isn't bad. I have stock springs in stock location. Hope it works out, fingers crossed.

[Austin 4x4]

hey man i feel your pain, i just spent all day installing rear discs on my camaro. my kit uses ford thunderbird calipers (ford parts, i should have know it wasn't going to go well). well the way the kit works the bleeder screw points down. so to make it possible to bleed they put a bleeder screw in the banjo bolt. and no supprise i couldn't get them to bleed. so after spending way to mutch time messing with it i decided to switch everything around, right side on the left and left on the right. this way the bleeder screw was pointing up. i could do this because i have a four link and not the stagerd shocks. shure enough problem solved. anyway i guess we get to learn that nothing is a "bolt on" kit. so sorry for the hyjack/rant, hope you get everything working right.

[Gambler68]

Nope, trust me, I understand. Staying calm, trying to figure it out, then asking for help never hurts if you can do it. :thumbsup:

[fulsizjeep]

Cool, I hope this is good news on the Dodge brackets.

[Gambler68]

Vendor and I are working this out right now.

[Jeep madness]

Heres a few pictures. It will work out fine, your on the right track now.

[Wagn Man]

Would love to do this to mine one day.

[Jeep madness]

I just wanted to point out that I clearanced my calipers so I could run 15'' rims. That is why the caliper and rotor look so big, they fill up the inside of the 15'' rim. I also put Caddy e-brake calipers, and that is why there are levers on the back. I still need to hook the e-brake up.

[Gambler68]

Awesome! I'm running 16.5 so maybe I'll get lucky and have them higher. Thank you for the pics! He's checking with his guy, but looks like I'll be getting the right seals and the dodge style brackets sent out to me...and this thread can end with a happy ending.

[fulsizjeep]

Awesome! I'm running 16.5 so maybe I'll get lucky and have them higher. Thank you for the pics! He's checking with his guy, but looks like I'll be getting the right seals and the dodge style brackets sent out to me...and this thread can end with a happy ending.'tis always good to have happy ending ;)

[Gambler68]

'tis always good to have happy ending ;)

Hey, let's not jump the gun yet :P Only halfway there! :D

[Gambler68]

Waited patiently for another box to come..came today with new set of hardware, oil seals, and brackets.

Not sure on the oil seals though...I sent him the correct part number National 415003 with links where to get it, he sent me National 415458. The 458's are noticably thinner. So..asking why.

Haven't cross referenced the part number yet to application, but will in a bit, or if someone is bored... :o
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z94/Ouray07/tech/IMAG0179.jpg
:huh:

[Gambler68]

the 458 is noticeably thinner than the thick 003.

There is a noticeable difference- the OEM 003 has a metal backing at the oil lip seal, the other one is open rubber.

==================================

okay found both on Rockauto:
003: Nitrile Seal, Shaft Size=2.625", Housing Bore=3.623, Outer Diameter=3.628, Width=0.468in
458: Nitrile Seal, Shaft Size=2.625", Housing Bore=3.623, Outer Diameter=3.628, Width=0.375in

so the only difference is in the width. Should I just order the ones I need and say screw it at this point? Does the width matter?

I of course, sent the vendor this new predicament with the info above. Maybe his supplier screwed up, I dunno. I'm a patient dude. Really..I am.

[Ristow]

i'd take the thicker one with the metal backing.

I'm a patient dude. Really..I am.

it's true,i have parts here for him from months ago unsent,he hasn't even had the traditional ifsja style "RISTOW SUCKS" drama explosion thread or nuthin.

[Gambler68]

i'd take the thicker one with the metal backing.



it's true,i have parts here for him from months ago unsent,he hasn't even had the traditional ifsja style "RISTOW SUCKS" drama explosion thread or nuthin.

Oh, just wait till I get workin the front axle :P I'm going to send a Strip-O-Gram girl wearing nothing but Little Debbie Snack cakes to your door.....and I ain't requesting the cute one this time...

Yeah, I want the correct seal for it. If I have to order them myself for 19 dollars for the pair I will, but offering to send the 2 sets now I have of wrong ones so he can get a refund and send me the right ones, hopefully.

Just always *my* luck things get messed up, I guess :rolleyes:

[Ristow]

and it'll take even more little debbies to cover up the corn-fed girl. i'm kinda excited now......

[Gambler68]

that was my thought exactly :P

[Ristow]

LOL!


hey,come do my D44 on my GW next. the caliper will help keep my wheels under me. maybe i should lay off the little debbies...may have overloaded the axle bearing. it was the drivers side y'know.:o

[Gambler68]

LOL!


hey,come do my D44 on my GW next. the caliper will help keep my wheels under me. maybe i should lay off the little debbies...may have overloaded the axle bearing. it was the drivers side y'know.:o

hmmm good point. No, my D44 is getting a high steer drag link and tie rod and tre kit. You need Flint to come fix your rear end, he's got practice at it ;)

[fulsizjeep]

You need Flint to come fix your rear end, he's got practice at it ;)<sigh> Experience tells me it is much easier to put new bearings and seals in them if the backing plate isn't ground to scrap. :banghead: Hmmm, mine was a lefty too. <moon pie weakness>

[Gambler68]

I blame the gas tank...that's why I keep mine on empty all the time :P

[Gambler68]

Vendors reply was that they are an updated design, and perhaps the thinner seal will be less leak prone. I dunno. When it warms up I'll try em out, or drop 20 clams and order the OEM ones if they don't work..seals on the FF D60 are stupidly easy to change, so it's not a huge issue.

Now time to get some studs and get on with this swap! :thumbsup:

[Jeep madness]

I went to Napa and they crossed the original National seal # to Napa part# 26238. $21.49 Each. Worked great.

[Gambler68]

I went to Napa and they crossed the original National seal # to Napa part# 26238. $21.49 Each. Worked great.

Mine came with National 003's installed: $9.72 cents each. The other ones sent are 7.50 or so each..from Rockauto.

ah I see yours..the difference is yours has the dirt lip that the 003's have, and the new ones do not.
Wheel Seal I.D. : 2.625"
Wheel Seal O.D. : 3.628"
Wheel Seal Width : .375"

looks like yours are the thin ones too. Well..I'll use the ones sent and get the right ones next time I think about it. I think you overpaid though going through napa..

[Jeep madness]

Napa is the only place around here that could cross the #s for me. $47 was cheaper then driving to next town and taking all day to find new seals. Gas and time cost more then $20. And yes me rear hurt a lot when I walked out of the Napa store. But gunbi refunded me for the seals.


Now get on with the project!!!!:D

[Gambler68]

I hear ya. Well, go figure, all the beautiful warm weather we've been having while waiting around for this is ended today with cold Colorado snow :rolleyes: But yes, onward! :thumbsup:

[Jeep madness]

One more little tidbit of info. When you bolt the brackets to the back of the flange, it will cause to bracket to flex, stopping the caliper from going all the way in to the mounting holes. I ground some on the axle side of the bracket, then fine tuned the clearance on the caliper side after all was bolted up tight. The brackets are cut to a tight tolerance. Another little heads up for you.:thumbsup:

[fulsizjeep]

I think you overpaid though going through napa..I dunno bro, that is just funny as great googley moogley to me! IMO, it depends on the store ownership and quality of service. :p

[Gambler68]

One more little tidbit of info. When you bolt the brackets to the back of the flange, it will cause to bracket to flex, stopping the caliper from going all the way in to the mounting holes. I ground some on the axle side of the bracket, then fine tuned the clearance on the caliper side after all was bolted up tight. The brackets are cut to a tight tolerance. Another little heads up for you.:thumbsup:


Hmmm...thank you. One more fun thing to expect. :cool:

[Gambler68]

I dunno bro, that is just funny as great googley moogley to me! IMO, it depends on the store ownership and quality of service. :p

Fancy a trip to Montrose? :p

[Gambler68]

http://sundbergassociates.com/newscorp/images/futurama_prof.jpg

Finally got a few hours to myself in the sun. The Dodge D60 brackets from this vendor actually do fit with some liberal grinding on the ID portion, mostly towards the outer ears. Hung the caliper at about 4 o'clock, may redrill and get them to about 3 o'clock..someday. I know bleeding will suck at the lower height but I'll probably just get a auto-bleeder kit anyways. Hung the hub on there and everything lines up nicely.

[Jeep madness]

I had a hard time with Distributor gears, but I'm up and running again. I have added hydro boost too now. It stops real good now with little effort on the pedal.

Next is swapping out the front diff for one with open knuckles and disc brakes.

[Gambler68]

Glad to hear it!!

Bought 3 new lug bolts and nuts today to see (if they'd fit). Staked the disc to the hub (easy with an aluminum drift and a 2lb machinists hammer) and looks good..waiting on tax $$ to complete it. It was 15.97 for 3 lugs/nuts, so 13 more to go.. :rolleyes:

also ordered up some spindle nuts from autoparts.com ...hope it's legit. 2 dorman sets were under 18 shipped, which is a lot cheaper than the store down the road that stocks dorman.

edit: Autoparts.com canceled the order saying the part was no longer available. seems like Dorman changed the application number since I looked it up on another site..oh well, their loss for not updating their software. Got it from Rockauto instead .

[Gambler68]

Been going through heck trying to find the right size spindle nuts. What is shown for a FF D60 in 1971 fsj trucks is way too small.

The outer diameter of my nuts is 2.5", inner is 1 7/8ths. Can't tell the thread count, but it's certainly wider than what rockauto sent me.

http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/hardware2006/302-307_Sec11_Part3.pdf

What I *think* I need now is 615-122 and 123...but it'll cost me 68 to my door to find that out. I think I'm just going to clean up the old nuts and order a 2.5" socket tool and bite the 30 bux I spent on smaller sets :/

[Gambler68]

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-8DSD.pdf

That covers ALL rear and front dana's. FF, Semi, everything, with diagrams.

Got one side rebuilt, waiting on 7 more lugs for the other side, and need to grind out the brackets some for the calipers.

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z94/Ouray07/tech/100_6852.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z94/Ouray07/tech/100_6853.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z94/Ouray07/tech/100_6854.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z94/Ouray07/tech/100_6855.jpg

looks good so far...yeah I know I should redrill and rotated them up some, but this will do for now.

[Gambler68]

Currently putting together the other hub. Noticed on install that the inner bearing seems to have 1/4" play in and out, don't recall this on the other side that I have installed above. Bearings looks new and the races are fine..need to pull the other side and see. The seal is fully seated and not missing any parts, must be normal..

battling wonderful Colorado spring storms, but it's coming together nicely!

[Gambler68]

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z94/Ouray07/IMAG0004.jpg

All came together nicely.

Had to grind out the brackets a bit for the calipers to mount. I left them clocked down...doesn't matter to me at this point as long as I can get them bled.

used long 14mmx1.5 studs, musta cost me $60 in studs and nuts to do the rear..closer to 70 actually. They don't match the front. Another thing I don't really care about, will just carry extras.

Installed the hubs by spinning it slowly and pre-loading the bearings to 50lbs. Then backed off to handtight, put in the lock washer, and tightened the outers to 150lbs. Hubs still spun ok but with resistance..I did pack the bearings pretty well with wheel hub grease so that's likely why. Hope they're ok..

16.5 rockcrawler Dwindow rims clear the calipers easy.

So just brakelines left to do...and installing pads (don't want to let it sit for another month or however long it will with pads on it).

If anyone goes with the kit from Gubnhi, and has a narrow drum FF D60 from around 1971, order the DODGE kit and tell him its for an EARLY J-truck, NOT a J20 d60. You will need the smaller axle seals as well, he has the right part numbers for our setups now.

I'll update this when everything is plumbed up and see what goes...I want to get a Disc/Disc MC for it but not sure what fits at this point..we'll see how the 78 MC stops it that I have cobbled in there now. I don't expect anything stellar, did this swap more to avoid paying high $$ for unavailable drums and parts for this oddball old axle.