2 Q's about installing a lift.

[norville]

Well folks,

I got my lift 3"RC $225 + free ship I couldn't resist. I'm itching to put it on.

1: Now, can I do this with hand tools or should I wait for a torch and air tools?

B: I'm pretty resourcefull, do I need help with installing front springs and rear blocks? Should I wait for a buddy?

7: About how long to intall just the lift?

thanks
norville

[FSJ Thing]

make sure you got about six hours, that's what it takes the average shadetree mechanic. All you should need is just a couple of wrenches, a breaker bar, and some monkey pi$$(rust buster, liquid wrench, etc..). If you don't already have new U-bolts for the front, get some. Chances are you'll mess em up taking the old ones off. If's pretty simple. Follow the instructions and you should be set. Also have a buddy standing by to call an ambulance in case your truck comes off the jackstands while you're under it.

[River Beast]

6 hours.... hmmmm.... with good luck on all the bolts... sure.....

Common hand tools is all that it should take... soak all the nuts/bolts good for a few days prior to starting.... it helps alot!

you will need at least 4 jackstands and a floorjack to be safe about it.

Not trying to rain on the 6 hour jobber, but it took 3 of us (all vey mechanically inclined) 15 hours when I did my Skyjacker lift in 98.... a few bolts took 2 hours each.... the rest was a cake-walk.

[MIDLERTH]

Took me a weekend by myself. But most of the hard part of mine was getting the rear springs in place. sounds like youve got blocks instead should be easier. The front springs were the easiest part on mine.

[FSJ Thing]

Wow RB! I thought I was being generous with a 6 hr estimate! I'm not bragging or anything.It took me about an hour to get my Wag on the stands because I didn't have a Hilift jack, so I'd jack one side 4" and move the stand up, next corner, then the next till the tires where barely touching. about 1/2 hour for the spring bolts to come out on all four corners(Yep, soaked em over night with a rag soaked in coke rapped around it(yep, no joke). Didn't soak the U-bolts cause I wanted them to break, and did so fairly easily with a boxend wrench with the open end cut off and a 2 foot pipe used as a breaker bar which took about 2 hours combined with beer drinkin. Norville shouldn't have to disconnect the brake lines or steering stuff, so that should save him a ton of time. Also he don't have to remove the rear springs, he just has to break the U-bolts on it and stick some blocks between them and the axle. That should save some time too. Of course, I've seen it take longer, but I bet he can do it in 6hrs...drinkin beer. :D

[River Beast]

Like I said.... if you are lucky and no problems.... he'll have it made.... he has blocks... no need to remove the rear springs.... I had to and that was where the problems kicked in... I had the front DONE in 3 hours.... the rest was the rear.... the springs don't just 'hook up' like you would think.... we learned... hehehe.... boy did we learn...

[FSJ Thing]

Yeah, I didn't follow your instructions on the rear like I shoulda. I left the axle on the springs and dropped the whole shebang. My rear brake lines go through the frame, and when I dropped the axle and started lifting the rear so I could put the new mounts on, I kinda broke both rear brake lines. All in all I think I was pretty lucky, it went pretty smooth. I took a break after the front too because I managed to smack myself pretty good in the nogin with my "special wrench" breakin the U-bolts, probably a byproduct of the beer drinkin, so I guess my total time, start to finish was closer to 36 hrs, but I didn't count the break. I bet norville can do it in 6 if he don't knock himself out cold while his friends and dog laugh at him.

[jeepguzzi]

I think I took about 7 months. I also had a bit of trouble with the rear bolts. I did a few extras while I was at it. Like install a new gas tank, derust , treat, and paint the frame, repair the rusted floors with new steel, put in new carpet, extend the sway bar link in front, install a new steering box and pitman arm and put on new brake lines.

[norville]

thanks for input folks. I'll try to be patient and wait for my cheby buddy to give a hand. He's got the air tools and torch. I've already had the front sprring bolts off/loose. And the u-bolts will get the axe(gas-axe that is). Believe it or not this rig only had 80k and all the bolts look clean musta been garaged. It's killing me not to put this on!

thanks
norv

[norville]

Hey readin the directions it says "Important note: If you are installing a 3" 74-90 fullsize Jeep lift, front springs will install opposite of stock springs as far as end to end." Huh?????

I realize the first prob is reading direction but what does this mean???

norv

[Fingers]

There is one special tool that you will need if you are replacing the pitman arm, you will need a pitman arm puller. you should be able to rent one at a parts store, but other than that you should be fine with hand tools. Oh yeah it took me and my friend about 8 hours to do mine and that was when I was 16.

[Big Blue J-10]

Hey norville,What you posted about the directions got me thinking about mine,I installed the new 4 inch springs from trail master the same way that the stock ones were.I read the directions and never came acrossed anything like that.If anyone else out there has a 4inch lift from Trailmaster on there ride let me know if Idid this wrong.
Adam

[River Beast]

Originally posted by norville:
Hey readin the directions it says "Important note: If you are installing a 3" 74-90 fullsize Jeep lift, front springs will install opposite of stock springs as far as end to end." Huh?????

I realize the first prob is reading direction but what does this mean???

norvAll I know is the longer side of the spring (using the centerpin as a guide) goes to the shackle side....

You are the first person that has brought this to light.. anybody else remember seeing this? I don't have this lift, but this concerns me!!!

[Bridge]

I am about to install new ESPOs with 2" lift. I had a mechanic tell be he could do it for $40...it would take ONE HOUR or so. I asked him to rethink his offer and get back to me.

Even if he has the luxury of a commercial HIGH LIFT, won't he still need to support the axle in the rear?

[will e]

I did the rear in one day, the front the next. 4 jack stands and two floor jacks. I was working solo. I am overly cautious about working under a lifted truck and around axles that are not attached to the vehical. (You should have seen my friends fathers finger after he dropped a Ford third member on it). :eek:

Certainly a lift would have made it easier. You would need a couple of support lifts for it too.

[Bridge]

I am having a little trouble visualizing this "dismembered" axle. The only thing left attached would be the shocks, I guess.

Also, it would seem easier to get to the Ubolts if I took the tires off. But, that would leave a long drop for the axle since the tires are not there to support it

[norville]

According to RC tech guy. The long side is to the front or the big bushings/small bushings are reversed from stock.

norv

[MountainJeep]

I bet norville can do it in 6 if he don't knock himself out cold while his friends and dog laugh at him.
too funny tongue.gif

[billyrb]

With a lift kit installation, you'll still have the driveshaft installed, and the brakeline (remember to disconnect it, otherwise you'll ruin it). Remove the tires, and be prepared to spend some time working on the rear shackle bolts....they like to stick. You need to know, though, that with the driveshaft and a jack being the only things holding the axle in place, it'll move forward some, so plan on gently easing it back into place. Also, FYI, make sure you have the jack low to the ground, so that if it teeter/totters from side to side, and decides to fall off the jack, it doesn't have far to go. Other than that, it should be an easy install.

[Damage, Inc.]

I hate it when my dog laughs at me...