2150 choke problem?

[leila]

Hi all,
I just had my 88 GW tuned up. She had been stalling out and smoking like crazy on my husband for about a week so I took her in. I had the timing set, the carb adjusted plus the AIR pump reinstalled (she needed an inspection, too.) Anywhoos, now she stalls almost immediately the first couple of times you try to start her. (no more smoke.) Once you do get her started she seems fine until she starts to idle low and then stalls. She starts back up and the same thing happens. When you drive her she stalls out at the next few stop signs/lights until she is fully warmed up (5-8 min.) Even then, she idles pretty low (to the point where I can see my voltage going down.) What is the deal? I had the carb rebuilt about 5 months ago and the compression was checked last week - all good readings. She runs like a champ when you are driving but she doesn't like to sit at intersections. I am stupmed. I checked the vacuum hoses and all appear (to me anyway) to be hooked up and fine. I am extremely frustrated. Any help is appreciated.

[ February 17, 2002: Message edited by: leila ]</p>

[Don S]

Hi Liela My '81 has a 2150-2 which is altitude compensated It's a good carb. :D It sounds like the fast idle adj. screw needs a bit of a clockwise turn. This screw sets on a cam thats hooked to a rod going up to the choke controller When the engine is hot my screw is loose, but so is the one on the carb. I think the tune up guy goofed. Take it back. It also could be the choke setting is to lean. Hope someone else jumps in to help...good luck...... smile.gif ...ds

[Kimbrough]

Hello Leila - haven't had a chance to welcome you to the boards!

Welcome!

Anyways, my '88 GW was doing the same as yours. I ended up re-doing ALL the vac lines (what a pain!!!!), rebuilding the carb and becoming very angry in general. It turned out to be a faulty idle solenoid. Get your shop to check for a faulty one on yours. Mine still starts rough when cold but runs great when warmed up. Good Luck!

[leila]

Thanks for the tips. I have a question...where/what is the idle solenoid? I can't find reference to it in my Hayne's manual.

[Kimbrough]

To be honest with you, I couldn't find it either. The shop I took it to did an "idle solenoid test" and found it didn't work. They replaced the electric choke cover (its a brown cap on the passenger side of the carb with a single wire attached at the bottom). My guess is the solenoid switch is in there or else they also replaced the anti-deisel solenoid. They then adjusted the idle to factory specs and it runs great.
I NEVER take my Wag to a shop but I was on my last nerve and they found it.

[woodybeone]

The anti-diesel idle solenoid is on the lower part of the throttle linkage. Long tube (2")with a shaft that extends from one end with screw adjustment on the other end.
Here is a link to a 2150 re-build and adjustment procedure:
2150 how to (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/mbaxter/2150how2.htm)

[leila]

I just went out to the GW and tried to test the EGR. I couldn't get the valve diaphragm to move at all (I may have not been pushing in the right place.) Anyway, is it possible the symptoms I have could be cause by a bad EGR. My mechanic can't figure out the problem - he says he has adjusted the carb as well as he knows how to. Any thoughts?
Also, I did the old start the car with the air cleaner assembly off to watch the butterfly test. Snapped shut & opened slowly as the motor warmed up. As she got warmer (maybe 3-4 minutes) the idle stated to go down then she crapped out. Restarted her & she stalled out after about 20 seconds. After a couple of minutes I went out an restarted her (high idle kept her going) & I started to shift her through D,N,R,D, etc. In R & D she idled fine (good voltage, etc.) but in N & P she started to go low again. Just a few observations. This problem is really starting to irk me.
I got a quote from a reputable parts house (using the P/N supplied in the tech. sect on anti-knock stuff) for $75. I guess that is better than what the dealer would want for it. If anyone knows if that P/N is wrong please ley me know before I slam down my $$$$$. You guys are the greatest. Thanks for all of your help.

[ February 18, 2002: Message edited by: leila ]</p>

[reddog]

Your Problem could be the EGR but the carb would be the place to start. The anti-diesel solenoid is easy to check. It is on the drivers side of the carb and has 1 wire going to it. Pull off your air cleaner and have someone turn the key from off to on while another person holds the throttle open and watches the solenoid. You should see the solenoid plunger go in and out 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch or so. The purpose of the solenoid is so when the engine is shut off the throttle plate in the carb shuts all the way to help prevent run-on (or "dieseling") which can happen with a lean mixture and the emission equipment. The plunger on the solenoid acts as the idle stop with the engine running and the solenoid is the adjustment for the idle speed.

One check for the EGR is (do this with a cold engine as the EGR gets VERY hot) to manually activate the EGR diaphram. If you feel around on the bottom of the EGR valve you should find access to reach a finger into the valve and manually press the diaphram up. This should open the EGR valve. If you do this while the engine is at idle then you should hear/feel a distinct change in idle quality (for the worse). If there is no change that could mean that the EGR passage is clogged with carbon build-up, the EGR is jammed open or the vacuum control system that activates the EGR is not functioning as it should and the EGR is being opened at idle.

As for the EGR part number what number are you looking for. Part number 83100071 (which is the anti-knock kit) is only available from the dealer I believe and may well be hard to get. I got one from the dealer here in LA about 6 months ago and was told at that time that there were only a few left on the books. The EGR is a Delco/Rochestor part but I was never able to succesfully get a Chevy/GM part number cross referenced on the EGR itself.

Kimbroughs has good advice for ALL FSJs especially the later models. REPLACE ALL THE VACUUM LINES!! It is somewhat a PITA to do but simple. Just get a selection of correct size lines and replace them ONE by ONE. It should be done to every FSJ IMHO. Can save you alot of headaches if not now then down the road.

Kerry

[leila]

All,
thanks for the great advice. I will try to locate the idle (anti-diesel) solenoid. I have read all of your descriptions but I must admit that I am pretty clueless when it comes to carbs. I know the solenoid is on the drivers side with one wire coming out of it. Is it that thing with the black rubber cover on the downward side (angled toward the front of the vehicle) thing? Or is it something else?

Thanks

[NYC]

Reddog...

You may be able to help me too (sorry to hijack your thread Leila). I've got an '88 that has a new motor, rebuilt carb', plugs, wires... and it knocks like hell over 60 mph and while pulling a load. Actually, when pulling a trailer, I have to slow down to 35 mph to keep it from knocking (I lost one 360 already that way).

You mentioned a part number - 83100071. Is that the EGR valve or the anti-knock kit that includes the EGR vavlve. I got a quote at the dealership for $76. That seemed low, considering I got a quote of $72 for the EGR valve from NAPA.

I'm planning on doing the TFI upgrade but thinking the EGR maybe part of the problem.

Any thoughts?