Paint Quote - What do you think?

[jMedia]

I have been gone for a while, an unfortunately busy summer so i didnt get any where near the amount of work I wanted done on my Wag. Last couple days tho I hunkered down (and my fam helped too) and we stripped the wag of paint. Now its time to get it painted and I talked to a seemingly honest and nice guy who knows what he is doing. Since its bare metal, I would go sealer, primer, base and then clear. He called the paint shop while I was there, said the materials were going to be about 1300-1400 and total would be about ~2500 for the complete job.

I am not looking for a showroom car, but I also dont want a Maaco $300 job, especially since I'm on to bare metal. I like the idea of the sealer a lot.

What do you all think?

[babywag]

Sounds high for materials....shop around.

Does that include a warranty?

[jMedia]

I mean he says he guarantees his work so I'll ask next what that entails warranty wise. He also said 1400-1500 was kinda the higher end of a guesstimate for materials
His labor seems good priced tho

[Brizio]

Look a nice price considered that you have bare metal.

[Gurinski]

2500 sounds good, looking around I found a decent/good quality non-maaco paint job starts around $3,000.

[1jeep4me]

Holy cow man! I did Maaco cost me 567 dollars with some minor body work and flat black. it has lasted 10 years now in the hot texas sun and still looks just fine!

No way in heck would i spen that ind of oney for apaint job unless it was on something that needed a show car finish.

Nothing wrong with maaco.

[bg2pres]

I have my cherokee down to bare metal and apart. I just ordered new Urethane primer, sealer, paint and then clear...

Total 387.89

[jMedia]

I have my cherokee down to bare metal and apart. I just ordered new Urethane primer, sealer, paint and then clear...

Total 387.89

That seems really hard to believe....

[Gurinski]

Holy cow man! I did Maaco cost me 567 dollars with some minor body work and flat black. it has lasted 10 years now in the hot texas sun and still looks just fine!

No way in heck would i spen that ind of oney for apaint job unless it was on something that needed a show car finish.

Nothing wrong with maaco.

x2 I jumped the gun on my post $3000 included body work also

[250psd]

Overall price doesn't seem bad but... the material cost?

[Ghinmi]

I can believe the material cost. Sealer, primer, paint, clear, sandpaper, etc. add up quick. I had about that into each of my cars, that's just the way it is anymore. I'd say $2500 complete is a pretty good deal for a decent paint job. Good luck and we're going to need pics when it's done. :thumbsup:

[Tigger4X]

I have been gone for a while, an unfortunately busy summer so i didnt get any where near the amount of work I wanted done on my Wag. Last couple days tho I hunkered down (and my fam helped too) and we stripped the wag of paint. Now its time to get it painted and I talked to a seemingly honest and nice guy who knows what he is doing. Since its bare metal, I would go sealer, primer, base and then clear. He called the paint shop while I was there, said the materials were going to be about 1300-1400 and total would be about ~2500 for the complete job.

I am not looking for a showroom car, but I also dont want a Maaco $300 job, especially since I'm on to bare metal. I like the idea of the sealer a lot.

What do you all think?


$13-1400 for materials sounds kinda high ... just like the guy on the phone might have been from the paint fumes. :rolleyes: There are plenty of shops that you can walk into and get the supplies yourself so get to googlin' and check it out yourself. $1000+ for the labor sounds a bit odd too. From your description it doesnt sounds like he has any body work to do and you did all the prep work for him. I mean he doesnt have to strip it down or sand through all the paint. Yeah, it'll need a scuff to get off any potential surface rust or contaminants before he hits it with the first coat of sealer but thats really nothing in comparison. What kind of sealer is he talking about? What brand of paint products is he using? I would shop around for the supplies yourself and also get a couple or three more estimates with the vehicle with you. Dont tell em you have gotten other quotes unless you are confident you can impress that you are looking for good work and are shopping quality but price will be a precedent as well.

[gladman]

3K sounds about right for a solid, professional job.

[wheresdawaves]

I wouldn't let anyone paint my car unless I was sure they did excellent work and garonteed no rust would build below the paint. I know too many people that spent alot of money supposedly getting the best job they could get only to have huge chips, rust bubbles and cracking all over the car within 2yrs. The materials for these rigs if it's comparable to the oem paint shouldn't cost more than 600$ with all tape and extras. They weren't painted with high gloss laquer. He probably told you the materials were so much because he doesn't want to say his labor is worth 2000$.

[Seemer]

I just repainted my nasty, cloudy roof for $52 using single stage paint poured into glass bottles with aerosol screw on spray cans...and it looks pretty crappy!!! he he. But much better than before :p

[fulsizjeep]

I wouldn't let anyone paint my car unless I was sure they did excellent work and garonteed no rust would build below the paint. I know too many people that spent alot of money supposedly getting the best job they could get only to have huge chips, rust bubbles and cracking all over the car within 2yrs. The materials for these rigs if it's comparable to the oem paint shouldn't cost more than 600$ with all tape and extras. They weren't painted with high gloss laquer. He probably told you the materials were so much because he doesn't want to say his labor is worth 2000$.I would like to hear about any FSJ owner that got a warranty like that. It would be priceless! We are talking about 20 to 48 year old Jeeps that continually have rust potential.

[babywag]

I would like to hear about any FSJ owner that got a warranty like that. It would be priceless! We are talking about 20 to 48 year old Jeeps that continually have rust potential.

Even Maaco will provide a warranty...:cool: you just have to pay for how long you want it to last.
Not that I would let them touch any vehicle I cared about it's appearance.

Any reputable body shop will give you a warranty, regardless of the vehicle type or age.
If a shop won't give you a warranty for a $2500 paint job GO SOMEWHERE ELSE.

If the vehicle was prepped and painted properly shouldn't need the warranty, but life happens.

My neighbor used an outfit called one day paint, they gave him a 3 year warranty for $450 out the door.
This was on his 80's chevy work truck, and it actually turned out pretty darn nice.

[fulsizjeep]

yep, just like an insurance policy and just as reliable! :p

[will e]

It sounds reasonable to me. I paid about that amount but I had a lot of body work done, two tone paint and part of the interior painted. I also had small holes for the factory roof rack filled (not bondo) and some holes in the front filled so my rhino grill install would look clean. I pulled off all of the trim.

I didn't need sealer nor did I clear coat.

Warranty will be interesting for you. Maybe for fading for some chipping but if rust start up I can't see him being able to cover that. my 2 cents.

Bottom line is I don't think you are getting ripped off and you probably are not getting the 'best deal ever' on a paint job either.

[newtojeeps]

Macco wanted 950 to paint my Cherokee. No body work no warranty :eek:

[64 wagoneer]

I believe as of Jan 2009 California has regulations for the VOC levels that can be sprayed. Most body shops have switched to the waterborne paints and may cost more in California than other states that do not need to comply. Most shops will multiply the labor to paint the vehicle 25-30 hours at about $30.00 per hour for materials. Good luck.

[badaboom]

Change of color, door jams and other such things can cost more typically also

[TwistMyRide]

Was browsing car forums and found this post :) figured id drop in and give my $0.02 as a professional painter. Share my thoughts and ideas and give you guys a different perspective on things. So where to begin... lol


Holy cow man! I did Maaco cost me 567 dollars with some minor body work and flat black. it has lasted 10 years now in the hot texas sun and still looks just fine!

No way in heck would i spen that ind of oney for apaint job unless it was on something that needed a show car finish.

Nothing wrong with maaco.
Thats a bold statement lol I wonder what the precise definition of "lasted" is in this example. If you mean your car hasnt decayed from rust in the last 10 years? Id believe that. But i would be hard pressed to believe that paint job isnt need of serious overhaul... lol even factory paint looks like crap after 10 years. difference is, factory paint will just need a good cut and buff to fix it lol maaco is crap.... reason 1026 is they use a scotch brite to scuff your car for "adhesion" as a means of sanding it... all that stands between your new paint and the old paint, is some scratches made by a product similar to what you use to wash dishes.... not good.

I have my cherokee down to bare metal and apart. I just ordered new Urethane primer, sealer, paint and then clear...

Total 387.89
Were you using Krylon? Cheapest clear I can get my hands on is about $120 for a gallon setup. Paint starts at $130 per gallon, and thats the cheapest option available. Thats not even including reducer. add another $80 for that. Urethane primer is actually one of the most expensive high build primers available. Starting price for a true urethane filler primer is about $200 a gallon. Sealer is about the same. But that depends on what kind of sealer you are using, i mean for direct to metal, the best choice is an epoxy. runs about $300 a gallon for the best available. cheaper in most places, but thats what i pay for it. cheap sealers can be used, but those are single component... no hardener... its basically spray can sealer, without the spray can. Shouldnt use that on a whole car. So my question is, for under $400 for paint, clear, sealer, primer, etc... what products were you using?


That seems really hard to believe....
my sentiments exactly lol


$1000+ for the labor sounds a bit odd too. From your description it doesnt sounds like he has any body work to do and you did all the prep work for him. I mean he doesnt have to strip it down or sand through all the paint. Yeah, it'll need a scuff to get off any potential surface rust or contaminants before he hits it with the first coat of sealer but thats really nothing in comparison.

Bare metal offers many benefits. but unfortunately, ease of work isnt one of them. even if it was media blasted instead of stripped, you still have a lot of work to do getting the surface rust off the car as well as the contaminants left from the chemicals. You cant spray water on it, and when you sand it, bare metal doesnt offer the insulation of the film build to ease sanding. if you go too hard or too fast, you will warp the metal. much more delicate work. so to use the word "scuff" when describing a bare metal prep, would be sort of understating it. It all depends on the condition of the car.


I wouldn't let anyone paint my car unless I was sure they did excellent work and garonteed no rust would build below the paint. I know too many people that spent alot of money supposedly getting the best job they could get only to have huge chips, rust bubbles and cracking all over the car within 2yrs. The materials for these rigs if it's comparable to the oem paint shouldn't cost more than 600$ with all tape and extras. They weren't painted with high gloss laquer. He probably told you the materials were so much because he doesn't want to say his labor is worth 2000$.

Guarantee of no rust means cutting out all the rust that is there and fabricating new pieces. A factory respray at a collision shop is over $5000 with no body work. Rust is expensive to fix permanently. And the bottom line is, while you may get another 40 or 50 years out of it after you spend $50,000 it will still rust again if you drive it. the car rusted once, it will rust again. and in those same spots. like the characteristic fender and quarter panel rust spots in old chevys. its just how they age. so to guarantee rust wont pop up if you didnt get rid of the rust to begin with.... lol well, id be suspicious if a person even offered a warranty on that. oh, and lacquer is a dinosaur... hasnt been used since i think the 50s? and since you referred to it as high gloss lacquer im assuming you arent talking about the more recent acrylic lacquers that are 2 stage with a urethane clear... because original high gloss lacquer was single stage :)


If a shop won't give you a warranty for a $2500 paint job GO SOMEWHERE ELSE.

If the vehicle was prepped and painted properly shouldn't need the warranty, but life happens.

My neighbor used an outfit called one day paint, they gave him a 3 year warranty for $450 out the door.

$2500 isnt a lot of money even to paint a small car like a camaro... its really not...with high quality paints approaching $1000 a gallon and primers and sealers being in the $150 - $300 range per gallon each, $2500 is what many people would spend just on materials to do the job right. $2500 in todays market is considered "economy". even $5000 is economy if the vehicle is old and needs lots of refurbishing to bring it back to life. to paint a miata is much less of a task than painting a suburban... lol if i charged $3000 to paint a miata, it would be the mona lisa of miatas... if i charged $3000 to paint a suburban, hed be lucky if i primed it...


believe as of Jan 2009 California has regulations for the VOC levels that can be sprayed. Most body shops have switched to the waterborne paints and may cost more in California than other states that do not need to comply. Most shops will multiply the labor to paint the vehicle 25-30 hours at about $30.00 per hour for materials.

Yes CA mandated 3.5 VOC/gal sprayable but there are still a few solvent options like Nason and Omni that are good for overall jobs. but for color matching and blending, waterborne is really all we have. and yes, shooting waterborne is a pain in the @$$!!! takes decades to dry and if u shoot it too soon, the whole thing goes haywire on you.



The biggest concern in this industry is price. For those who are seeking quality and longevity, price isnt much of a concern. but with the economy the way it is, most people looking for paint want it to be "good enough"... but good enough for what? good enough to sell? keep? store? haul trash with? the end result of your paint job is going to be what you decide to do to it. you just want to sell it? scuff it up, mask it, and blast it with single stage paint. you want it to last a long time? sand it instead of scuffing it. You want it to be more level? Fill prime it and block it down once or twice. You want it to have an unsanded surface before painting? use a urethane primer sealer. It all depends on what you want to do with your vehicle and how much it means to you. I wouldnt spend $1000 on paint for an 88 honda.... but id spend $50,000 restoring a 1969 Camaro SS...

if anyone has any paint related questions id be happy to assist with answers :) im at the forums disposal :D

[1jeep4me]

Twistmyride:

Thanks for the two pennys.

In as much as I can appreciate the pennys. The proof is in the pudding, or pictures, or actually having the vehicles and driving them on a daily basis and offering them up for review.

I do have them, I have posted pictures and they are open to scrutiny.

Your comments on MAACO are so far off I have to say they are untrue and infact will challenge you to prove up your statements.

I infact have a 1970 waggy in MAACO and have IN FACT provided photos and detail of its process. I pick it up today. Sanding with scotch bright? Unbeleivable you would actually say this when i have "IN FACT" just posted pics of my MAACO paint job in its process. I actually visited the shop every day and have hundreds of pics. NOT a single one showing a guy using scotch bright to scuff it up for adhesion.


I am certain the members here will and can look past your lauding and justification for outrageous prices for paint and body repair.

Maybe your reply you can leave the sarcasm at home and facts on the page.

I have both my vehicles here in Dallas Texas and will offer to any board member the scrutiny of either. Both painted by MAACO.

[61Hawk]

Wow!!! Prices are about double in CA what they are here in SC. I took my truck to the top collision center in Columbia just to see what the high end would be to repaint (same color) my '89 GW... I as quoted $3000. Now this is places that the local Mercedes and Lexus dealerships recommend for collision work. This includes any minor body work (parking lot dings) and they use all Dupont products. The only "down side" was that since this was an insurance job it would get put on the back burner but they said they would be done within 30 days.



Was browsing car forums and found this post :) figured id drop in and give my $0.02 as a professional painter. Share my thoughts and ideas and give you guys a different perspective on things. So where to begin... lol


Thats a bold statement lol I wonder what the precise definition of "lasted" is in this example. If you mean your car hasnt decayed from rust in the last 10 years? Id believe that. But i would be hard pressed to believe that paint job isnt need of serious overhaul... lol even factory paint looks like crap after 10 years. difference is, factory paint will just need a good cut and buff to fix it lol maaco is crap.... reason 1026 is they use a scotch brite to scuff your car for "adhesion" as a means of sanding it... all that stands between your new paint and the old paint, is some scratches made by a product similar to what you use to wash dishes.... not good.


Were you using Krylon? Cheapest clear I can get my hands on is about $120 for a gallon setup. Paint starts at $130 per gallon, and thats the cheapest option available. Thats not even including reducer. add another $80 for that. Urethane primer is actually one of the most expensive high build primers available. Starting price for a true urethane filler primer is about $200 a gallon. Sealer is about the same. But that depends on what kind of sealer you are using, i mean for direct to metal, the best choice is an epoxy. runs about $300 a gallon for the best available. cheaper in most places, but thats what i pay for it. cheap sealers can be used, but those are single component... no hardener... its basically spray can sealer, without the spray can. Shouldnt use that on a whole car. So my question is, for under $400 for paint, clear, sealer, primer, etc... what products were you using?


my sentiments exactly lol




Bare metal offers many benefits. but unfortunately, ease of work isnt one of them. even if it was media blasted instead of stripped, you still have a lot of work to do getting the surface rust off the car as well as the contaminants left from the chemicals. You cant spray water on it, and when you sand it, bare metal doesnt offer the insulation of the film build to ease sanding. if you go too hard or too fast, you will warp the metal. much more delicate work. so to use the word "scuff" when describing a bare metal prep, would be sort of understating it. It all depends on the condition of the car.


Guarantee of no rust means cutting out all the rust that is there and fabricating new pieces. A factory respray at a collision shop is over $5000 with no body work. Rust is expensive to fix permanently. And the bottom line is, while you may get another 40 or 50 years out of it after you spend $50,000 it will still rust again if you drive it. the car rusted once, it will rust again. and in those same spots. like the characteristic fender and quarter panel rust spots in old chevys. its just how they age. so to guarantee rust wont pop up if you didnt get rid of the rust to begin with.... lol well, id be suspicious if a person even offered a warranty on that. oh, and lacquer is a dinosaur... hasnt been used since i think the 50s? and since you referred to it as high gloss lacquer im assuming you arent talking about the more recent acrylic lacquers that are 2 stage with a urethane clear... because original high gloss lacquer was single stage :)




$2500 isnt a lot of money even to paint a small car like a camaro... its really not...with high quality paints approaching $1000 a gallon and primers and sealers being in the $150 - $300 range per gallon each, $2500 is what many people would spend just on materials to do the job right. $2500 in todays market is considered "economy". even $5000 is economy if the vehicle is old and needs lots of refurbishing to bring it back to life. to paint a miata is much less of a task than painting a suburban... lol if i charged $3000 to paint a miata, it would be the mona lisa of miatas... if i charged $3000 to paint a suburban, hed be lucky if i primed it...




Yes CA mandated 3.5 VOC/gal sprayable but there are still a few solvent options like Nason and Omni that are good for overall jobs. but for color matching and blending, waterborne is really all we have. and yes, shooting waterborne is a pain in the @$$!!! takes decades to dry and if u shoot it too soon, the whole thing goes haywire on you.



The biggest concern in this industry is price. For those who are seeking quality and longevity, price isnt much of a concern. but with the economy the way it is, most people looking for paint want it to be "good enough"... but good enough for what? good enough to sell? keep? store? haul trash with? the end result of your paint job is going to be what you decide to do to it. you just want to sell it? scuff it up, mask it, and blast it with single stage paint. you want it to last a long time? sand it instead of scuffing it. You want it to be more level? Fill prime it and block it down once or twice. You want it to have an unsanded surface before painting? use a urethane primer sealer. It all depends on what you want to do with your vehicle and how much it means to you. I wouldnt spend $1000 on paint for an 88 honda.... but id spend $50,000 restoring a 1969 Camaro SS...

if anyone has any paint related questions id be happy to assist with answers :) im at the forums disposal :D

[TwistMyRide]

well i have friends in the business, and know for a fact that on those economy jobs they sell, thats what they do. maybe not where you are at, but in order to justify painting a car for $300 they cut cost by using scotch brites as a finish sand. scotch brites have their place in the automotive industry. i use them all the time. but not as a sole means of sanding. Ive been doing this too long and seen too many paint jobs come to my shop with the paint peeling from a bunk maaco job and i get to stare at the old paint underneath, with the clearcoat still shiny like it was when they drove it in for paint.... you are more than welcome to your opinion, but dont expect to impose it on me. ive been doing this too long. sandpaper alone costs $40 a roll. if you can think of how a business could put quality ingredients on a car, pay their rent, pay their employees, and turn a profit on a $300 paint job.....by all means let me know... yes maaco can turn out a nice paint job, but they charge you for it. when you walk in, the first thing their sales reps try to do is get you on board for one of their bigger plans. the $300 special is known in the industry as a "scuff n shoot"... scuff it with a pad, and shoot it... so while you may not have seen their devious methods in action, i wouldnt quite rule it out of possibility because your "extensive experience of having 2 cars painted there makes you an expert"

but, to save the situation, i do apologize if my sarcasm was too much for you to handle...

edited to add: i just realized something.... if they have been working on your vehicle for more than one day, and long enough for you to actually take "hundreds" of pictures....... id say we can pretty much rule out any possibility of you paying for their economy services... if you have a friend there thats throwing you deals out the back door... well... thats another topic all together. but as for their base plan, your lucky if they dont paint your tires...

[TwistMyRide]

Wow!!! Prices are about double in CA what they are here in SC. I took my truck to the top collision center in Columbia just to see what the high end would be to repaint (same color) my '89 GW... I as quoted $3000. Now this is places that the local Mercedes and Lexus dealerships recommend for collision work. This includes any minor body work (parking lot dings) and they use all Dupont products. The only "down side" was that since this was an insurance job it would get put on the back burner but they said they would be done within 30 days.

Thats strange... you would think being an insurance job (top dollar and guaranteed payment) they would crank that out as quick as possible. But yes california is ridiculous. i mean out here u cant find a good apartment for under $1200 a month... i know people in other places in the country who own houses and pay mortgages in the $600 range... its insanity... but thats how pricing goes out here. I do BMW and mercedes jobs as well, mostly touch ups and panel blends. i can do a full repaint that cheap, but id have to ask myself, why? i mean an overall isnt all that bad, but doing jambs and body work and all that, and if the vehicle needs sealer and filler primer, its all more work. Repainting a car that has just faded paint is easy and relatively inexpensive. giving a car a completely brand new finish from the ground up is a whole other beast lol

[1jeep4me]

Your are soapboxing and grandstanding.

Put up some evidence or proof, PLEASE produce a vehicle and owner testimony...........something besides verbal diatribe.

[TwistMyRide]

Your are soapboxing and grandstanding.

Put up some evidence or proof, PLEASE produce a vehicle and owner testimony...........something besides verbal diatribe.
Im not doing either. But someone here IS doing something... YOU are vigorously attempting to invalidate the automotive industry standard of paint. You are happy with a single stage paint job sprayed with cheap kelly moore paint at maaco for the price of a sleazy table dancer, so you feel like nothing out there could possibly be worth more than that. To you, spending $100,000 on custom paint is not only outlandish, but impossible to justify. For you, a can of spray paint is enough to "git-r-done" and anything else is just for showing off... well bud, let me enlighten you... some people... actually give a crap about whats on their vehicles.... because when you see the shimmer of xyrellic pearl, or the way the tones shift on a chameleon base, or the way candy buries the artwork beneath it... some people say it was money well spent... but because for whatever reason (and i personally think its because you just dont have any yourself) spending money on paint is just not feasible to you...

Im here, and other people are here, because what matters to us is not necessarily what matters to anyone else. Its called being unique. thats what custom paint is about. Im here looking to help those who actually give a crap about whats protecting their cars... not trade insults with someone who just plain and simple doesnt have any interest in fine auto finishes.

[1jeep4me]

It's an open board, justify without fact anything you like. Don't piss on my head and tell me it's raining

[66 Wag]

ive had a couple cars painted at maaco and i can say that even though it was cheap the paint jobs on both of the cars had to be re-painted because of the shotty workmanship. both cars had alot of orange peel and cracks, you might just have a good maaco were you are but the one near me is not a good place to get a car painted.

[TwistMyRide]

It's an open board, justify without fact anything you like. Don't piss on my head and tell me it's raining


i really dont like you... enough said. moving on.

[1jeep4me]

I think one of the different things to consider when painting is paint type versus oem.

For my 70 waggy my research showed the oem paint was enamel.
It knd of seems odd to put a real deep paint with clear coat on a car that never came with it. Kinda like a hooker wearing a white wedding dress to me.

[TwistMyRide]

ive had a couple cars painted at maaco and i can say that even though it was cheap the paint jobs on both of the cars had to be re-painted because of the shotty workmanship. both cars had alot of orange peel and cracks, you might just have a good maaco were you are but the one near me is not a good place to get a car painted.

Some maaco shops produce better work than others. it boils down to the employees. just like some mcdonalds have nasty burgers, and some dont. sometimes u get better burgers depending on what time of day u go. depends on whose working there. but as a whole, their paint is cheap, thin, and not designed to hold up well. Maaco has paint plans that range well over $1000 to start, and its a basecoat/clearcoat with urethane. their economy plans all have a crap enamel single stage. its like spraying krylon out of a good spray gun. looks better than a spray can, but has no benefit above it. orange peel is fixable, and u get it with every paint job. some more than others. but maaco orange peel isnt fixable. because their paint isnt buffable. not enough material on the car. In the automotive world, maaco is synonymous with crap... its just facts. earl scheib is much better if you can find one anymore. but still, its a cheap option to an expensive problem...

[TwistMyRide]

I think one of the different things to consider when painting is paint type versus oem.

For my 70 waggy my research showed the oem paint was enamel.
It knd of seems odd to put a real deep paint with clear coat on a car that never came with it. Kinda like a hooker wearing a white wedding dress to me.
well in 1970 they used single stages. clearcoats were designed for metallic and specialty paints like pearls and candies and didnt come out till the 80s. because they required a clear to look good. but enamel? i dunno... maybe acrylic enamel... i dont really know. and even today, single stage is the best way to go for solid colors if you arent concerned with show quality looks and longevity from fading. but clearcoat offers a lot of protection and the option to repair it easily without having to actually repaint. and it doesnt make your buffing wheels as nasty.

[1jeep4me]

I'm just saying the oem on the 70 waggy was an enamel paint blend of sorts. The advert of the 60's and 70's talked about poly blends, and other witch craft. Basically they are enamels with no clear coat , I'm not a pro but I do study original cars and the finishes they have.

My opinion is that stock restorations look silly and over done with paints modern paints , deep clear coats and perfect panels.

I have never seen an older original jeep with perfect panels or bodies. Hoods fenders and alike all seemed to have imperfections from welds and manufacture processes.

[TwistMyRide]

I'm just saying the oem on the 70 waggy was an enamel paint blend of sorts. The advert of the 60's and 70's talked about poly blends, and other witch craft. Basically they are enamels with no clear coat , I'm not a pro but I do study original cars and the finishes they have.

My opinion is that stock restorations look silly and over done with paints modern paints , deep clear coats and perfect panels.

I have never seen an older original jeep with perfect panels or bodies. Hoods fenders and alike all seemed to have imperfections from welds and manufacture processes.

Well "perfection" is very hard to achieve, and yes even new cars have imperfections but the welds should be pretty solid. if not, that doesnt say much for the manufacturer lol i mean goin back that far you cant really compare specimens to a brand new car of today, but the body should at least be straight.

And yes you are right, it is very hard to achieve the drab pastel look of a true classic finish. I use a single stage paint called "delfleet" which is PPG. its a VERY high quality paint that sprays like hot glue. very thick, very durable, and can be wet sanded down like a clearcoat to get rid of orange peel. Also, its very easy to repair. just sand the area down and recoat, wait a day, and buff it out and you wont be able to tell the difference. And since single stages naturally fade, even after a few weeks, the color brightness is similar to an older finish. very good stuff for single stages. But i do have to say, the jeep i just painted came out fantastic. Its definitely not what i would call a "factory restoration" of paint, but its pretty solid. looks very nice. it was basecoat/clearcoat and metallic baltic blue. The depth is fantastic. but being a late 80s car, it looks good with a metallic color. because late 80s cars had metallics. so it fits with it. And while a good quality metallic would look stellar on an old car, i too am a fan of solid colors. Especially orange. Nothing like a good solid orange on an old muscle car.

[bg2pres]

Eastwood paint. Maybe not the best, but better than Maaco.

Add it up, 2k paint, primer and clear...

If you are paying 300/gallon for clear, you are in New York or Los Angeles...

In Houston, the best clear on the market isn't $300/gallon...

If you want a good basic paint job and not putting 6 coats of everything, total cost with materials shouldn't be 1000. That includes body work materials too...

I just did my entire truck, ready for paint and we will see... Maybe wrong, but 1 gallon of each is PLENTY to match the factory paint job. If you are going for a custom car show paint job, well thats a different story, but not many on here need a 6k paint job for the Jeep.

[bg2pres]

Just to be clear!

My mother always told me "you can't buy taste" (thats taste in clothes, jewelry, etc...)

My father always told me "you can't buy intelligence"...

SO, moral of the story is, do your research. The average price is usually the best work. Price doesn't mean quality and price also doesn't mean cheap...

Guys who know what they are doing in the paint booth and on body work will be cheaper in cost than guys who don't have a clue and are padding their work.

Get references, list the products, make sure he stands behind his work and make sure he doesn't "over sell" you and if you are comfortable with the price, then let them go...

I am always wary of people who talk too much or people that sell you too hard.

Have fun with it! Don't make it a chore!

[bg2pres]

Oh yeah, by the way, my 1979 jeep is metallic and has clear

It was an acrylic enamel.

STRAIGHT from the factory...

[TwistMyRide]

If you are paying 300/gallon for clear, you are in New York or Los Angeles...
.

so you are saying only 2 cities in the world have clearcoat ranging above $300 a gallon?

okay...

http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=PPG+VC5200-HG

thats for a half gallon.... and not even including the hardener.... which by the way is another $150 or so per "half gallon".... and trust me when i say that site is a good deal cheaper than my local supplier... but i detest ordering products by mail... too unreliable.

If you want a good basic paint job and not putting 6 coats of everything, total cost with materials shouldn't be 1000. That includes body work materials too...

So that means a Miata should use the same amount of materials as an F-350 quad cab with a camper shell on the back, right?

and if you shot 6 coats of ANYTHING without sanding it all back off again (I.E. filler primer) you are going to have some major issues... average is 3 coats of base with a control coat for metallics and pearls, and 2 coats of clear, 3 if you are using cheap clear and want to do some heavy wet sanding and buffing. Keeping in mind that transfer efficiency even with HVLP at best is rated at 68%.... and its still always better to up the pressure a bit more to get better atomization but at the cost of product. Doing door jambs, under the hood, trunks, etc... all cost materials... and since you cant just whip out some equation from the tech sheet info like "1 gallon covers x amount of sq ft so this car is y amount of sq feet so i need 3 gallons" no.... you get more than you need so you dont risk running out mid job. This last job i had a little more than a pint left over. which is great. i can give my customer some touch up paint, and i know that even though it was running thin, i did have a little extra if something went haywire. god forbid something happens.... you shoot too soon between coats and the whole film wrinkles... then what?



I just did my entire truck, ready for paint and we will see... Maybe wrong, but 1 gallon of each is PLENTY to match the factory paint job. If you are going for a custom car show paint job, well thats a different story, but not many on here need a 6k paint job for the Jeep

1 gallon of each will suffice for most cars. a truck might go well with 1 gallon if you dont do the inside of the bed and door jambs. but it will be running VERY thin... more than likely you will run out and have to purchase at least another quart. and yes 6k is very steep for a paintjob. for that kind of money you are going show quality. might not be fully restored, but outside will be pristine. and no, most people with jeeps of any variety wont be paying that kind of money unless they have more of it than they can spend, and are a collector of some sort. but $3 - $4,000 is definitely reasonable if you are giving the vehicle a completely new finish.(I.E. bare metal to clear coat... primers, surfacers, fillers, and sealers all cost money, and time to shoot, prepare, and sand down.)

[TwistMyRide]

Oh yeah, by the way, my 1979 jeep is metallic and has clear

It was an acrylic enamel.

STRAIGHT from the factory...

well considering i wasnt even born when that car was made, i couldnt honestly tell you what it came with from the factory. it very well may be. i know they came out right around the 80s. maybe the late 70s they started creeping up into the market. I dont profess to be an expert at paints history, but i am an expert in my trade. Truth is though, unless you purchased it new in 1978, which is totally possible, theres really no way to tell if the finish is factory. If it is factory metallic, it definitely wouldnt be single stage.